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The blueprint of... is an article serie where we’re taking a closer look on an Artisan Crafts deviation and how it's made.


Today we are dissecting corset with gussets by crissycatt




corset with gussets by crissycatt corset with gussets detail by crissycatt corset with gussets side view by crissycatt


First off, please introduce yourself?


I’m Cristiane, a 26 years old fashion student from Brazil that has a love affair with corsets.


Please explain what we are viewing.


You’re viewing an underbust corset made with veg-tan leather that has been tooled; red heavy weight satin; coutil (strength and lining); spring steel bones; 10” busk; waist tape and grommets. This corset is part of my graduation collection (fashion BA).


Can you describe for a layman how it’s made?


After deciding about how the overall design of the corset will be, I start drafting it’s pattern, then proceed to making a mock-up to adjust whatever needs to be adjusted, I find mock-ups essential on corsetry, specially when dealing with leather; such an unforgiving material to sew.

Once I’m confident enough about the fit of the corset, I take the pattern pieces I want to tool and design a tooling pattern for them. After I’m happy with the design, the leather is cut; the pattern is transferred onto the leather and tooled using craftool stamps, giving depth and texture to the design; and then cut with a scalpel at the filigree bits. The leather is dyed, oiled and sprayed with a coat of lacquer.

The coutil strength layer and lining are cut, and so is the satin, and everything is sewn. Then I cut the steel boning to proper sizes, round it’s edges and tip them with tipping fluid. Once the tipping fluid is dry, the bones are inserted onto the corset and the edges are bound. The tip of the gussets are flossed to make them more neat and sturdy and the grommets are set. That’s it I think.

corset with gussets by crissycatt corset with gussets detail by crissycatt corset with gussets side view by crissycatt

What tools did you use?


I have workroom in my house, apart from dye/finish/glue which is done outside (toxic fumes), it’s where I do my stuff. I used leatherworking tools, such as craftool stamps, rawhide mallet, scalpel, swivel knife, modeling tools, safety beveler, v-gouge, punches; and an industrial sewing machine for this piece.


What was your inspiration in creating this?


The references used for this corset and the collection it belongs to are the gothic revival and Victorian Era.


How long time did it take you to make this?


Around three weeks. I had many issues that led to another issues while making this corset, damn Murphy’s Law.

corset with gussets by crissycatt corset with gussets detail by crissycatt corset with gussets side view by crissycatt

Did you run into anything unexpected while creating?


As mentioned on the previous answer, I had problems every step of the way, figuring out the best way to make things takes a lot of trial end errors, at least for me…


Are you happy with the result?


Overall, yes. But there are a few issues I have to work on if I ever make this particular design again.


Where have you learnt your skills in this area?


Somewhat self-taught, somewhat taught by others. I do a lot of research over the net and read as many books I can afford on whatever I want to learn. But practice is the best way to learn skills I think.


corset with gussets by crissycatt corset with gussets detail by crissycatt corset with gussets side view by crissycatt

Do you take your own photos? Any tips you want to share for presenting your work?


I do take photos myself but they’re far from great. What I would advise is to get a good camera, with a good focal range, it just makes life easier.

I’m not a big fan of flash lights; I prefer natural light, something abundant here in Brazil, I’d avoid direct sunlight though.

Contrasting backgrounds also might help, if the piece is mostly dark in color, use a white background and if it’s light in color, go for a black background.


What is the best tip you can give to others wanting to test this craft/material/technique?


Practice, practice, practice!

Practice on scrap pieces before you take in a whole project when tooling. And check out www.leatherworker.net forum, they have tons of great info and lovely people there.

For corset making tips, go to community.livehournal.com/cors…, I’d advise anyone who wants to get into corset making to have at least an intermediate level of sewing skills. And always make mock-ups, especially if it’s the first time you’re using the pattern. You could use a ready made pattern as a starting point; there are many available for purchase at sewing supplies shops. Coutil is the most appropriate fabric for corsets, I use at least one layer on my corsets. Avoid using a one part eyelet, specially those that spread into a flower shape at the back, it doesn’t take the strain of lacing and ruins the laces, washers are a must!


Are you selling your work?


No, not at the moment, sorry!


tooled leather corset by crissycatt leather corset close-up by crissycatt leather mask by crissycatt
corset with gussets by crissycatt corset with gussets detail by crissycatt corset with gussets side view by crissycatt



Thank you crissycatt for participating and taking the time to answer my question!


//Myana
I'd love to recive suggestions for next "victim" to interview! Note me with a link to the deviation you'd like to know more about and I'll contact the deviant.

Also, let me know if there are any questions you are missing in this type of interview!





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Add a Comment:
 
:icontrinitynavar:
Trinitynavar Featured By Owner Jan 10, 2009
fantastic.....I love these corsets, it's great to hear more about them from the designer :)
Reply
:iconfairiesnest:
fairiesnest Featured By Owner Jan 9, 2009  Professional Artisan Crafter
Wonderful interview and gorgeous piece!
Reply
:icon2dazed:
2dazed Featured By Owner Jan 8, 2009
I wish I had a reason to wear that stuff. Hey! Maybe I'd finally be able to sell all of Lucien's old clothes if wearing that. :D
Reply
:icon50calwolf:
50calWolf Featured By Owner Jan 8, 2009
sweeet :D
Reply
:iconstudioharajuku:
StudioHarajuku Featured By Owner Jan 8, 2009   Artisan Crafter
Amazing piece, such detail. I know a few women that would kill for one of these.

A great interview, it really did explain alot about the work and the artist.
Reply
:icondannscreations:
DAnnsCreations Featured By Owner Jan 8, 2009  Professional Artisan Crafter
:wow::clap: That was fantastic! Thank-you! :glomp:
Reply
:icondarklinglena:
DarklingLena Featured By Owner Jan 8, 2009
:heart: Wonderful work. There should be more corsets on this site!
Reply
:iconopioid:
opioid Featured By Owner Jan 8, 2009  Professional General Artist
so awesome.
Reply
:iconfoxglove-honey:
Foxglove-Honey Featured By Owner Jan 8, 2009
Beautiful intricate cut outs mimic damask or tapesty fabric at first glance. Your attention to detail on the steel and lining will stand you in good stead when ever you feel ready to make them for sale. :trophy:
Reply
:iconsnowmask:
snowmask Featured By Owner Jan 8, 2009  Professional Traditional Artist
My lord. The craftsmanship is absolutely impeccable. A wonderful interview.
Reply
:iconcl2007:
cl2007 Featured By Owner Jan 8, 2009  Student Artisan Crafter
:clap: excellent!
Reply
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