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Hypercats's avatar

Lanard X-8 Jakobs Rare paintjob WIP

Testing out some new clear vinyl and some alternative woodgrain techniques. This gun's not done yet, but I'm excited about how well it's coming along! The filigree pattern is ripped straight from the Borderlands 2 PC files. I can't decide if I want them to be this dark though. I started with a MUCH lighter print and it was barely visible. Eh. We'll see. I got another set of these decals to play around with. 
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DAHAK-II's avatar
:star::star::star::star-half::star-empty: Overall
:star::star::star::star::star-empty: Vision
:star::star::star::star-empty::star-empty: Originality
:star::star::star::star::star-half: Technique
:star::star::star::star-empty::star-empty: Impact

really good job on the wood grain! might want a look at the lighter stripes just above where your thumb would rest, assuming you're right handed, they stand out too much. you may want to add a spacer between the cylinder and barrel housing, the gap looks WAY too big. I noticed the CE impression on the barrel. if you get bored you may even want to fill in the hammer with an epoxy clay. the pattern does seem a few shades too dark, it might be easier to change the tone of the gun rather than muck with the tone of the filigree. . .
Hypercats's avatar
Yeah, The woodgrain isn't my best, I was trying some different brushes and brushstrokes. Those lines you pointed out are way too fat and heavy.  The surface of the grip is terrible for trying to paint the woodgrain on because of all the little dimples. I might try sanding down the grip so it's more smooth. 

The filigree pattern should actually be easier for me to change than the chrome paint. :3 I work heavily in Photoshop and Illustrator, and I've already tried printing two sets of the filigree pattern in lighter shades and they were too light. At least now I have a set of dark ones that I can work backwards from instead of starting as light as possible and making them darker. 

Thanks for the feedback!
wallapatuconk's avatar
That is a very pretty paintjob.  Great style too!
That may well be the most spectacular metal "paintjob" I have ever seen. The idea to do this sort of pattern with decals is pure gold! As DAHAK-II pointed out, you may want to fill the space between the cylinder and the barrel. I have  experimented a little and the plunger volume of the Rotator is actually big enough to support short 17/32" brass barrels (which could double as a support for an extended cylinder) - something to think about, if you like performance mods, too.
Survivor1243's avatar
It looks beautiful
GHancock's avatar
So the filigree is literally just printed and pasted on, or it's temporarily photochopped so you can see how it would look?  The gun certainly seems to be coming along!
Hypercats's avatar
Yep, it's a series of decals that I made and applied to the gun prop.
GHancock's avatar
Very cool.  I've wanted to get my mitts on a printer that can do solid colors/white, but I can see printing decals using shades from black to clear as well.
Tigadee's avatar
That is gorram shiny!
Hypercats's avatar
Thanks! It's Krylon metallic. It's not bad for a rattle can and goes on thinner than bumper chrome.
Tigadee's avatar
Reference TV series Firefly: "Gorram" = "goddamn" and "Shiny" = "great, awesome or pretty"... In this case, I meant "That is goddamned awesome"!
Hypercats's avatar
Yep! I watch Firefly too!
Clayman8's avatar
i was actually going to ask if you had hand painted or carved that into it D:
I think it looks good this way,maybe 10% lighter or with a heavier line on the bottom of the filigree and lighter on the top to simulate top/down lighting.

I need to order one or two of these guns,they look so perfect for customs.

You want to go with a full filligree on it or just parts of it?
Hypercats's avatar
Thanks for the feedback! I'll take a look at the lighter tone decals that I printed out and see how those look. I might just want to adjust the levels so the blacks are still dark, but the greys are lighter. One of the issues with grey ink on silver is that it's grey on grey. It doesn't show up as well as grey on white, so the whitest area you're going to get is as light as the background silver. So in order to get the white "highlights", you have to lower the base grey color so that it's darker than the silver underneath. I'll never be able to truly recreate the filigree pattern right until I have white ink, since the base color around the filigree is the same color as the base color of the rest of the gun.

I also took this pic with my phone and 2 halogen lights so the lighting isn't really set up and I didn't do any color correction.

The design for the Jakobs rare revolver color scheme is wood handle, wood under the barrel, and filigree around the frame and cylinder, but not the whole thing. Like this:…

Clayman8's avatar
I was thinking,maybe try painting it white?
It seems a bit extreme however,and i doubt it will work well :S

Are you going to make it cell-shaded as well or just a realistic paint scheme with the printed filigree?  (sorry for all the questions,im curious that way)
Hypercats's avatar
Painting the underside white isn't a bad idea, really. Thanks for suggesting it! It does make sense to try to match the grey tones of the chrome paint by starting with a white base. However, since I'm using a clear decal, you can still see the shiny, metallic pigments of the chrome paint through the clear decal, so if I printed on a white decal or put a clear decal over the white, I'd lose that metallic effect. Now if I could make some metallic silver ink..... :D

I don't think I'll add any of the comic book style illustration lines or heavy black outlines. It's not really my style. I know a lot of cosplayers try for that effect in their costumes and it looks really cool. Some people do, some people don't.

Thanks for the suggestions!
Clayman8's avatar
Yeah i agree,Borderlands really only works in cosplay if you go with the comic book styling of the outfits,however i've rarelly seen people cell-shade their guns :S

I can understand the problem with the medium of printing though,however i think its already awesome that you tried it out at least! Its a great new option for all gun customizers out there :D

Best of luck with your experiments,you'll find something eventually that works
Hypercats's avatar
Thanks! The interesting thing is that the guns themselves don't look TOO illustrated when you look at them in the model viewer, so you can make them as realistic props and not be too far off from the in-game models. 

I've done clear water slide transfer decals before, and used them to make filigree for Mavericks and an airsoft gun. They work pretty well, but only if you're doing small, manageable pieces. This clear vinyl is much better for large sections.
RemoteCrab131's avatar
Bro you are blowing my mind, dat's not 3D but a real object?
Hypercats's avatar
Yep. It's a painted foam dart gun with some stickers on it. :3
RemoteCrab131's avatar
Totally surprised, I wish I could make my guns real too.  Currently working on a 3D printing project for school, which's one of my pistols.
Hypercats's avatar
That's cool. You should post pictures of your progress! I've done a lot of 3d printing and I'm still not a huge fan of it. I guess because I've been making props for so long that for most things, it's not that much easier than just scratch building parts. I have a lot of friends who use the 3D printers to make sci fi pistol replicas and Pipboys and objects that size, but I can already do that from scratch and resin cast them from molds I make. 

Have you thought about making your 3D gun models into papercraft or slices that you can assemble out of styrofoam or MDF? You can get the papercraft making software online, an there's a program called 123D Make that will take a 3D model, slice it up, and give you a pdf of the slices so you can print them out, cut the shapes out of whatever, and reassemble them. It's pretty fun.
RemoteCrab131's avatar
3D printing has a lot of imperfections, but as long as I know, It's capable of reassemble the functionality of the object you want very closely, though it can be only close.
I'm doing that project as a way to produce an interactive object for motion capture purpose, and if possible, for cosplay as well (and this is what i'm really excited about)

At least if the object is really complex, 3D printing might be a good idea. lol though I've told the tolerance is really complex to handle, double complexity!

I've tried papercraft before, but I found it's very inaccurate and I have to ignore a lot of smoothing and tiny details on the object.  Things like bone structure with Styrofoam or MDF case would be a good idea, but i'm way too far from the knowledge and tools. :P

I'll definitely post progress as I'll be finishing off the digital 3D model by this week, and if there isn't a long line up, i can get the piece printed very soon. :D

Thank you for the suggestion though, I'm going to look around to see if I can work around them. XD
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