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manu666tb
always learning...
Artist | Professional | Digital Art
Romania
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In between the political crisis in my country and my working on a few outfits for a future pictorial, I picked up Claire Shaeffer's book "Couture Sewing Techniques" and I found some interesting stuff; thought I'd share...

Two-piece ensemble by Valentino (1968)...


Lace-on-lace applique seam at the shoulder is practically invisible...


The lace on the sleeve is attached with a lace-on-fabric applique seam...


Bias-cut silk crepe dress by Madeleine Vionnet (1926)...

- diagonal tucks sewn by hand with the grain

B&W silk gazar gown by Balenciaga (1965)...

- this design relied on the cut, the fabric's characteristics and the wearer's movement for the intended effect: the raised front hem allowed the skirt to fill with air and billow out to form a cone.

The pleat at the shoulder is held in place on the inside by a pleat stay...


The lining of this Chanel jacket is quilted in rectangles to the plaid shell fabric...

- also, notice the chain weight at the hem to make the jacket hang smoothly

Metallic evening coat by Madame Gres for Alix (1935)...

- elaborate trapunto design on the front and sleeves and machine-stitched quilting on the back

Silk faille dress with pouffed harem skirt by Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior (1959)...

- the skirt is held up by two tulle underskirts and the skewed ruffles at the hemline; the fullness is controlled on the right side with a band near the hem


"Compiegne" gown by Christian Dior (1954)...

- silk satin with cut velvet roses; the fabric was woven with extra silk warps that were cut by hand to make the roses "bloom"

Goes to show that creativity can also be expressed in technique, not just in design.

If you know similar stuff, please share...

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:iconsillyselly:
Sillyselly Featured By Owner Nov 8, 2014  Hobbyist Digital Artist
thank you for the watch! ^w^ *bows* <3
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:iconmcmanamanimation:
McManamanimation Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2014  Professional General Artist
I know it was forever ago, but thanks for the watch! :glomp: 
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:iconsingapurastudio:
SingapuraStudio Featured By Owner May 19, 2013  Professional General Artist
Thank you so much for the watch! :)
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:iconmnivesse:
mnivesse Featured By Owner May 16, 2013  Professional Digital Artist
Thank you for the watch !
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:iconsingapurastudio:
SingapuraStudio Featured By Owner May 15, 2013  Professional General Artist
Thank you so much for the watch! :)
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:iconollustrator:
Ollustrator Featured By Owner Jan 16, 2013  Professional Digital Artist
Thank you very much! :hug:
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:icongl-gloria:
GL-Gloria Featured By Owner Nov 4, 2012  Student Interface Designer
Thank you for the critique on my entry for Designing Frenzy #2! I will definitely take your comments into account when working on the next! <3 <3
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:iconmanu666tb:
manu666tb Featured By Owner Nov 5, 2012  Professional Digital Artist
You have great design ideas <3
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:icongl-gloria:
GL-Gloria Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2012  Student Interface Designer
thank you :D i was just slightly butt hurt that things like styling and whatnot got me (waahhh D:)

the way i see it, is that the only thing that had mattered was *design* of the coat, and everything else was extra. there should be a point system so participants know *exactly* what the judges are looking for, like 3 points for styling, 3 points for presentation (coloring, drawing style, etc), and so on. Though I understand why that would take too long considering all the entries. Still, the judging system was weird.
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:iconmanu666tb:
manu666tb Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2012  Professional Digital Artist
Yeah, we tried that with the points in past challenges and it took so long that some people just gave up... Well, the styling always matters, it either makes it or breaks it. With a different styling, a design can look dated or it can look trendy. However, in your case, the styling didn't matter as much in the ranking, as it did in the feedback.
I, personally, look at the overall look, see if I get what it's trying to be, then I look at the details to see if the design could actually be constructed, if the designer thought about the fabrics and seams and all that; because that's what I think fashion design is about, even though here we just have the illustrations. And I try to underline what I think is the strongest point and the weakest in each design.
Btw, I really like The Garden 1; I didn't think that color could actually look chic, but it does. I totally pictured it on a skinny model in a magazine editorial.
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