Egtwed 1370 B.C.
Stripes of colors appears on bands from Iron Age, but this "pattern" is more common in other weaving techniques including rigid heddle weaving as in Skjoldehamn
Varangstrup 300-500 AD
Diagonals and Chevrons
Collingwod lists diagonal raised "Welts" as pattern appearing in Iron Age German findings and Danish band that, judging from description, may be chevrons-patterned. Unfortunately there aren't many evidences of more complex diagonal-based patterns until 6th century A.D. (Snartemo grave II) but parallel bands of this period shows far more elaborated patterning
(Snartemo grave V
). Gap between those last two band is so great it can`t be overlooked.
Snartemo II band reconstruction.
Simple diagonal patternHistorical evidence:
Throrjsberg 2nd-3rd century A.D.
Vestrum 5th century A.D.
Snartemo II about 500 AD
The Diamond pattern is a natural evolution from the chevron pattern. The earliest evidence comes from the Vestrum findings. Those first diamonds were elaborated using a 2-hole technique and used two colors. Other approaches appear on bands from Cambrige
and Masku Humikkala as both show signs of using three colors and have clearly marked borders.
Mixing diamonds and chevrons can be seen on Kaupang
trim and modified diamonds in Hallstatt
Another type of chevron is also called "arrowhead" (full trangle). Collingwood mentions an Egyptian (Coptic) belt with this pattern dating from the 4th-5th century A.D. ...it is also present on modern Turkish and Pakistan folk belts
Different Diamond based bands.
Arrowhead based pattern.
Hallstatt 800-400 B.C.
Vestrum 400 A.D.
Cambrige 5th-6th century A.D.
Kaupang 800-900 A.D.
Masku Humikkala 8658:H17 12th-13 century A.D
So called Egyptian Diagonals
This pattern gets its name from the Egyptian statuary ornamented with zigzag and chevron patterns. Unfortunately there is not enough evidence to prove that the Egyptians knew tablet weaving very long before the Coptic period... In the 4th to 5th centuries A.D, 25 wooden tablets were found at the Antoine excavations. Nonetheless, the technique of "bending" two-strand diagonals is common in Finnish bands and has it's reflection in Icelandic two-face weaving but also in the rigid heddle-weaving pick-up technique that is characteristic in Slavonic culture
The most popular - horizontal S - motif Can be found on Swedish and Finnish bands as well as modern Old Believers' Belts
Egyptian diagonals + "two-face" weaving
Kirkkomaki Turku grave 27 11th century A.D.
Birka 9th century A.D
Kekkomaki Kaukola 1200 A.D.
Kivrim and Ram's HornsThe Ram's Horns pattern popularized by Crockett's "Card Weaving" book comes from 20th century Anatolian (Turkish) belts and it has no equivalent in archaeological finds. The same thing applies to the Running Dog pattern that is, in fact, half of the Ram's Horms pattern.
Kivrim style, based on three "bent" color stripes (to which Collingwood also includes two previous patterns) appears on some Coptic period bands, but also as a framing motif on the Sicilian orphey form of the 12th century, and Anatolian belts.
Also a Vine pattern that looks like shifted Ram's horns and is non-European. It is a traditional motif from Sulavesi
Sample of Ram's Horns pattern
Braid with other motifs (my own design)
Birka B2 9th century A.D.
Mammen 970 A.D.
Elisenhof 10th century A.D.
This pattern is known from a unique band that came from Birka and is made using the "brocade" technique. The existence of other such bands made using other weaving techniques is debatable, yes, but not entirely out of the question...
Birka B22 9th century A.D.
The Pattern is known from a pair of souvenir garters
that were made in Jerusalem in the 17th century. The specific one bearing this motif is dated: 1649.
Belt with Jerusalem Cross pattern
As you have seen: weaving "historical" objects can be tricky. But now you have a starting point: So search!, create! and ENJOY.
That's what Artisan Crafts are all about anyway!
Collingwood, Peter. The Techniqes of Tablet Weaving. Robin & Rus Handweavers, Inc. McMiniville 2002
Crockett, Candace. Card Weaving. Interweave Press LLC Loveland 1991