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Previous Step: [link]
Step 5: Skeletoning the handle.
To me this step should be taken like tapering the tang of a knife. Some makers don't do it, because sometimes it isn't needed. Some people also like heavier handled knives or like a thick handled knife. Even if you like a thick handled knife and don't plan on tapering the tang, but you still want to try and balance the knife out. This step is recommended. In most cased, although not all, I taper and skeleton my handles.
While there are many other ways to do this, I like to do it this way. It's not the easiest way to skeleton your handle. The easiest way would be to simply using a large drill bit and making big holes through the handle, without making the handle weak.
Personally I like skeletoning my handles by using triangles. I usually use 1/4", 3/6", and 1/8" drill bits to make the holes with in the triangles I've roughly drawn onto the handle.
This step isn't absolutely needed, but in many cases it's just another sign of a quality made knife. This helps in a few ways. I will be tapering the tang to balance out the knife, but I will also be doing the same thing to the blade while filing it down to hand a sharp edge. Since the blade isn't big enough, just tapering the tang won't balance out the knife enough once the added weight of the handle material is put onto the knife.
Because of these factors, I skeleton the handle, to help balance out the knife as much as I possibly can without weakening the knife.
After drilling the holes out, I use my round chainsaw files to link the holes. I usually switch between the different sizes of files as I go, using the smaller one to get close to the corners of the sketched triangle before going back with a triangle file and cleaning it up a little bit.
Since this isn't a take down knife and the chances of someone taking the handle off are pretty slim, I usually don't spend a whole lot of time making the triangles perfect. The main point is just to remove as much metal as possible, while keeping the handle strong.
Eventually, depending on how good your blade and/or handle material is, your handle will probably be taken off, refurbished, or replaced. The idea is to make knives that will last a life time. When they take off your handle, you really have to think of what they will see. Then again if it actually lasts a long time, I suppose that is an accomplishment in itself. It all depends on how you look at it, if your knife actually needs this, or how it could reflect upon your work later on.
I would like to be thought of as at least a decent maker. I probably won't ever be a well known maker, but even if I'm never known or when I'm forgotten. It would be nice to have one of my knives re-handled and them think 'this was a pretty good knife'.
Next Step: [link]
On another note!!!
I think the unicorn tooth fairy stole my black permanent marker. ;_;
Logan Pearce
www.pearceknives.com
Step 5: Skeletoning the handle.
To me this step should be taken like tapering the tang of a knife. Some makers don't do it, because sometimes it isn't needed. Some people also like heavier handled knives or like a thick handled knife. Even if you like a thick handled knife and don't plan on tapering the tang, but you still want to try and balance the knife out. This step is recommended. In most cased, although not all, I taper and skeleton my handles.
While there are many other ways to do this, I like to do it this way. It's not the easiest way to skeleton your handle. The easiest way would be to simply using a large drill bit and making big holes through the handle, without making the handle weak.
Personally I like skeletoning my handles by using triangles. I usually use 1/4", 3/6", and 1/8" drill bits to make the holes with in the triangles I've roughly drawn onto the handle.
This step isn't absolutely needed, but in many cases it's just another sign of a quality made knife. This helps in a few ways. I will be tapering the tang to balance out the knife, but I will also be doing the same thing to the blade while filing it down to hand a sharp edge. Since the blade isn't big enough, just tapering the tang won't balance out the knife enough once the added weight of the handle material is put onto the knife.
Because of these factors, I skeleton the handle, to help balance out the knife as much as I possibly can without weakening the knife.
After drilling the holes out, I use my round chainsaw files to link the holes. I usually switch between the different sizes of files as I go, using the smaller one to get close to the corners of the sketched triangle before going back with a triangle file and cleaning it up a little bit.
Since this isn't a take down knife and the chances of someone taking the handle off are pretty slim, I usually don't spend a whole lot of time making the triangles perfect. The main point is just to remove as much metal as possible, while keeping the handle strong.
Eventually, depending on how good your blade and/or handle material is, your handle will probably be taken off, refurbished, or replaced. The idea is to make knives that will last a life time. When they take off your handle, you really have to think of what they will see. Then again if it actually lasts a long time, I suppose that is an accomplishment in itself. It all depends on how you look at it, if your knife actually needs this, or how it could reflect upon your work later on.
I would like to be thought of as at least a decent maker. I probably won't ever be a well known maker, but even if I'm never known or when I'm forgotten. It would be nice to have one of my knives re-handled and them think 'this was a pretty good knife'.

Next Step: [link]
On another note!!!
I think the unicorn tooth fairy stole my black permanent marker. ;_;
Logan Pearce
www.pearceknives.com
Image size
1232x2880px 1.17 MB
Make
EASTMAN KODAK COMPANY
Model
KODAK EASYSHARE M873 ZOOM DIGITAL CAMERA
Shutter Speed
1/39 second
Aperture
F/3.1
Focal Length
6 mm
ISO Speed
400
Date Taken
Aug 23, 2007, 11:08:03 PM
© 2011 - 2025 Logan-Pearce
Comments5
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A black permanent marker snatching Unicorn Tooth Fairy?
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... I like step 5. Very insightful!
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... I like step 5. Very insightful!