How to make a Hidden Blade Written Tutorial

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Shared tutorial with :iconkiingcannibal: I helped a significant amount on the design and build, but she wrote up the tutorial. Have fun building.

Yes I'm talking about the Assassin's Creed Hidden Blade, note that this design will extend out to how far you flex your hand, will retract when you let go of the trigger and lock if you choose to continue to the Bonus and read how to make it lock.
If you have any questions feel free to ask!! <3

Please don’t go around stabbing people and such this is purely for cosplay, I'm in no way responsible for your actions, or what you do with this design.

How to make the Hidden Blade.
Heres the links to the picture tutorials, accompanied with the written tutorial making your hidden blade should be a breeze. =3



• Full extension drawer slider 14 inches - 3 tier (3 tier is the standard) (DO NOT GET A SIDE MOUNT GET THE MIDDLE MOUNT the flat one.)
• Extension springs ¼” x 1 ½” 8.46lbs work weight (looks thick and fat)
• Flat head Phillips drive screws  size#8-32 (thread) x 2”(long)
• Pack of key rings
• Fishing line
• Blade (either find a blade you like and make sure it’s the right size to fit your mechanism you’ll know after the mech is made or cut out your own from metal sheeting, aluminum is recommended.)
• Industrial Strength Velcro
• Old belt

• Pliers
• Dremmel
• Drill
• Scissors
• Metal File
• WD-40


1. Take out your drawer slider and take off the top tier by pushing the black latch that’s under it.

2. You should have 2 tiers and a ball bearing track now.

3. Bend the metal tab at the end of the BIGGEST (third) tier and slide your second tier out. Two black strips and ball bearings will come out, just set them aside, you will not need them. Do not throw them away, just in case you lose any ball bearings, these can be the replacements.

4. Put away the first and third tier you will not need them.

5. Take your second tier that has the ball bearing slide in it and pop out the black tab that’s at the end (DO NOT LOSE), then slide out the ball bearing slider. (BE CAREFUL NOT TO LOSE THE BALL BEARINGS!! And try to keep them clean, if they become de greased just spray the track with some WD-40)

6. Cut down the 2nd tier to a comfortable length with your arm, where you can extend and curl your wrist comfortably. (DO NOT CUT OFF THE SIDE THAT YOU JUST REMOVED THE BLACK PLASTIC PIECE FROM. And make sure you file down any metal parts you cut!!!!!)

7. Take the ball bearing track and cut it down to three square openings, it should hold 6 ball bearings on each side. (You can have it longer or shorter depending on the length of your 2nd tier. This is the shortest length it can be cut and work proper however.)

8. Take your 2nd tier and bend (pinch with pliers) in the end sides (not the side with the black plastic piece) this makes it so the ball bearing track won’t fall out.

9. Now take your ball bearing track and Drill a hole on the biggest parts of the metal which is in between the first and second rectangular holes, and in between the second and third rectangular holes, drill holes big enough for your screws to fit. Not too big though!!

10. Take the metal sheeting you have or if you have a blade or make a cardboard cut out, this is just your tester blade, cut it to fit the ball bearing track and 2 drill holes corresponding to the ball bearing track.

11. Now take your ball bearing track and flip it upside down to where the “prongs are facing down” and place your blade on top of it, put in the screws and the nuts to hold on the blade.

12. Now take the black plastic piece you removed from the 2nd tier and drill a hole in line with the holes on the ball bearing track, run a screw through the hole, with the head facing the underside of the slider and the long part coming out the topside.

13. You can now see if your screws are too long which if you got the exact screws I mentioned then yeah they’re way too long. XD Take them out and cut them down to size. Roughly half the length.

14. Put all screws back on, and the nut on the first screw closest to the blade. Not the other nuts yet though!

15. For the ball bearings tracks screws not to catch on the 2nd tier’s rectangular cutouts simply take a dremmel and cut out the middle of the 2nd tier but leave a good inch of track at the pinched in end and do not cut any further than a half inch infront of the first hole that’s in front of the black pieces hole. (File down those sides you just cut)

16. Now take the ball bearing track and place it into the 2nd tier track, blade should be facing toward the pinched end of the track, its time consuming but put all those ball bearing back their track.

17. Put the black piece back into the 2nd tier track.

18. Take one of your springs and put it over the second screw on the blade and the screw on the black piece, put on the nuts tight.

19. Almost done!!!!

20. Now take some fishing line and tie it tight under the second screw on the blade, slip it over the nut so it will stay. Run the line to your middle or ring finger while your hand is in a fist, measure a little longer for tying length and tie the line around a key ring of your liking. It’s better if the key ring rests on the first digit of your finger so make it a relatively small ring.

21. Test the line to make sure it’s the right length, the tracks should slide freely and the blade should extend to the end of the track.

22. Now take some industrial strength Velcro and cut a little strip of it, place it on the underside of the mechanism at the front of the track, in that inch or so of metal before the big hole you cut out.

23. Take another strip and place it on the underside of the mechanism at the end of the track, between the hole you cut out and the black piece. (DO NOT PLACE IT ON THE BLACK PIECE)

24. Now take a belt and wrap it around the points on your arm where the Velcro corresponds to your arm.

25. Cut the belt, you should have 2 strips for this attachment.

26. Take 2 strips of Velcro and attach them to the ends on the belts.

27. Attach the straps to the Velcro on the mechanism and wa-la! You’re hidden blade is all done!! It will slide out as far as you flex your hand and will retract if you let go of the keying!!

Option 1:

To make the blade lock and stay in the “unsheathed” position simply take your dremmel and carve out a little notch like a hook at the end of the 2nd tier track roughly a half inch or quarter inch away from the "pinched in" end, make the notch where the 2nd keyring is at its highest point while on the fishing line and where your blade is at the end of the track fully extended. Attach a small keyring to the middle of the fishing line! The newly added keying should catch the hook when you flex your hand and it should stay there until you over flex and undo it. =3

Option 2:

• Soldering Iron
• Scrap to solder or actual soldering wire

The second way to make the blade lock in the "unsheathed" position is to take a piece of scrap metal and carve it with your dremmel into a hook shape. Then solder this scrap to the (depending on what arm your mech is on, this one was on my left) left side about a half inch down from the "pinched in" end. And attatch the keyring to the line. Make sure your blade is fully extended to the end of the track AND the keyring is locked on the hook at its highest point.
I will post picks in the coming week or so when i put the lock on my 2nd mech. <3

Have fun making your blade but remember don’t go around stabbing people and such this is purely for cosplay and as such, my blade is dulled as yours should be. Have fun building.

© 2011 - 2020 IcedSteelWolf
anonymous's avatar
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redacted117's avatar
does it depend on the company that makes the ball an bearing drawer slide 
ITBEDOMINICHobbyist Traditional Artist
IcedSteelWolf's avatar
IcedSteelWolfHobbyist General Artist
this is what it looks like.… In the United states, its a very popular houshold standard item, as common to find as duct tape is. We silly americans have a saying. "if it moves, and it shouldn't', Use duct tape. If it doesn't move or moves slow but should move or move fast,  Use WD-40." WD-40 is a spay or pouring oil designed to lubricate and clean. Most useful in its most common stop a squeaky door hinge. it works well for loosening rust between spots you cannot reach.
Ghostwarrior242's avatar
Could you give me a link to the drawer slides please can't find any that are what you said to look for ;)
superwholockassassin's avatar
superwholockassassinHobbyist General Artist
How many screws are needed for it?

Computerman25495's avatar
Woah ..... this is both awesome and easy to follow Dance!  ..... Thank you very much random person from the internet Winner 
IcedSteelWolf's avatar
IcedSteelWolfHobbyist General Artist
thanks, credit for the tut goes to the creator tho, i was just a really helpful friend in the matter.
SuperSonicJr's avatar
SuperSonicJrHobbyist Digital Artist
Also, I don't have all the tools.
SuperSonicJr's avatar
SuperSonicJrHobbyist Digital Artist
I tried this... Until I couldn't get the black thing in the 2nd tier to come out.
Marcusaw's avatar
About how long was the blade that you used? i saw the video on raven's but it looks like the blade digs into the palm a bit which I don't think would be too comfortable wether the blade is sharp or not. I love the tutorial and how detailed it is. Cant wait to start on mine.
IcedSteelWolf's avatar
IcedSteelWolfHobbyist General Artist
Her blade is 5& 3/4ths inch. but with your size, you may need a slightly longer blade. Focus first on making the mechanics work, then you can add in the size of blade you would need for you. its largely made so that you can change the shape/length of blade, for those of you who like a different style. personally, my fave type of blade is shaped like this [link] , and this [link] . So likely when/if i get the time to build my own, i will base or build mine in the likeness of those. again tho, the shape/length is up to you.
Marcusaw's avatar
Cool blade choices. So your blade would be vertical instead of horizontal? (when laying flat) You should post pics of it when you make it.
And thanks for the length, I'll probably go with the cardboard suggestion from the tutorial before I decide my length then.
When I eventually make one, I'll probably go for the traditional style blade for the first time and maybe some modding but I'm not sure. I'll definitely send you the link to the pic when I'm done and make sure to credit your tutorial.
IcedSteelWolf's avatar
IcedSteelWolfHobbyist General Artist
Well, i meant to illustrate the point of being able to do any blade shape you wanted.
And thank you. Please also credit Ravendarkness7. I was just there for the help with the mechanical part.
Marcusaw's avatar
Alright, will do.
thomas595's avatar
Wanna make one, are three tiered drawer slides universally available? any help is helpful.
IcedSteelWolf's avatar
IcedSteelWolfHobbyist General Artist
they are available in SOME hardware stores. you can always order online.
thomas595's avatar
p.s. how long was the blade on yours since the length i intend to use is just under 8 inches and i read that the other person you did this with was rather short and had short arms but i was wondering how long the blade really was.
Tyr-Altair's avatar
I only have a 16 inch drawer slide. Will that work? :3
IcedSteelWolf's avatar
IcedSteelWolfHobbyist General Artist
not sure, jsut scale it all down. youe blade may not come out as far, but i can fathom it may work smaller.
thomas595's avatar
im assuming it would work the same since you are cutting it anyway.
IcedSteelWolf's avatar
IcedSteelWolfHobbyist General Artist
It depends on where and how you cut it. it should be easy to modify it. im sorry if im not much help. im a visual person. i have to work and feel and do it myself. as the reason raven couldn't do it alone, i had to physically come help her.
karasugi's avatar
karasugiHobbyist Artist
seemed nice, until i saw a imperial metrics and frightened gave up :scared:
(they should really standardized those metric stuff)
IcedSteelWolf's avatar
IcedSteelWolfHobbyist General Artist
I cannot help the fact that the world(nation) i live in hasnt' moved on to metrics. If you felt the desire to even try the project, consider conversion charts. otherwise, i cannot do anything about the measurements. I am sorry.
Charles418's avatar
Hi, could you make a picture tutorial for the bonus? i really want to make the lock system but i'm french canadian and i don't understand the bonus very well... A picture tutorial would be really helpful ... I start making my hidden blade as soon as you answer me, nice guide it is really appreciated,
Merci beaucoup! ^^
anonymous's avatar
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