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Daily Deviation
Daily Deviation
January 7, 2010
35mm Holga Mod Tutorial by *OmahaNebraska is an excellent tutorial for modifying your 120 Holga into a 35mm Holga! DIY photography at it's best!
Featured by Moonbeam13
Suggested by obsidianfox
OmahaNebraska's avatar

35mm Holga Mod Tutorial

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56 Comments
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I made this for ~utqtbry and =evile33 but if it's helpful to anyone else that's great too.

This isn't permanent, you can switch back and forth between 120 & 35mm.


Let me know if anything doesn't make sense or if you need help with something. I made this at 2am so it's not the most attractive tutorial, but I think you guys get the point.

DD?! Well, this is a bit of a thrill and an embarrassment all rolled into one, lol. I actually planned on reorganizing this so it no longer looked like a two year old made it, but the actual content is pretty solid so I hope you enjoy and everything makes sense. :) A big thanks to *obsidianfox and $Moonbeam13

If you enjoyed this tutorial you also might like my tutorial on building a 360 degree pinhole camera:
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© 2007 - 2021 OmahaNebraska
Comments56
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compguy248's avatar
Thanks so much! I can't wait to try this out.
SSsupercharged95's avatar
i REALLY dnt understand how you kno when your film is done!!!! Can you help me?!?!?!?!?!?!?
OmahaNebraska's avatar
You should be able to tell by the tension, eventually you'll get to the end of the roll and the film wheel won't want to advance anymore, because inside the little cassette is a spool that it is taped to. So when it happens don't try and push through anyways or you'll rip the film out of the container.

Then, when it is done, and you feel the tension, you need to go into complete darkness (just as with loading) and take the film out and wind it back in with your hands by twisting the top knob of the film cannister.


Hope that helps, if it doesn't let me know :)
SSsupercharged95's avatar
thanks sooooo much!! that helped A LOT. i dnt mean to be annoying but i hav one more question. When you are done with the film, won't all of the film be on the right spool instead of the left now? if so, do you just leave it there and take it to the developer like that?
OmahaNebraska's avatar
You're not being annoying, it's okay :)

Yes, when you get to the end it is all going to be wound around the right spool, but you can't take it to get developed like that because it's just wound around itself, if you were to expose it to light you'd ruin all of the film. That is why you have to go in the dark (either a closet with the door taped shut, or buy a film changing bag) and you have to take it off of that spool and then, using the little knob on the top of the film casette on the left, you just wind it back inside itself, then it will be light safe, and then you can take it to get developed.
OneFreeInternet's avatar
That's actually damn ingenious, I know nothing about photography but any fool can see that you're pretty intimate with your equipment. :o
OmahaNebraska's avatar
Haha, I am a camera molester! D:


And thank ye for the favorites, miss :flirty:
natandhayley's avatar
ive been meaning to mod my new holga 120n and couldnt find the tutorial i saw on it last week. so i came across yours in the search for another tut and it was by far the easiest to follow. i added another slice of foam on top of the take up spool for some tension and used velcro to secure the back. but thanks it was too easy following yours :D hopefully the pictures come out nicely!
myrnajacobs's avatar
Great! I need to save this somehow.
Dragons-Eye's avatar
Great tutorial!!
Do you think that would work with a Diana camera as well?
OmahaNebraska's avatar
Yup, I'm pretty sure it would, any 120 camera would probably be decently similar. I've tried the same thing on a TLR and it worked just fine. :)
Artificient's avatar
Congratulations on another Daily Deviation OmahaNebrask. I think I can actually use this technique or an old Anscoflex camera that I have. It used some sort of large format 160mm film or something. The problem is I don't have a darkroom...
OmahaNebraska's avatar
Gracias :bow:

Well, the good news is you don't need a darkroom! What you do need is a film changing bag or a blacked out room and then a negative scanner. Even the flatbed models will do if they have a transparency unit. It's a bit of an investment (200ish) but if you shoot enough film (and are sans darkroom) it's totally worth it.
AngelusNoir's avatar
.....very helpful & useful:D...the info is great,so the plain format doesn't detract:heart:Very helpful...and I didn't know you could get a darkroom bag!!:XD:....haven't processed film myself since Uni,so that's a helpful tip in itself!!
:woohoo:congrats on your DD:woohoo:
OmahaNebraska's avatar
Well, I'm glad I could help :) I don't know what I'd do without my film changing bag, it's a lifesaver! So worth the 10 bucks.

Good luck :salute:
Evil-e33's avatar
OMG congrats sweetie on the DD, very much deserved :love:
:iconpounceglomp:
I plan on modding my Holga for 35mm soon :excited:
OmahaNebraska's avatar
:glomp:

I'm all flustered, lol. On one hand, getting a DD is always exciting, on the other hand, I made this so long ago and it's ugly as sin. I guess this is just the kick in the butt I need to update the organization of it :giggle:


As for your future adventures, I can't wait to see!
Evil-e33's avatar
:rofl: who cares if it's ugly, the pertinent information is there and that's all that matters :cuddle:
mono22chrome's avatar
I don't wanna be a stranger to this, what exactly does it do to your camera? or rather, the outcome of your pictures.
OmahaNebraska's avatar
Well, the only thing it does to your camera is allow you to temporarily shoot 35mm film instead of 120 roll film. You can always remove the sponges, remove the rubber bands and use it with 120 just as you normally would :)

The outcome is that instead of exposing the photograph on a 6x6 square of film you expose a thinner strip of 35mm film and the image overlaps the sprockets. There are tons of examples all over the net, here are some on flickr: [link]

You can develop your film yourself or have a lab develop it but to really get the full effect you either need to print it in a traditional darkroom or have it scanned to disk and include the sprockets - If you are going the scanning route you'll want to talk to the lab tech about it as many places (at least where I'm from) can't or won't scan and include the sprockets. You can scan them yourself on home negative scanner (not expensive if you get a flatbed model) - you can even scan them on a regular, non negative flatbed scanner but the quality will be greatly reduced and you probably will have trouble converting the color from negative to positive.

Hope that helps :)
mono22chrome's avatar
thanks for shedding some light.
:highfive:
damien-c's avatar
So awesome! Thank you so much for this.:)
OmahaNebraska's avatar
Thank you, hope it helps :)
prosaix's avatar
I understand, you made this in 2007
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