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Kurokami-Kanzashi's avatar

GeikoHikizuriKitsuke Tutorial

This is something I decided to put together on a whim. I wanted to photograph my new ro geiko ensemble, so I decided to document the process of dressing the manequin with photos.

From those I've put together a very basic tutorial of how to achieve an authentic geiko look with your kitsuke. Great for cosplaying. If you need more detailed information check out these sites: [link] and [link]


Now, some vocabulary for beginners:
Geiko - Fully fledged geisha.
Hikizuri - Long kimono meant to be worn trailing.
Hadajuban - Undermost layer put on when donning kimono
Juban - Layer between the Hadajuban and the outer kimono
Hiyoku - Second layer of fabric around the collar and hem of the outer kimono. This is meant to give the illusion of wearing yet another layer under the outer kimono
Ohashiori - Waist fold used to adjust the length of the kimono.
Koshihimo - Fabric tie used to secure the kimono in place beneath the obi
Obi - Belt used when wearing kimono
Otaiko Musubi - Drum Knot. Style of tying the obi
Obijime - Decorative cord tied over top of the obi
Sensu - Japanese folding fan
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© 2009 - 2021 Kurokami-Kanzashi
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psiten's avatar
I've looked so long for information this detailed. Thank you so much!
How do I get my collar to stop slipping and stay nicely folded? At the back of my neck? The hiyuki part keeps being mean... how low should I put my collar? I have a shigoki to fill in for my momi but where should I start wrapping and where should i be looking to stop? Last question I swear! How low on my hips should i put my obi? BTW thank you for this tutorial it is amazing! I am finding out really fast how different from normal kimono a hiki is but it is fun to learn!
Kurokami-Kanzashi's avatar
Keep collar from slipping: Tie really tightly around your chest and use a korin belt. Use clothes pins when dressing to keep things in place.

How low should the collar be: We should be able to see the skin between your shoulder blades.

Wrapping the mommi: Stat wrapping from just above the widest part of your hips up to just under your bust.

How low to tie the obi: That really depends on where the obi will sit on your particular body. Try it a few times to see what looks good on you and where the obi naturally wants to sit on you.
xxice-maidenxx's avatar
hi! i know this might be a late reply, but a hikizuri collar should be pulled down to your shoulder blades, so i guess there isn't an exact measurement...

as for the obi, because hikizuri's are usually only worn by maikos, the obi should be wider than a normal obi, and the position should be fairly high, just below the bust.

im sorry if any of this information is false, since i am also pretty new to the whole kimono world ^_^'

hope this helps!
KazukiDeng's avatar
CassandraJames's avatar
Wow this is helpful!
Silver-Willow04's avatar
This has really helped me out! I have 2 hiki with hiyoku and I was wondering " how am i going to fold it!!! "

This helped IMMENSELY!

Thanks so much for posting this!
FantasyStock's avatar
:+fav: This tutorial is featured in "Costume Design 101" for Costume Week.

Thank you for sharing your design techniques with the community!
Kurokami-Kanzashi's avatar
Thank you very much for the feature!
bornahorse's avatar
Thank you! This is very helpful!!
I didn't know that wrapping the obi that way was considered "sexy". :XD:
Kurokami-Kanzashi's avatar
Thanks! That and wearing the obi lower on your hips is considered sexy.
bornahorse's avatar
That's hilariously awesome. :XD: (and convient for my Midna Kimono cosplay! YAY!)
lady-atropos's avatar
This is amazingly helpful. I recently bought my first ever hikizuri as you well know) and how to wear the thing is...puzzling. With much of the forums being on maiko attire, there is so little help for those who prefer the geisha.

Laerad's avatar
you are very knowledgeable and I am always interested in seeing your stuff, even though asian costumes are not something I do (aside from my very poor attempt at a Geisha costume for halloween a couple of years ago...) Since then, I have shortened the sleeves of my kimono to make them more manageable and use it as a very chic dressing gown when I sleep over go to a spa !
HasturCTS's avatar
You have the best tutorials - and some of the coolest stuff to make them for. Thank you for this.
Kurokami-Kanzashi's avatar
Glad you enjoy them!
siren10101's avatar
hmm know all i need is the kimono...
ShadowWingLG's avatar

This will come in HANDY...I thought the order was hadajuban -> juban -> nagajuban and a han eri was sewn onto the nagajuban...or do I have my layer order mixed up...again x_X
Kurokami-Kanzashi's avatar
Also, as far as I remember nagajuban and juban are the same thing. So the layering would be hadajuban -> nagajuban -> susoyoke (another item I didn't put on the manequin) -> kimono.

The han'eri is sewn onto the nagajuban (juban).
Kurokami-Kanzashi's avatar
Thank you! It seems you've caught my mistake! You are right the bottom layer is a hadajuban, not a nagajuban. I've gone ahead and corrected that. Hee hee, I always get those two terms confused because I just call my juban, juban and I don't own a hadajuban, so I've never had to differentiate.
ShadowWingLG's avatar
No problem! Years ago my friend (and current roommate) got me a vintage kimono for Christmas, I spent the next 2-3 months looking into how to wear it and all the proper undergarments.

I have a Hadajuban (which looks a bit like you juban above)and a Nagajuban (which is actually made from patterned material) Haven't seen a susoyoke...need to look up what that is again.

Someday I'll need to post up the pics of it.
taeliac's avatar
Not only is this a rather useful tutorial, but it's an absolutely fantastic reference for drawing!! Thank you :love:
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