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Mask Making Demo Part C

An overview to explain how we mold and cast our mask bases.

I'll say it again:
If I see anyone else blatantly ignoring basic safety precautions, I absolutely will take this tutorial down.

PLEASE READ the whole description! It explains all the steps, lists materials used here, and links to where I buy my rubbers and resins.
I WILL NOT answer any questions the answers to which are in the descriptions or can easily be answered with a visit to smooth-on's website (or even a quick google search). I will also not detail this process further.

Description of steps:

16.) Now, I cast the resin mask form. I will not be using a mold release agent for this casting, since the silicone has excellent release properties on its own. However, a latex or urethane mold would require release agent. I measure out equal parts of resin part A, part B, and Filler* (the cups are labeled in the photo).

17.) I mix the three components together thoroughly, and pour them into the mold. I "slush cast" or rotary cast the liquid resin, coating the interior of the mold in an even layer of resin. The resin begins to gel in about 2 minutes.

18.) Once layer one has set up, I mix up layer two. It has all of the same components, except that I also added a couple drops of black pigment (cosmetic preference, a dark-colored interior looks more finished to me).

19.) Layer two is applied the same as the first layer, and left to cure fully. If any places seem thin, I may apply a third layer, but it's usually not necessary.

20.) About 15 minutes later, I demold a perfect lightweight copy of the original model (this particular casting weighed in at 4.1 oz).

Part A: [link] Part B: [link]


* Ure-Fil III (completely optional!), a powdered filler which serves two major purposes - one, it makes this slush-casting (or sometimes brush-on) method much easier, and it also reduces the weight of the casting. Of course, it also decreases the cost of each casting by a little bit (since each casting then requires that much less resin), but that's mainly just a plus for me.

Materials used:
Smooth-cast 300 urethane resin (could also use smooth-cast 325 or ONYX) from Smooth-On
Ure-Fil III filler (Optional)
So-Strong black urethane resin pigment (Optional) (not necessary with ONYX)
Chemical-resistant nitrile gloves
paper cups and popsicle sticks (for mixing)

To learn more about the materials I'm using, and to learn more about mold making and casting basics, visit [link]
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sodasock's avatar
Do you sell them like the silicone mold and the plaster thinggy
Selparda's avatar
Oh, I thought that I should make two molds and make them inside each other, but you just make one mold and take the resin in that? If that so it makes it a lot easier! :-D
TheMushman's avatar
How do you go about separating the jaws, after this process? I guess you use a saw of some kind? I'd be so worried I'd damage it!
Qarrezel's avatar
We use a rotary tool with a cut-off wheel.
Selparda's avatar
Can it work whit a knife to??
Qarrezel's avatar
Probably not.
TheMushman's avatar
cool, thanks ^^
This tutorial is incredibly helpful- I look forward to using it in the new year when I pick up costume work again.
Stargazer465's avatar
 I used "amazing casting resin" that I got from Michaels. I have 5 coats of the stuff on my mask. I took it out and it was very bendy (even the the thickest part, which is 1/2 an inch thick), and now today it is still bendy. Do you guys have any thoughts?
whitefang135's avatar
I think something might be wrong with the Resin, as the mask should be hard, solid, but lightweight,all at the same time. . . did you use Hardener? If yes, how much? 'Cause I heard that you need 10 drops of Hardener for every ounce(or OZ.) Of the Resin. Too little makes it mushy in the center of the Resin, while Too much causes the Resin to Crack. ^^;
lxPaynexl's avatar
Can you put fiberglass mesh in between layers to strengthen for airsoft mask purposes? Or would that be a nono?
siathedragon's avatar
is it possible to make a platic mask this way
xWickedxWillowsx's avatar
I always wanted to know if there were any tutorials on how to fur a resin mask. It's like I look everywhere but I can never find it. ;-; or maybe I'm not looking in the right place.
JCaboose's avatar
The same way you would fur a foam mask :3
Vixen8387's avatar
Great Tutorial.. Have looked at/ stumbled across this a few times over the years, and I hope to have a go at this soon when my work shifts die down after chirssy!

The hard part was trying to figure out what the equivalent products were to use because smooth-on products are not available in my country and they have very different names for the basically the same thing!
Thanks for sharing!!
Tani-Da-Inki's avatar
how do you cut the jaw from the mask?
ZombieHun's avatar
probably with a dremel tool
Tani-Da-Inki's avatar
A year and some months later...I get my answer owo....XD but I figured it out eventually. thanks tho
DragonSparda's avatar
sorry if this has been asked but i watched a vid from smooth cast and the 325 does not look thick when they add it to the mold, do you add it into the mold and have it gel some or do you gel then add?

and do you brush it into the mold?

thank you for your time
Nakumah's avatar
this was very helpful, thanks :)
Ammonite-Amy's avatar
Great tutorial! As someone just getting into resin casting this is very helpful. Thank you!

I would like to ask, do the resins listed degas well on their own? I have been having a lot of trouble with pinholes and have been saving for a pressure chamber, but if the resins you listed are less prone to that then maybe I will try switching up my materials first.
NoveltyAct's avatar
I was really curious at to how muc work goes into resin casting and I found this. Super helpful and I may try it. Looks a little complicated but worth the effort.

Question, how would one go about cutting out the eyes?
whitefang135's avatar
Urrg. . lateness. .
ANYWHO. . You just have to cut out the eye portion when doing one like this one.
Another kind is the ones (for example) made by CanineHybridCreations, where the eyes to put Resin eyes on is slightly spaced apart, but there's the part next to the tear duct that you cut.

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