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ArtCrumbss

Godsbane Manga Creator
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NukeRooster (formerly known as Tatchit) and I are moving at the end of the year and we need some help! We are offering some collab-commissions (collabmissions) for you guys in the form of YCH!


We have worked on collaborations before in the past 2 or 3 times, so we are used to working together. All money earned from these goes into our moving funds. We are both moving from opposite ends into one place together, so your help will be very much appreciated!


Technical info:

*one client per example atm. We want these to be special.


*To complete any of the YCH examples, prices for all start at 100usd. This will give us a few hrs to work on the piece. The more time allotted, the more detailed we can make it. Artwork will be 9x12 at 300 DPI (2700x3600px).


*a down payment of half the full amount is required to secure a slot. Allow a few weeks for completion, both of us have full time jobs.


Clients are welcome to request updates at any time through e-mail/DM.

Second half of payment is required once work has been completed.


*to claim a YCH, please note or comment below! *TY for the support!*


  1. NEST OF THORNS (CLAIMED)

Concept

2. FIGHT THE SKY (OPEN)

Concept Small

3. THIRSTY LEAVES (OPEN)

Concept Leaves Small
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Digital Art Week




Hello everyone and welcome to Digital Art Week! I'm ArtCrumbss, a digital and traditional artist. I'm currently a freelancer and resident artist for Wacom and Graphixly (Clip Studio). Essentially I help out at conventions by demoing the tablets and art software. :'D NykolaiAleksander invited me to talk to you guys, so here I am! Our Digital Art Week this time will focus on animals, creatures and humans! I'll be covering fur and hair done digitally, specifically in Clip Studio, but if you are savvy enough, this will all apply to other digital programs as well! Let's get started.


Digital Fur: A Variety of Looks



Fur is something that you can do any numerous ways. First I will cover a few ways to do few in terms of methods, then I will go over how I do fur in my own artwork. This tutorial is about a sort of cel-shading using gradients, airbrushing and the smudge tool. I will also cover the lineart process showing examples for the specific style.

These are two of the examples I will be covering today.

 



1. Texture and Shape


Fur comes in all shapes and textures. This applies to all creatures whether wild, domestic, even people! This deviation by Deskleaves is a great example of a wide variety, and not even all of them! Birds are a bit different due to feathers, which I won’t be covering, however some birds, like flightless birds (my character Koko above), have feathers that appear more like fur. Anyway, what kind of fur or hair do YOUR characters have?! Compare them here:





This matters because depending on the texture will determine on how you shade and color the fur/hair on your art.

So pay attention class!


If you can, try to make a special list that lets you identify this on your characters for future reference. To add, a single character can have a variety of types on their body.


01 by ArtCrumbss

02 by ArtCrumbss

03 by ArtCrumbss
   


Here are some examples from the two examples posted earlier. This applies to any creature, hell even some PLANTS have fur or hairs and vary in fibers when making papers. So taking the time to learn about them can help with your artwork in all sorts of ways. When sketching and planning out your drawing, be sure to include the type of fur, I planned out these fur/hair types in the sketch. While and doing lineart, I was far cleaner and paid attention to line weight, which I will discuss later. It doesn’t have to be absolutely perfect in the sketch, but at least identify what sort of hair and texture.



Thinking of these things will REALLY help your artwork looking more realistic.

 









2. Growth Direction and Color Changes


The next thing to keep in mind, is not only what sort of texture the fur has, but what direction it flows in. Fur and hair don't just magically sit on the body. They follow specific physics and are general patterns. Of course these may change based on exact species or breeds, so always look up references if possible to determine these patterns!

While sketching if it helps,, you can draw the arrows with your sketch and do smaller studies to practice these patterns. If you have a pet or other animals you work with, check them out, you might notice a neat pattern!

Humans have this as well! Most hair starts in the back of the head and whorls, especially visible in those with short hair. Longer hair people usually have a part on one side of their head or at the top. People can also TRAIN their hair to part certain ways. So when designing characters and animals, keep that in mind. This goes for facial and body hair too!


Here are some examples of animals for you!


04 by ArtCrumbss


In addition to direction, another thing to think about is the seasons, a lot of animals change seasons. Wolves for example have different coats for summer and winter. My own cat, Miso, changes fur in summer and winter. I mention this because these seasonal changes affect the growth of the hair and often can make radical changes in the creature. These changes have a purpose, so when doing characters that live in certain environments like cold, arctic tundras or even the oceans (many fish change), keep that in mind as well! It'll make your characters interesting!

Here are some examples for you:

Winter on Left / Summer on Right

06 by ArtCrumbss


Summer on Left / Winter on Right

05 by ArtCrumbss



Now that we know a little bit more about how
to look and think about fur and hair, let’s look at
ways to draw and color it! 





3. Fur and Hair in Different Art Styles


There are a TON of ways to do this. I'm going to cover a few "basic" styles below.

1- Hair of the Dog Technique - 


Essentially you draw every single hair, very detailed and tedious work. I did this in one of my classes at Ringling (Art college). It is a neat technique, and pretty easy. Here are some great examples I found on here on DeviantART. Good job on these wonderful artworks Deviants! :la:

Puppie Dog by zero-tx    Angry Tiger Square Portrait by Red-IzaK

Portrait by LordMarlon   Clydesdale Portrait by Candrence
 

2- Painting /Suggestive -


This can be more abstract or literal. There are a LARGE variety of ways this can be done. Usually done in clumps, or chunks to suggest hair and fur. There are a million ways to do this, so feel free to experiment!


Iridius by NukeRooster   Connection by wlop
  Portrait by avvart  Arcade SONA! by rozemira



3- Cel Shading (Soft and Hard) -


This comes in two forms, soft and hard cel. The main difference between the two is that soft cel has softer spots throughout the image. Hard cels are hard defined lines between light an shadow. It can still allow for bounce light, so the two has a mix of possibilities, but generally the same look. Gradients are common method here. This is typical for cartoons, manga, anime and other animation style due to the easy nature of drawing. Drawing painted or complicated shading techniques can be very difficult when having to draw 24-30 frames per second, which is standard for animation. I personally use a soft style mixed with screentones, like the first style above.

Soft


Speedpaint Commissions XXVI by Runandwine  - Shhhir by ShinzessuSavage by Runandwine

Hard


- White fluff by Shinzessu
Dream Team by RhydonSutherland






4. The Actual Process of Drawing


Now, I do a sort of cel shading, typically soft cel, so I cannot help much personally in terms of how to do this with a painting style or a Hair of Dog style. I'll do the best I can to make it easy.

Sketching and Inking


These are similar in terms of method. For me the main difference is quality of line. The sketches are more free and focused on idea, not precision. Figuring out what type of lines and fur is along each part of the body and the direction it is going against the body, you can compare them here! I also color my lineart, this is a beneficial technique as black lines can flatten/deaden the artwork. Giving it color can give it more life, look more 3D. I usually use colors for the lineart that are already in the artwork. In this example, I used a dark fuchsia (a dark reddish purple) as it was a color I would use for shading later on the fur. So try to select your colors carefully.




Keep in mind that when it comes to lineart in the CEL style that LINE WEIGHT matters. The fact we have bold text as a formatting proves my point about line weight). Line weight is essentially the thickness of the line. Notice in the above image that not all lines are the same, sometimes I lower the opacity or shrink the actual size of the brush tip. This can help with defining light as well as quality.


07 by ArtCrumbss


The whisker and chin hairs are light and thin, versus the hair right at the neck. It is thicker and darker in appearance. It goes with the shadows I have planned for the lighting and shading in the later process.

08 by ArtCrumbss

Don't forget to color your lineart too! I did a nice reddish brown which you can see in the whiskers most noticeably.



Base Colors and Markings


Typically the next step is to fill in the base color. I try to never use a fully saturated color. The circle around the triangle is the hue, the line going from golden to black is value from hue to black, and the line going from white to black is simply value with no color at all.

09 by ArtCrumbss


Fills can be done by selecting with the magic wand tool outside the area, then inverting the selection.
This will select the space inside.

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Once you have the outside area selected, pick your color and then go to Edit > Fill OR hit ALT+Delete to fill.


11 by ArtCrumbss


This is our result. Everything is filled in with nothing out of the characters form (ignore the bits under the flowers).


12 by ArtCrumbss


Now that we have the basic form down, we need to add markings. A lot of animals AND humans have multiple colors on their hair/fur. The easiest way to add this without going outside the color already laid down. Easy peasy, this technique can be used in Photoshop as well. Make a new layer and name it “markings”. SELECT THAT LAYER. Then hover your mouse over the layer preview/icon of your color base, hold the CTRL/CMD button and click the mouse ONCE. This will select everything that IS NOT TRANSPARENT in that layer, our color base layer. Then you will look above at the menu for a rectangle with a white circle... THIS is your “Create a Mask” button. Make sure your markings layer is still selected and then click that button. It should have a result like the right image. The pixels of that layer that are WHITE will show through, the black will be BLOCKED. That's how I remember, kinda like a digital stencil!


13 by ArtCrumbss


Now we can color in and add markings without worrying about “going outside the lines”. So now I will go ahead
and do my own markings on my Ahk character. Now that we have a layer mask to make sure we don't go outside our lines, we need to go ahead and fill it Ahk's markings. He has some markings on is face, ear, some socks on his front legs, stockings on his back legs and then some on the tip of his tail. Cutie yeah? Below is an example of how the fills work and then the result of putting in his markings. I also put the brown markings into Linear Burn afterwards to get the color I wanted.


14 by ArtCrumbss

15 by ArtCrumbss



Screentones


Now this next part is a personal touch, but with coloring I like to put in screentones. What is a screentone? They are the lined or dotted patterns commonly seen in pop art, manga and comics. They are also called halftones or zipitones depending on who you talk to and what sort of work they do. This portion is optional, it's not needed for shading or coloring of fur, unless you are using a manga/comic style that involves this sort of tool. Read it and learn something new or you can move on to the next part of this "Shading and Lighting" which is below.

Clip Studio (both Pro and EX) has a tool for this. But first, make a copy of your markings later in CSP, you can do this by Clicking on the layer and dragging it to the "New Layer" icon on the far left (looks like a white sheet of paper with a bent corner). OR you can go to the very very top left corner of the "Layers" window and click on the arrow that points to the 3 lines. This is your "layer options menu". Then click on "Duplicate layer". This will make a copy of the layer as shown below. Make sure your second layer is send to NORMAL blending mode, NOT anything else, for now anyway.

Then when you have that, make sure your markings color is still your foreground color (meaning in your color wheel it is still the top of the two colors. See below on the right image. Got it? Great, now go to the "Layer Properties" window, it should be above your layer panel. There will be a checkerboard pattern and you are going to click that specific icon.

If for some reason you cannot find it or it is not open, go to the top menu and go to Window > Layer Properties.

16 by ArtCrumbss    THEN >>  17 by ArtCrumbss


Once we click on the tone button (checkerboard button), the options for this change and our layer gets a checkerboard icon on the right. This is to let us know this is now a tone later. You will also notice that the layer is likely forced into Black and white! No worries we got that part, that's why I had you pick your color earlier. :'D You will need to click on the blue and white icon to the right of the tone icon. This may initially turn your layer blue, but this is a default. Hover your cursor over the layer color (blue) and click it to "fill" the bar with the color you chose earlier.

Now your screen tone layer should be the color you want it to be!

18 by ArtCrumbss  >>>> 19 by ArtCrumbss


This next part is going to be up to you guys entirely as every single image is going to be unique. At the top of the layer Property panel you will see "Number of Screen Frequency". To explain this as easily as possible, essentially this changes how close or far apart the dots are. Slide this left and right until you see a look that you like. I will put mine to about 36.9 and Cross for the dot settings (not circle like the screenshot), however you might use something different. "Density" is not something we are going to worry about right now, but you can play with it if you wish. Dot settings is neat! You can have a very different look for each option. You can choose from lines, to dots, or hatching to even stars and cherries! Very fun to play with!

This might look like a weird pattern, almost plaid based on the screenshot you see here, but that doesn't mean the final will look like that. if you zoom in, you will likely see it change. This odd plaid-ish or any odd pattern you see in your screentones is called "Moire pattern". It usually has to do with resolution, which is why it vanishes upon zooming in. Check the "final size" of your imagine either my zooming into it or changing the actual image size if you don't work at final. For example, I work 4x bigger than the final size, which means I need to see how the image looks at 25%. When I zoom in to 25% it looks just fine, so I'll have to be mindful of that when saving the final, but so far it'll be ok. :'D

Now we get to move on to shading and lighting!


Shading and Lighting


The real meat of the issue is here, so hold in tight guys, it actually isn't a large portion, I promise. I don't do a ton of work on shading and lighting. Typically I'll use the Airbrush tool, gradients, pen, and eraser (soft) to do my shading. But enough talking, let'sa go!

To start, I'll put all my shadows in as a HARD LINE, again this is cel shading, I'll soften some of these edges later. I pick my shadow AND light colors, I want to keep them realistic and not flat, especially since healthy fur and hair are so radiant. I choose a warm purple for the shadows and a bright pale yellow. This may see odd with him already being a yellow, but I'm confident it'll work out well. If not it is an easy change later with my "layer color" option that I covered in the screentone section.

So now I have this with just my shadows in hard cel form. I'll go and soften some edges to get that nice soft cel look and then do the same to my highlight. How do I get those softer edges (most visible in the tail and forearm opposite of us)? I go along the edges with a blend tool (looks like a set of black and white droplets) on, usually I set mine to Soothing watercolor or Fingerpaint, I typically put the same settings to both, 50/50 on stretch and density. This keeps it someone transparent, but doesn't pull too much to make it look like I grabbed a glob of acrylic paint and speared it around. Don't forget the post of this part is to BLEND and great the illusion of fur. This semi-transparent look is great for getting fur-like strokes.


22 by ArtCrumbss


I also used a soft eraser brush on the shadows of the tail near where the tail begins to bend to the right. This adds dimension to the shadow and doesn't make it look so flat. I do this also with the highlights, most visible along the thigh and tip of the tail. There are also points, most notable area is in the tail. I use the eraser, I will use a hard shape to get the patches of light in there. This also helps with the 3D look. However these colors look pretty harh, I dimmed them down by lowering the opacity on them both and put the highlight layer on "Linear Light" to get the exact look I wanted.


20 by ArtCrumbss


21 by ArtCrumbss


Almost there guys! There is only one little portion left to really make this lighting look really vibrant. Adding additional lighting on the underside called "bounced light" will be great! It will also cool it down the shadows as they are a bit warm at the moment. First of all, I added a light blue over some areas of Ahk, like the neck under his chin, the shadows of his tail, his underbelly near his elbow,  and his tail near where it tucks behind the flowers. I will set this layer to multiply to help darken it, but being a light blue, it will only darken it a little. Just enough to add a cooler shadow to the fur and really make it look more 3D.

By contrast, I added a white over some parts of the rump just underneath the large flower, his forehead and shoulder right under his chin. I will set the Light White layer to Add Glow to make those highlight really pop, but at the same time not saturate them too much, thus why I chose the white.

23 by ArtCrumbss  24 by ArtCrumbss

After we add effects, like some floating white orbs to give off a bit of a glow, it changes a lot! Give it a sort of glowing life. I adjust the curves and contrast a little and it's done! Check it out below!









Summary


Now We are going to review what we covered. 

  • Fur and Hair has a lot of variation in texture, shapes, and lengths. Vary it up on your characters for neat designs.
  • Fur and Hair grows in patterned directions, which also vary by species and sometimes individuals!
  • Fur can change colors and thickness by seasons! You can add this to make it seem more natural and realistic.
  • There are lots of techniques for fur and hair, the 3 I listed are not ALL of them, but common ones. Try them all out.
  • Try to plan your hair and fur in the sketching stage, this will make it easier later as you ink and color.
  • When inking, try line weights and colored line art to really make it pop and add more dimension to your work.
  • When putting in colors, starting with a base and using a mask for markings makes "staying in lines" much easier.
  • Screentones can add a nice touch and texture for a pop look or for those of the comic, manga or cel style!
  • When adding shading, consider when you need hard and soft shadows, especially if working in a cel style!
  • Adding bounced light and glows are one way to add an extra dimension and real vibrancy to your piece.

I hope that this was educational for you guys. I certainly learned some things putting this together and I again thank NykolaiAleksander for inviting me to write for projecteducate. Thank you again!


Thank you! So much for reading!



Please leave any comments for me with questions.


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EDIT 11/28/2019: I have a video for you guys that covers this journal. At this point we are remembering things we are thankful for and appreciate. A lot of people could love and support themselves more. I hope that this can be useful and help you appreciate the skills you do have, or goal you are working towards. It's great for listening to while you work or if you don't want to read a really long journal. LOL






Original Post


So this is something that I've been bottling up for a while and I want to address it. Now, before you harp on me, I am guilty of this from time to time as well. However I want to open up the floor to this conversation.

I try to stay kind and gentle in my conversations with people. However for this, forgive my blunt tone. I am giving people advice based on what worked for me and other professionals I've talked to. This advice is for ANYONE, but mostly visual mediums like drawing, paints, etc. Though if you stretch your mind a bit, it could apply to any medium.

Also I KNOW not everyone wants to be a pro. This is about being a pro. It's about bettering your art. I have people always asking me about getting better and improving, and this is my advice to you all.




A. Your art does NOT suck.


For the love of the planet, PLEASE stop saying this. Your art may not be at the same level as someone else, maybe your family member, your friends, classmates or idols, but that does NOT mean it sucks. Maybe it isn't the style you want? That does NOT make ti suck either.


B. Why can't I get better?


First, do you even lift practice? I know it seems dumb and a lot of people are busy with life. So am I. I have a full time freelance job and I was in college full time for 6 years (12-15 credits every single semester) and I find time to practice. There are TONS of times during the day you have to practice.

1. Get a sketchbook or at least a binder to keep loose leaf paper in. I don't give a damn if you hate them. Deal with it. You want to be able to practice at any time anywhere? GET A BOOK. They have tiny books that are as small or smaller than an index card! If you don't know what that is, it's a handy-dandy piece of paper that is 3.5x5 inches. Yeah, they make books that tiny.

2. But you don't have time? I call BS. You have time once you get up, maybe 5 min, doodle a dream or just a stick figure, something. Are you in school? During lunch or before class, maybe in between classes. Got a study hall, maybe see if the teacher/monitor is ok with it. You at home and want a break from homework? Instead of checking your phone and wasting time, get out and doodle something. Waiting on dinner or watching TV? You got time to draw. You playing games? You got time to draw. You get in bed? Take another 5 min and do a quick doodle. Maybe you and how you feel your day went. Maybe something funny that happened or your feeling about tomorrow.

3. I can't think of what to draw. OMFG do you have eyes?! Draw what you SEE, literally. One of the best ways to get better is to do what is called "Direct Observational Drawing". That means you draw literally what you see. You on the bus? Draw a classmate or the rows of seats. That's great for perspective! In the lunchroom? Draw your food or a drink, that's a still life. At home? Draw some of your favorite things, maybe pause a movie or TV and do a quick drawing of the screen. Maybe a pet! I don't give a damn if they are moving, it's good practice. XD Yes it might be BORING, but gives you practice on seeing things.

EVERYONE can see, even those who are blind, they simply see in a different way than we do. Artists are special in that we all see different than the average person. Learning to draw is NOT about learning how to draw. Your hand can already make any motion, stroke, line you need it to. Learning to see will make a huge difference in your art. What do I mean? The difference is this (PLEASE an example, neither are good or bad)

Symbols vs reality


This is what most people think of when they think of a tree, or similar. But does it REALLY look like a tree? Compare all of these photos against each other and the symbol! Trees all vary greatly and how is your drawing showing the true character and shape and texture of that tree?

Clipart Tree by ArtCrumbss   'That Tree' by kharashov tree by mandragolaa  The Tree by TwiggyTeeluck
The Tree by Konijntje  tree by mR-StIck

So again, see how each of them are different? By drawing from REAL life, you get to practice in seeing how each and every object is unique and different in it's own right. Every pet, human, phone, houseplant, plate, bowl, fruit, etc is all different. Observational drawing is the best way to train yourself to see them. After time practicing this, you'll find it easier to see what your mind sees?

Ever wonder why you struggle in seeing the ideas in your own head? It's because you don't understand how to see, period. Drawing what your eyes see can help train you to draw what your mind sees. :D



4. YOU DON'T HAVE TO POST IT! Damn the times I've heard "but I won't like it and I can't post it". Who gives a crap if you don't post it? You aren't making your art to make others happy. I don't post most of what I do. XD It's OK if it doesn't come out the way you want it to! That's why it is called practice. I have some sketchbooks I'll NEVER show people because it's a personal practice book. lol It's full of drawings I don't like but I practice anyway.


C.  I can't get a book / I only do digital art!


Congrats on shooting your own foot. If you plan on keeping art as a hobby, I advise you get a book for practice or at least keep a binder filled with the drawings you do on loose paper. That's ok too, as long as you keep drawing ON PAPER in some way. This advice isn't as important to you hobbyists, unless you want to keep growing as an artist. Why is it important? Drawing digitally keeps you afraid if mistakes. What is the number one reason people like digital art? I love my undo button and I can fix mistakes.

This is the one thing that drives me insane when I hear it.

 For the record, I love my digital media too. I use it often, HOWEVER, I still do a LOT of traditional drawing. I draw in ink, a medium that scares a LOT of people. Why? "You can't fix ink".

The results are in and the lie detector said that is a lie.

Ink is fixable! Amazing, right? There is white ink, process white, ink eradicators, white out even works! (those pens I mean) If you know the medium well enough you can fix it! It's all about practice. Pencil? Fixable. Watercolor? Fixable. Acryllic? Mega-fixable. Oils? Fixable. Yeah it might not have an undo button and you'll have to work a little harder to fix things but that's OK. Giving you traditional skills gets you over the "perfect syndrome" and helps with anxiety over making mistakes.

Don't have money for supplies?  They don't have to be the best! A simply #2 pencil and copy paper is ok! Just draw in a traditional medium to help keep your hand loose and body relaxed about drawing. It'll help you mentally and give you confidence.

Now, on the professional side? I know a LOT of people with AMAZING digital work and shotty traditional work. It makes me so sad. Why? A lot of professionals and employers want to see BOTH traditional and digital skills. You don't need to be equally good, however you need to be able to be in a business meeting and work. You might not have a tablet, ipad, or anything digital. If you are there and can't perform... well that might be a bad thing. XD Not saying it 100% will be, but you need those skills.

Now on the flip side, anyone who is Traditional only, you need to have digital skills too. If it's Sai (only 40-50$) and others like Krita, Gimpa, FireAlpaca are free. You DON'T have to have a fancy-schmancy art program.


E. So here is what I'm trying to say.


Anyone can draw, literally anyone and everyone. Everyone and anyone can see, some see differently than others. Everyone wants to get good FAST and you can't do that without effort. Yes, there are always going to be those people who improve fast. They are in their own category and they are NOT better than you. They are simply in a place where they learn faster or it comes easier to them.

Remember that getting good at something requires effort. There is no magic, no secret, no potion or tool to make you a better artist. It's time and effort. Effort is the only thing you can do to increase your skill faster, you can't mess with time.

What about school/college for art? Up to you. If you want the guidance, go for it. I helped me a ton and I credit my skills to my education. It's not for everyone, so that's your choice to make, not mine. Start small with local classes at an art center or community/trade college. Those are cheaper and might give you a push you want or need. If it doesn't seem enough, go for more classes.




PLEASE stop saying your art sucks.
PLEASE stop comparing yourself.
PLEASE stop making excuses for not practicing if you want to improve.

Now on the flip side, I know there are people with parents who are not supportive. It can be hard when your family makes huge efforts to stop you doing art. I honestly don't know what to advise you except to keep a book in a locker or have a friend keep it for you. Maybe talk to an art teacher for school counselor. There are a lot of people who DO care about you and want to help, but you have to be the one to go outside of your shell and ask.

I don't care if you have anxiety. I know there is a clinical anxiety, but I know some people who use it as an excuse to do nothing. If it's a clinical thing, talk to your psych/counselor about it. You too have options, you just have to make an EFFORT to figure out what will work for you.

Anyway, I'll open the floor to you guys.

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I was asked to do a paper on somebody that isn't well know... Well I figured Mr. Irie wasn't well known... in America. So I figured I would do my paper on him. I managed to find him on Facebook, and asked him if I could interview him and use those answers in my paper.

:iconexcitedlaplz: He said yes. ;3

*All the answers were translated with Google translator... So they are going to not be perfect translations. I hope my Japanese was good enough though.


Q1. Where were you born and when? Did you grow up there?

A- Hikari, Yamaguchi Prefecture, was born in. I was living there until graduating from high school.

Q2. As a child, did Irie-san have any idea what your career would be when you grew up?

A- When I was a child (11 years), I thought of becoming a potter. Around the end of junior high school (age 15), wanted to become an animator.

Q3. When did you start drawing, and what kinds of things does Irie-san like to draw most?

A- In high school (aged 16 to 18 years) attended the classroom paintings. Studied drawing and oil painting there. At the same time, flowers and personal accessories, and drew buildings.

Q4. When did Irie-san realize when Irie-san wanted to be an animator?

A- He died at the end of the junior animators. Animators began work after graduating from high school.

Q5. Irie-san have done many different jobs in the animation process. Does Irie-san have one that he prefer? (Director, key animator, etc)

A- Director, storyboards, scenarios, most prefer to work for them.

Q6. Which one does Irie-san think is the hardest?

A- Can come up with better ideas A6 ·. Well be healthy, it is important the most important.

Q7. Many people, or at least my friends, know Irie-san for your work as director of Hagane no Renkinjutsushi and Brotherhood. While Irie-san were creating it, at first, did you ever think it would get as popular as it is?

A- I know that many people at work Alchemist. I am aware of. You are very happy. My previous job, I think many people are not known.

Q8. Does Irie-san have a single project Irie-san are the most proud of?

A- KURAU Phantom Memory

Q9. While Irie-san is working, does he have any habits that help him work? (Listening to music, drawing in the margins of your paper, whistling, etc)

A- Listen to the Sound Track of the work that participate.

Q10. Being a director, of any department, sounds like a very difficult task. Irie-san seem to be directing more often, does he want to direct even more in the future?

A- Yes, Forever.

Q11. Has Irie-san ever worked on animations other than anime or cartoons? (Advertising, video games, etc)

A- Small number, has been working.

Q12. I am actually an animation student, and I have been studying for about 2 years now. Soon, next summer, I will need an internship. Did Irie-san intern somewhere, and what was it like?

A- I do not experience a period of internship. Started work immediately.

Q13. I want to intern in Japan, and I, am working on making my portfolio. This is very difficult for me, so what kinds of things should someone consider while making an animation portfolio?

A- Unfortunately, I have an internship is familiar. As far as I know, I think Japanese animation company no internship.

Q14. Any other advice Irie-san can give an animation student about the road ahead. Any advice would help.

A- To become animators "draw a picture" is that it is most needed. The picture on the drawings. All objects should be able to draw a line alone. Ability to color is not very necessary. Character, household goods, buildings, cars, everything should be able to draw forth. Every day, draw a line drawing. Drawing, Drawing, and Drawing.

            Thank you!

            -Yasuhiro Irie.


-I hope he doesn't mind me sharing this with you... I just thought it was so awesome. :3


Again, I was so excited that he answered me and was willing to help me out. I felt bad asking him so many questions. ^^;

:iconhandsomeonionplz: Make sure you guys show him some love, and check out Phantom Memory. I have seen a little bit, and it is AWESOME. XD I do plan to watch more and do some fanart sometime. :3

Also, while waiting for his reply, I drew this:



I'll probably do one of Phantom Memory though... Better and I'm sure he'd like it better. :meow:


EDIT: I added what happened to my paper now...

YAY!!!

I got a 100% on my paper of Yasuhiro Irie. Ehehehe


Thanks for reading! I love you guys. :la:

Kat

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