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So how about some more detailed shading? Let’s look at this Imperial Soldier as an example.
Where do we want shadows? Let’s put in some ground rules.
1. Determine where the light is coming from. A direct forward light source might be the easiest.
2. Based on that, what would cast a shadow?
3. To give a sense of depth, parts that would be further away from the viewer should be darker. In this case, that generally means putting shadows fairly symmetrically around the center line of the design.
4. If possible, try to AVOID masking. It slows down Heromachine and is generally annoying and time-consuming. If you can, hide the unnecessary parts of the shading Pattern behind some other object.
Look at those shadows now.
The headpiece curves away from the viewer, so put shadows on both sides of it. The back part of the headpiece is the opposite: Its sides are closer to the viewer. Also, the Soldier’s head casts a shadow on it. So, put a shadow in the middle of it and hide the rest behind the Soldier’s head. The face curves away from the viewer, so put shadows on both sides.
The headpiece casts a shadow on the helm. The helm casts shadows on the eyes. The nosepiece casts a shadow on the nose. The nose casts a shadow on the upper lip. The chin casts a shadow on the neck. The lower part of the headpiece casts a shadow on the very bottom part of the headpiece.
NOTE: Not all of those shadows are Masked on! They are mostly hidden behind other items. This really is an important trick to keep Heromachine running fast and for your sanity!
Now look at these highlights. They are similar to shadows but use White instead of Black.
These are meant for a gleaming metal look. As a general look, highlights for metal should be long and narrow and placed on long, uniform parts of a metal item.
I don’t have any terribly specific rules for this, you’ll have to figure things out for yourself. Please, experiment and become better than me at it so you can teach me how to do this properly.
Where do we want shadows? Let’s put in some ground rules.
1. Determine where the light is coming from. A direct forward light source might be the easiest.
2. Based on that, what would cast a shadow?
3. To give a sense of depth, parts that would be further away from the viewer should be darker. In this case, that generally means putting shadows fairly symmetrically around the center line of the design.
4. If possible, try to AVOID masking. It slows down Heromachine and is generally annoying and time-consuming. If you can, hide the unnecessary parts of the shading Pattern behind some other object.
Look at those shadows now.
The headpiece curves away from the viewer, so put shadows on both sides of it. The back part of the headpiece is the opposite: Its sides are closer to the viewer. Also, the Soldier’s head casts a shadow on it. So, put a shadow in the middle of it and hide the rest behind the Soldier’s head. The face curves away from the viewer, so put shadows on both sides.
The headpiece casts a shadow on the helm. The helm casts shadows on the eyes. The nosepiece casts a shadow on the nose. The nose casts a shadow on the upper lip. The chin casts a shadow on the neck. The lower part of the headpiece casts a shadow on the very bottom part of the headpiece.
NOTE: Not all of those shadows are Masked on! They are mostly hidden behind other items. This really is an important trick to keep Heromachine running fast and for your sanity!
Now look at these highlights. They are similar to shadows but use White instead of Black.
These are meant for a gleaming metal look. As a general look, highlights for metal should be long and narrow and placed on long, uniform parts of a metal item.
I don’t have any terribly specific rules for this, you’ll have to figure things out for yourself. Please, experiment and become better than me at it so you can teach me how to do this properly.
Council Of Whispers
Back when I made superhero stuff in Heromachine, I dreamed up four different characters named Whisper, the joke being that the name was such an obviously cool superhero name that four different individuals in the Congo, Ireland, USA and Finland all independently came up with the same name. They ended up meeting up and forming the Council Of Whispers , helping each other out when necessary.I'm not gonna upload them in my main gallery because they're old and crude, but I'll show them to you just for fun. Let's take a time machine trip back to 2010!So, roll call: "Ireland" can turn into a ghost form with appropriate powers and carries a he...
Heromachine 3 quickie: Binoculars
Just a quick example of how a character can be made to use binoculars in Heromachine. Let's break it down.The end product.Here's the same image without the binoculars. Each hand has two thumbs, but the binoculars cover that up, don't worry about it.
Finally, here's how it's actually done. The thumb from the open hand is masked onto a small circle and put on a layer above the "saluting" hand. Tweak the proportions until you feel the hand looks correct.
That's that. I might post more of these quick guides in the future.
Heromachine: Making a mountain climber
Once again, I go over the progress of a design. This time, we're looking at the Mountain Climber.Started out with an idea of a character climbing some tall object with the help of a rope.
Worked in a background, shifted from a forest to the mountains, tried to keep the clothing as basic as possible to avoid headaches if I had to change the pose or something. Color-coded everything so that I can see which items are part of which larger piece.Came to the conclusion that the rope didn't look quite right, it needed to be more taut.
Decided to change from the old rope-around-the-waist to a more modern climbing harness. Took a look at some onlin...
Heromachine: Some thoughts on posing
This is just a an assortment of my thoughts about posing a character in Heromachine. If you're into more of superhero style or making cheesecake images, these might not be terribly useful for you. 1) Is the pose physically possible and the body correctly proportioned? There's only so many ways a person's joints can be arranged, after all. Try not to break your character's bones. Experiment a little with your own body and a mirror. This leads directly into part 2.
2) Is the pose a) static or b) dynamic? 2a) Static If the character is in a static pose, they should be able to maintain that pose for at least as long as they would pose for a p...
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