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Fiber Reinforced Plastic Armor Tutorial
By Wilkowen   |   Watch
116 13 7K (2 Today)
Published: April 4, 2013
© 2013 - 2019 Wilkowen
This is a simple tutorial illustrating my favorite technique for cosplay armor and props. The example shown here is an armor design from Twilight Princess, basic plate armor consisting of simple curves and raised design elements.
Image size
6075x8280px 23.03 MB
IMAGE DETAILS
Make
Canon
Model
Canon PowerShot A2300
Shutter Speed
1/20 second
Aperture
F/2.8
Focal Length
5 mm
ISO Speed
500
Date Taken
Oct 14, 2012, 2:36:27 PM
Software
Adobe Photoshop CS5 Windows
Sensor Size
8mm
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Comments (10)
Sageoftwilight56's avatar
Sageoftwilight56|Hobbyist Digital Artist
Really cool tutorial, thanks!


Also, That cat is precioussss
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WhiteDemon19's avatar
WhiteDemon19|Hobbyist General Artist
THERE IS A CAT!!!!!Bunny Emoji-42 (Awww) [V2]  on the 1st picture 
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Momijizukamori's avatar
Interesting idea! I hadn't thought of using polyester resin with materials other than fiberglass.

One note, though - polyester resin and body filler should be used with a respirator, as they give off toxic vapors. You're probably fine once or twice, but using it for long periods of time or repeated exposure can cause neurological damage.
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Wilkowen's avatar
I think that a lot of the concern about using these chemicals at home comes from the misconception that the same exposure hazards found in industrial applications also apply to DIY projects.  Even so, I will probably remove the statement that a respirator is not needed for this small project, and just let folks decide for themselves.
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Momijizukamori's avatar
True - a lot of stuff depends on degree of exposure (ie, frequent for industrial uses, more variable for people doing DIY stuff - I know I didn't have what would qualify as 'proper ventilation' when I did resin work, though). In general it's probably better to err on the side of caution - and respirator filters are the only thing that'll block out how awful the resin smells *g*
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Wilkowen's avatar
I have used 72 and 72F (fusible) and both work well. If you look closely at the fusible, you will see that the adhesive is not a continuous layer, but lots of tiny dots. There is still space for the resin to work its way in.
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Celyddon's avatar
Celyddon|Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Huh. I have a question. Would this work with fusible interfacing? I know that the fusibles already have resin fabricated into them, so not sure how that would affect the absorption of the fiberglass resin. I have an entire bolt of the stuff I'd love to requisition for fiberglassing, if it works.
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Wilkowen's avatar
I have used 72 and 72F (fusible) and both work well. If you look closely at the fusible, you will see that the adhesive is not a continuous layer, but lots of tiny dots. There is still space for the resin to work its way in.
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Celyddon's avatar
Celyddon|Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Sweet! I've cut four layers' worth of the stuff to try out on Friday. Crossing my fingers and hope it works well. I'm running out of time. :(
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Wilkowen's avatar
Just thought I'd mention that if you are substituting interfacing for glass cloth to go over a separate base, you'd want the interfacing to be a similar weight as the cloth. 72 is heavy stuff that best serves as BOTH the base and the composite (such as in the above tutorial). Hope that makes sense.
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