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Garage Kit Tutorial

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By Pyramidcat   |   Watch
Published: March 11, 2012
© 2012 - 2020 Pyramidcat
Here is my third attempt at a complete garage kit building tutorial. I got many comments that my previous Gk tutorials were unclear for beginners and looking back on them I completely agree ^_^

Most images are from my previous WIPs but the wording and format is entirely new. I used many different kits for examples and spaced out the steps for easier readable.
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1280x10800px 3.06 MB
Comments36
anonymous's avatar
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SinistrosePhosphate's avatar
SinistrosePhosphateHobbyist General Artist
Thank you so very much for your tutorial! I am just starting to enter the garage kit hobby. This has been very helpful! :thanks:
ahrimagnus's avatar
hello, so it's possible to paint with brush, thank you.

Any paint is usuable ?  i use cital paint from Game workshop, i was wondering if it's good or should i change and another ? thanks in advance.
Hana-Mae's avatar
Hana-MaeHobbyist General Artist
this is kind of a dumb question but can you just glue the pieces together instead of pinning them? also are there any other ways to paint a gk without an airbrush but still have it be smooth?
Pyramidcat's avatar
Pyramidcat Artisan Crafter
It is not a dumb question at all! Yes you can just glue the parts together without pinning, but it depends how well the parts are keyed and how heavy they are. So for example, on a sailor moon kit, you probably want to place a pin when gluing the head and hair together on Sailor Mars, since the hair will be very heavy. But on Sailor Mercury, a pin is probably not necessary since her hair is much shorter, and much lighter.

I've been using oils paints on my kits for over 5 years now. I'm still improving using them, but I'm happy with the finish I'm getting without having to airbrush.
 
hachimitsu-ink's avatar
hachimitsu-inkHobbyist Digital Artist
abit late, but NOT ONE in the community in "The clubhouse" has helped me until I found this on google..

so far I DID sand ALOT OF areas to smooth them but I didn't primer them and ended with a difrent result!..
So now I know I need to add primer on the figure!....which is something I didn't know (THIS IS ME BEING A FIRST TIME LEARNING stuff)..

so since i made a mistake... what is advise to remove water based acryclic? i was thinking of using thinner but my dad said it will damaged it! so is rubbing alchol better?...or 409?....
Example of my screw up::: (its water based acrylic and im using an airbrush to do this)
www.facebook.com/hachimitsu.us…
Pyramidcat's avatar
Pyramidcat Artisan Crafter
I use Winsor & Newton Brush Cleaner and Restorer to strip paint off my kits.

If you can soak it in a container big enough for a few hours, the paint will loosen from the resin on its own. then use an old brush to clean the part while still in the cleaner. then I use paper towel to wipe the residue off the kit. It works on all types of paint and will dissolve lacquer brush handles. the cleaner gets darker over time but still completely usable. So you can re-pour the cleaner back into the bottle and use it for next time (use a funnel ^_^)

If you dont have a container big enough, then you can use a large brush and brush it over one area at a time. Because the part is not soaking in the cleaner, you have to work more to dissolve the paint, but its still doable. Since it is water based acrylic, you can try using just dishwashing soap and a sponge first, but the brush cleaner method is less labor intensive.
hachimitsu-ink's avatar
hachimitsu-inkHobbyist Digital Artist
thank you so much, it actually helped alot!...

(used an old soft tooth brush so.it worked but only a handful of pigments are left in the figure but i already spray paint it with primer so things should be good! (i hope)
ElJosueLight's avatar
ElJosueLightHobbyist
Thanks for the tutorial. I'm considering trying a kit like this.

Toward the bottom you have that early and later attempt at doing the eyes. Is that on the same figure--just painted over?
Pyramidcat's avatar
Pyramidcat Artisan Crafter
yeah its the same figure just repainted.
ElJosueLight's avatar
ElJosueLightHobbyist
Cool, thanks for the reply :3
SunnyTiger22's avatar
SunnyTiger22Student Traditional Artist
I love you!:happybounce: Hug 

Thank you so much for this tutorial!
DarkAngelYoshi's avatar
DarkAngelYoshiHobbyist Artisan Crafter
Nice tutorial, will definitely give this a try! It'll be my first time creating a figure for my boyfriend's coming birthday. :heart: Quick question though: What acrylic/non-acrylic paint do you suggest for hand painted figures that will still give a nice ending result? Thank you in advance!
Pyramidcat's avatar
Pyramidcat Artisan Crafter
Hi, sorry for the late reply!! I think Vallejo Model color paints are the best for hand painting, but they need to be thinned to get a good result too. I use a few drops of their brand thinner plus a few drops of water and apply a few coats for good coverage.
DarkAngelYoshi's avatar
DarkAngelYoshiHobbyist Artisan Crafter
It's all good, thank you for getting back in touch with me! I'll give that a try then, since so far I've only painted primer on my figure. Thank you so much again!
Rossana-Kaneko's avatar
How shadding whith manual brush?
PaulineFrench's avatar
PaulineFrenchHobbyist General Artist
Do you by any chance have a pinning tutorial or know of a good one? I've tried it, but I can never make the pieces line up after applying the pin. I guess I'm not drilling the holes straight, but I don't know how to solve that.
Pyramidcat's avatar
Pyramidcat Artisan Crafter
Are you drilling by hand or electric? It’s easier to get smaller straighter holes with an electric, but as the holes are smaller, you have to be exact with the pin placement.

When I use a hand drill, the holes tend to be a lot larger and the pin is not as snug because I cannot hold the part as steady and drill at the same time. But the pin will still fit if I am slightly off with the alignment. I use putty after to tighten the pin.

You can try placing a short pin with paint on the tip and match it up to the other part. In this way, the paint will go on the other part where the pin should be and you know where to drill.

Pinning is definitely difficult to get the hang of. Sometimes I had to drill around 5 holes to find a set that aligned.
PaulineFrench's avatar
PaulineFrenchHobbyist General Artist
I drill by hand. I should probably invest in something electric :XD:

I've tried paint on the pin. It's the actual hole that I can never seem to drill properly. It might be in the right place, but I can never get it in the right direction. Thank god though that I'm not just being silly and missing some obvious technique.
LazyHydra's avatar
LazyHydraHobbyist General Artist
Hello, first of all I wanted to say this tutorial is gonna help me a lot with the next garage kit Ill buy. (I only have one, was hand painted, and, although the results aren't too bad, they could be a lot better.) Right now I'm thinking of investing in an airbrush kit, and I had a small request. Would you mind helping me select the material I need for it? Going to a shop and ask about the 3-4 compressor models they have is one thing, but if possible Id like to ask someone with some experience with them to help me make my choices. (I found some kits on ebay compressor/brush/+a few tools that made the purchase a lot more affordable compared to those at the art shop. If possible I would like your opinion on the models I saw and maybe know what are the pros and cons to pick a type over an other.)
Pyramidcat's avatar
Pyramidcat Artisan Crafter
Hello, sorry for my late reply. But actually I don’t think I could have helped you too much, since I don’t really airbrush anymore ^_^;

I used an Iwata siphon/bottom feed type, since I liked to have a large portion of paint mixed and could have saved the mixed color for later. But many other artists seemed to favor the gravity feed. You would want a dual action internal mix to get the best shading results. But if you already bought another type it’s not so bad because you can learn how to use the airbrush first and then get a better model down the road.

For compressors I really didn’t have any good tips of what is the best. The cheaper ones are extremely loud. But the really quiet ones are super expensive. I had a Silentaire Scorpion but I considered it noisy. I wanted to get the SilentAire Super Silent 20-A Compressor but never got around to it because it’s about $500 T_T
Alkevin's avatar
AlkevinStudent Traditional Artist
Awesome tutorial. The tip of using gesso as a primer is good because I live in a small apartment ( for now) and if I use the spray one the smells takes time to go away and it´s an hazard for the lungs. To matte the gesso you use matte gel right? I`ve found from another brand.
Pyramidcat's avatar
Pyramidcat Artisan Crafter
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!

I thin gesso with water, but on the Liquitex website, they recommend to use matte medium also if you are thinning the gesso beyond 25%.

At least from Liquitex, "matte gel" and "matte medium" are too different things. The "medium" is very thin and liquidity, I think the "gel" is much more thick. But from another brand it might be different.
Ozzlander's avatar
OzzlanderHobbyist General Artist
this actually help me with something i was missing on a zoid model i was working on that wouldn't hold paint i never thought to wash the parts first
Pyramidcat's avatar
Pyramidcat Artisan Crafter
Glad it helped! I actually did not wash my first kits either ^_^
anonymous's avatar
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