Paper clay works the exact same, is cheaper in most cases, and is incredibly strong and is hard to break/chip, especially when gessoes, painted and then sealed. This exact tutorial still applies to it though, just a material change Thanks for making this!
The pauldrons cost about $25 to make. A 2lb bucket of Model Magic will run between $16-$20, 3 different kinds of craft paint (about $1.25 each), and sandpaper ($1.50 at the dollar store).
I have another question. The piece I'm creating is actually just a leather bracer being modified with Model Magic to create an armour plate for the arm and I've just thought; would I have to cover the entire thing with the Model Magic or would it stick to the the bracer as it dries? Also, would I need to create an under-structure for this like you did in this tutorial?
Model Magic will not stick to anything on it's own. Once it's dry, I've had success attaching it to other objects using a generous amount of hot glue or superglue. But note, if the piece is bumped hard enough, the clay that has the glue attached to it will break away from the rest of the piece.
If you are adding details to a bracer, I would add a thin layer of thermo-plastic (or similar) to the inside for stability. It will keep the piece from bending and cracking, and that will also keep it from breaking away from the bracer.
Amazing! I never even knew this stuff existed! Fantastic tutorial! I'm trying to make a piece of forearm armor for a cosplay and this has helped a lot! Thanks for sharing!
How did you get the final image around your neck without breaking it? I'm thinking of making a breast plate out of crayola model magic, and would love your advice!
The collar was pretty thick due to all of the details so it was able to flex slightly when I put it on. Not very much, but just enough to get it around my neck. If you make it thick, and are extremely careful with it, it may be possible to make a chest piece out of it.
I just linked this above, but this cosplay's armor set might also be relevant to your interests - forums.henshinjustice.com/show…
So sorry for the incredibly late reply; I fell off the internet for a while. I would not recommend Model Magic for an entire armor set, although I've seen it done. Some people coat the piece with resin to give it strength since even thick pieces can be subject to cracking. This could be an option if you'd like to go that route. Otherwise, be very careful with how it's worn and stored.
Super glad the tutorial was helpful to you!
Just found the cosplay I was thinking of- this girl made Priss from Bubblegum Crisis completely out of Model Magic: forums.henshinjustice.com/show…
Thank you so much for the reply! This is my first time making a full set of armor as i have only made chest plates and head pieces before so this was a lot of help because i cant afford things like worbla Thanks!!
I used to use model magic a lot when I was first starting, but I always had issues with broken props, It's been a few years and I'm starting to rethink my model magic ban. I wonder, though, if anyone has come up with a solution to how fragile it is...
So I've made armor and props with crayola before, but is there anything you can do to prevent it from falling apart when wet or sweaty? I even put on paint/primer and it didn't last.
That is an excellent question. I've never tried re-wetting model magic after it's fully dry, but considering how fragile it is, I'm not surprised it would fall apart. I know Akuriko (akuriko.deviantart.com/) created her armor for Zelda out of model magic and then covered it with resin. While I haven't tried it myself, it could be a great way to reinforce it and seal it from moisture.
GREAT JOB! I've been wanting to do a chase plate for an Asuka cosplay . I have cute accessories from www.cosplaysushi.com that'll suite the creative reveal.
For your last photo, I would love to see how you make the shape of the armor close fitting like that, I am working on my cosplay of Vayne from league and this is just a wonderful tutorial! I am doing her aristocrat skin.
I use white school glue ("Elmer's glue"), just the cheap stuff they sell at most stores for kid's crafts. I brush it on the Model Magic straight from the bottle. If it's too thick or sticky, I'll pour some of the glue into a cup and thin it with water. I usually use 2 parts glue to 1 part water if this happens. The model magic will dry the same, it just might need an extra coat since the first coat was thinner.
Did you leave the understructure in place and just completely cover it with the model magic? I know you did with the smaller pieces, but I couldn't quite tell if you did that with the larger piece or not.
For the larger pieces, I took the understructure out because it was thick enough to hold it's form. I also found that if I didn't take it out, the cardboard would absorb the moisture and cause the MM underneath to stay wet longer. With the outside drying faster than the inside, large cracks would appear all over the piece. Although if some cracks occur, it's possible to fill them in with more MM once the rest of the piece is thoroughly dry.
You're very welcome! Model Magic is tough to work with so I thought this would make it less intimidating to people. Just like any building material, it has it's limitations and advantages. If you have any questions, just let me know!
Absolutely! It seemed like a more viable option for me than Worbla (I just don't have the proper space or supplies to work with it), and while I have some craft foam, it just doesn't seem sturdy enough for busier cons and tournaments
I have a smaller townhouse so I know what it's like to be limited on space while trying not to destroy counter tops, sinks, etc., lol. I got to work with Worbla with my latest project and found it to be a lot cleaner to work with than other building materials. Once I get settled again, I'm going to make tutorial demonstrating some shortcuts I came up while using it. I don't it will replace Model Magic for all applications but it does have some serious potential.
Yeah, I'm in a one bedroom apartment as it is I'm sure my husband wouldn't be too thrilled of the entire place becoming a work zone. He already lost the coffee table and living room area I look forward to seeing a Worbla tut. Should be nice to see how it works once I can afford it!
Thanks for the feedback! I completely agree with you- every costume is different so having an array of methods is great when trying to find one that works.
More from Xero-Cosplay 
If you are adding details to a bracer, I would add a thin layer of thermo-plastic (or similar) to the inside for stability. It will keep the piece from bending and cracking, and that will also keep it from breaking away from the bracer.
I just linked this above, but this cosplay's armor set might also be relevant to your interests - forums.henshinjustice.com/show…
Super glad the tutorial was helpful to you!
Just found the cosplay I was thinking of- this girl made Priss from Bubblegum Crisis completely out of Model Magic:
forums.henshinjustice.com/show…