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Mask Making Demo Part B

An overview to explain how we mold and cast our mask bases.

I'll say it again:
If I see anyone else blatantly ignoring basic safety precautions, I absolutely will take this tutorial down.

PLEASE READ the whole description! It explains all the steps, lists materials used here, and links to where I buy my rubbers and resins.
I WILL NOT answer any questions the answers to which are in the descriptions or can easily be answered with a visit to smooth-on's website (or even a quick google search). I will also not detail this process further.

Description of steps:

9.) I am using plaster bandage* to make the mothermold (also called a matrix or support shell). I moisten several long strips (probably about half a roll or more) and start applying them to the mask surface at the edges.

10.) The mothermold is done in two halves. I build up a ridge in the middle where the two halves wil meet.

11.) The first side is completed, smoothed out, and left to fully set.

12.) I apply a strip of aluminum foil to the ridge that I built up on the first half of the mothermold. This will help separate the two halves later.

13.) The second half of the mothermold is applied same as the first.

14.) Once both halves are set (and preferably completely dry), they are gently pried apart and removed.

15.) And finally, the silicone is removed from the model, nested in the mothermold (the two halves of which are held together with a rubber band), and the mold is ready for casting. Notice that the original model has remained completely undamaged.

Part A: [link] Part C: [link]


* not necessarily everyone's mothermold material of choice. I like it because it's fast, lightweight, and fairly inexpensive. However, it's far less durable than Gypsum cement, like Ultracal. Again, though, with my high mold turnover rate anyway, I don't like to invest too much in these, and the weight of gypsum really bothers me. For a very durable mold, I would recommend a thick Gypsum mothermold.
To cut down on durability issues, though, I never use the craft grade bandages, always medical grade.

Materials used here:
Medical grade plaster bandages
Aluminum foil

To learn more about the materials I'm using, and to learn more about mold making and casting basics, visit [link]
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sketcherjak's avatar
Thank you so much for sharing such a thorough tut!
i have a question. how do you avoid that the final piece doesn't get stuck in the mold? is that why you make a layer of silicone? so that it's more flexible and lets the catchy shapes get out?
or do you just avoid making any complicated turns in the shapes?
Azureran's avatar
I've never done this personally, but I've seen it done. The mother mold comes off in two, then as you said the silicon is flexible. You can even turn it inside out (as long as you're careful with it, don't go ripping away XD, also dependent on how thick your rubber layer is), but yeah you've got the right idea.
Azureran's avatar
DanCameron's avatar
Would it be okay to use a sealant on the plaster mother mold to keep plaster from flaking off?
DragonGames's avatar
is this plaster bandage Gypsona? or wouldyou reccommend it? im not sure if you have used it or even know what is so sorry if im botherin you XD
Corvus-Pacificus's avatar
I was wondering..if I want to do only one the trial size big enough? [link]
TalonArt's avatar
Looking amazing. I'm attempting to do something like this....can you use Plasti-paste as the mother mold? I hope I got the right stuff. This is my first time doing it.
DragonGames's avatar
im a mask maker myself (sorry if you wanted an answer from Q) Plasti-paste works for mothermolds. when :iconsugarpoultry: used to make masks she used it so thats how i definately know its the right stuff. :)
tsukikalynn's avatar
whats the purpose of the mothermold? i dont get it o.o
sugarpoultry's avatar
It surrounds the rubber compound and hardens to keep the shape so you make sure your mask is cast correctly. ; So it doesn't wabble around while your casting the resin. Otherwise your mask would be disproportionate.
tsukikalynn's avatar
oooooo o.o i didnt know that X-3 cool
TheFrostFoot's avatar
Hello Qarrezel! I have a question...

Are keys necessary if you're using rebound 25? Because, When I tried to attach some clay keys they wouldn't stay. D:; So I continued on without them. Is this bad, will it ruin my mold? I'm just a casting newb.

Also, how long does it take for each half of the mothermold to set?

Thanks a lot!
Dakunoi's avatar
I just tried using cubes of styrofoam, the type when you package frozen foods
it works great too
Qarrezel's avatar
They are very, very helpful, but it won't ruin your mold to not have them. Apply an extra couple layers of silicone so that the mold holds its shape better.

Rebound should fuse to itself though. Did you apply rebound pieces directly to the still uncured rebound surface?

How long it takes for your plaster mothermold to set up depends on your plaster bandages (brand, age), water temperature, ambient temperature, and thickness of the overall layup. You can make them set faster by increasing temperatures.
raccoon12's avatar
Hi there,
I'd like to make this mask and wonder if you could give me a comprhensive material list for the mask featured in the tutorial above?
Qarrezel's avatar
All the major materials are listed or pictured already. The only other things you need are basic mold-making and casting supplies.
You can find everything you need here: [link]
IrishZombie77's avatar
my question is would you still take the same steps with the birds like tierny or tawny? cause that just makes my head hurt trying to think that through at the moment XD
Qarrezel's avatar
Yes, exact same process.
vampire-wolf-girl's avatar
I have a question...what is your head base made of and where did you get it??
Qarrezel's avatar
Gypsum - I cast it myself from a mold of my head.
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