Shop Forum More Submit  Join Login
PM 1911 by Hoborginc PM 1911 by Hoborginc
The is a fairly detailed M1911 papercraft, conisting of 8 pages for a complete model.

(NEW 3/5/19) Dark Gray WWI Version (Square guiderails, no instructions, PNG & PDF, st.ash)
Tan M45A1 Version (Square guiderails, w/ instructions, PNG, st.ash)
Black Classic & Modernized Versions (Old guiderails, PNG, SVG, st.ash)
White Classic & Modernized Versions (Old guiderails)
Light Gray Classic Version(Old guiderails, w/ instructions, PDF, st.ash)
Light Gray Modernized Version(Old guiderails, w/ instructions, PDF, st.ash)

FAQ:

Q: What are those extra panels at the bottom of the slide? How do I build the grooves?
A: Here's an illustration.. And here are the valley folds.

Q: How do I fold the guiderails?
A: Like this. Note that the narrowest face folds flat onto the widest face, forming a "shelf." The rest of it is a box. The M45A1 version has square guiderails, which are different, but are actually simpler, so you should be able to figure them out without needing a guide.

Q: How do I build the rail base on the modernized version?
A: Look at its front and back faces. They should provide an idea of how everything else is folded. Here's a picture.

Q: What are the "inner sections" of the slide (pg.2) and where do they go?
A: If the "bottom of slide" is a u-shaped half-tube, its "inner sections" are attached inside it, to the larger hatched areas. Their job is to keep the spring front cap and the barrel apart. Here's a photo. Although covered by the bushing, they are partially visible from the front.

Q: What is the difference between Classic and Modernized Version:
A: Classic is a normal M1911A1. Modernized has front serrations, extended barrel, extended beavertail, underbarrel rail, larger sights, and some cosmetic differences. The parts are interchangeable. It is possible, for example, to put a Modernized slide on a Classic frame, with a Classic barrel.

Q: What is the M45A1 Version?
A: It's a reskin of the Modernized version, with tan color, fancy grips, and some other minor changes. One notable internal difference is in the slide guiderails: They are square instead of triangular. It's an experiment to see if they would fit better. Results unconfirmed for now.
Add a Comment:
 
:iconoversights99:
Oversights99 Featured By Owner Feb 12, 2019  Student General Artist
Hello!, ive just finished the m45a1 model again, and the change to square guiderails actually makes it fit better and looks more accurate. also to expand the pm1911 models ive just reskinned the classic version to replicate the WW1 era m1911,using the SVG files you provided. So the changes are the markings, from the slide to the frame, including the use of a straight main spring housing, and the longer trigger. the part that i cant change as i consider too risky for me to change are the ergonomic shape around the trigger, so i need your help to finish it, as youre the original author of this model, so if you have the time and are interested as to finish this small redesign, i could provide you with the psd and the png files as i already remarked, rearranged and added extra parts for the grip.
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Mar 3, 2019
I'm sorry I haven't been online for a while. I'm not sure if you've already solved it independently in this time, but the idea of going back to the 1911 interested me enough that I've started working on it. 
So far I've made an adjustment to one of the frame walls - test build not very good right now. Another try wll be needed. However, to make it worth the time, I'm also making other small changes as I go. 
I don't think a longer trigger is really necessary, because, for better or worse, the current trigger is already pretty long, too long to resemble the M1911A1's trigger. I think it's already appropriate to pass as an early trigger.
I'm also putting the square guide rail tracks on the WWI model, as well as reducing the size of the grip safety and adding a floorplate loop and a lanyard loop.
The grip textures will also need to be redone. Are there any other changes that you've made on your redesign? 
Reply
:iconoversights99:
Oversights99 Featured By Owner Edited Mar 4, 2019  Student General Artist
well all i did was just a simple retexture so far such as the ww1 colt markings, and i already done the diamond grip textures all it needs is just the small readjustments and improvements for the paper parts. Here's the markings and the grips i've made.
  Ww1 1911 7 by Oversights99 Grip Textures  Ww1 1911 2 by Oversights99   Slide Markings
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Mar 5, 2019
Looking back on the checkering on the grips, I became so dissatisfied I went back and re-checkered them.
Also incorporated some of the same changes you mentioned. The trigger guard should be better now as well.
Other changes are the grip safety, which has been slightly reduced, and lanyard loops, which have been added to the bottom of the main spring housing and the magazine.
The only thing that's not correct yet is the hammer, which I haven't had a chance to widen. 
Otherwise, this should meet your intent or at least provide a better starting point for further modifications: Pm 1911 WWI

(I decided to set the color to 100-100-100 with a couple of highlights for the curved parts. Not sure how well it will turn out when it's done, but I figured the original light gray was too light and that 50-50-50 or 75-75-75 would be a bit too dark.)
Reply
:iconwolfeyankee:
WolfeYankee Featured By Owner Dec 3, 2018
Can you make a suppressor for this? Thanks
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Dec 14, 2018
Here's what I have so far: Octagonal Suppressor (Work in Progress)
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Dec 9, 2018
I've made some patterns for an Osprey octagonal suppressor for the 1911, but I haven't test built it yet, so I'm not sure how well it fits together or if there are any defects in it. I can share the current patterns if you're interested.
Reply
:icondespacitololxdddd:
despacitololxdddd Featured By Owner Nov 9, 2018
Should I try it with 200g?
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Nov 12, 2018
185g should be better. I'm not sure about the exact qualities of that paper, but I'd expect it would be better.
Reply
:icondespacitololxdddd:
despacitololxdddd Featured By Owner Nov 9, 2018
I tried building this thing with 160g and the side railings aren't in position and they end up being wonky. Do you have a solution for this?
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Nov 12, 2018
What do you mean about them being not in position? Are they deformed because they're too soft, or is something too narrow? Given that the slide and the frame both consist of a right, center, and left boxes, differences in width should stay consistent between them. I'm not sure what the solution is, but I'm curious to see where the problem is originating from.
Also, are you building the original model (With triangular grooves on the slide) or the M45A1 (with square grooves on the slide)?
Reply
:icongronotte:
gronotte Featured By Owner May 22, 2018
Hello! I would really like to make this but I don't understand how the pieces fit together. Do you have a numbered file so I can match what pieces to what. I'm new to papercrafting so I can't just fit it all together without more detailed instructions!
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner May 26, 2018
Which pieces? I can explain it with pictures.
Some of the common things people have trouble with are the guide rails and the bottom rail, or the overall shape of the slide walls.
Reply
:icongronotte:
gronotte Featured By Owner May 27, 2018
I ended up figuring out something else! In other pep files all the individual pieces have numbers on them with a matching number so you know how to glue together what pieces! Thanks though!
Reply
:iconviroxslasher:
viroxslasher Featured By Owner Feb 5, 2018
can i use chart paper ?
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Feb 6, 2018
With a grid on it? Of course you can use it, but I don't see why you would want to. 
If you are going to paint over it, then I suppose the grid wouldn't matter. But that's just a visual question.

Structurally speaking, the only thing that matters is that it's sturdier than printer paper. Recommended thickness 90lb/180gsm.
Reply
:iconviroxslasher:
viroxslasher Featured By Owner Feb 8, 2018
Thanks
Reply
:iconchrsitopher:
chrsitopher Featured By Owner Jan 3, 2018
Hola, tengo un problema, al momento de imprimir directo del pdf resultan que la hoja no es del tamaño A4, por lo cual al imprimir en su estado original, las piezas no salen completas, por los bordes de las hojas, y si decido reducir la imagen para que entre en el A4 pasa del 100% a 89% de la misma pagina y no me gustaría que el modelo del arma salga a un tamaño distinto al original del arma, me podrías ayudar?
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Jan 6, 2018
Sí, el tamaño de la imagen es en realidad más grande que el tamaño de la página. Está destinado a ser de esa manera.
Cuando lo imprime, debe reducirse para ajustarse a la página, por lo que el 89% es realmente correcto. De esta manera, sale bastante cerca (no exacto, pero cercano) ya sea que lo imprima en A4 o 8.5x11. (Además, las páginas de algunos modelos tienen una resolución aún mayor, por lo que el proceso de reducción mantiene la coherencia entre ellos).

Así que no te preocupes, es correcto.
Solo asegúrese de usar la misma configuración de impresión para todas las páginas para asegurarse de que se impriman de la misma manera.
Reply
:iconchrsitopher:
chrsitopher Featured By Owner Jan 8, 2018
Gracias por la ayuda, ya que estoy aqui, ¿El Lower Receiver del M4 es compatible con el del V3A416?, es que a la version del M4 se le mueve el gatillo en comparacion del otro, disculpa por la molestia.
Gracias por tus trabajos.
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Jan 8, 2018
Sí, los Lower Receivers tienen las mismas dimensiones.
Reply
:iconhugo-drax:
hugo-drax Featured By Owner Dec 15, 2017  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
I recently build the M45A1 >>Colt M45A1 Papercraft (Hoborginc)
I understand its a test version, here are somethings I noticed
i)I think one of the hammer parts is missing, what is reffered as the "large hole inside" fits in the small hole perfectly, but its to small to the large hole
ii)Looks like the glue part on "Rear section of rail" is inverted, but im not sure, once I dont know if my build is right

Anyway, I think is my fifth build from Hoborginc models. They are very functional and I enjoy the building itself. Thank you again for giving free templates. :D
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Dec 15, 2017
Thanks for letting me know! I'll definitely fix those issues. 
You're right about the rear section of rail. I think I added that hatched mark after the test build.
Glad you like it overall. It definitely looks like it came out well. Excellent build technique.
Reply
:iconmardjaderp:
mardJaderp Featured By Owner Nov 6, 2017
I was just about to ask if you could make the tan M45A1 and just noticed you did XD Thanks sir :D
Reply
:icon0mnic99:
0mnic99 Featured By Owner Oct 28, 2017
ok thanks a lot dude
Reply
:icon0mnic99:
0mnic99 Featured By Owner Oct 28, 2017
i can't find the link for the grey modernised with the red grip in the picture
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Oct 28, 2017
It's not actually a unique model. It's just the modernized slide on the classic frame.
They're the same in terms of dimensions, so feel free to mix and match components as you see fit.
Reply
:icon0mnic99:
0mnic99 Featured By Owner Oct 27, 2017
what kind of glue do i use?
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Oct 28, 2017
just ordinary Elmer's glue. Nothing special.
Reply
:icontitaniumtitan77:
titaniumtitan77 Featured By Owner Sep 28, 2017  Hobbyist General Artist
thanks heaps mate. That should be enough to get me started. Ill let you know if I have any troubles building it 
Reply
:icontitaniumtitan77:
titaniumtitan77 Featured By Owner Sep 26, 2017  Hobbyist General Artist
is it just plain printer paper? do I need to use something stronger or layer the paper?
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Sep 27, 2017
No, I wouldn't recommend plain printer paper. Too flimsy.
Use thick paper, available at a hobby store. Paper weight should be around 90lbs/185g.
But don't go too much thicker than that, or else you'll have trouble making curved parts and fitting things together.
Reply
:icontitaniumtitan77:
titaniumtitan77 Featured By Owner Sep 26, 2017  Hobbyist General Artist
what size print does the PNG file need to be to suit the exact size of each part. Also, what kind of paper or cardboard do you print it on?
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Sep 26, 2017
As long as each page is the same size, A4 or letter should be fine, although letter is more accurate.
Size of the PNG file doesn't actually matter, because it will go on the page anyway. Mine are actually 8.5x11," which is larger than the printable area of an 8.5x11" page.
Don't make it too small, because it will look low-res, but don't make it too big, because the filesize will be cumbersome.
Reply
:iconlieutenantpotato:
Are the the tabs inside the bottom of the slide walls meant to be folded inward twice now? (M45A1 with square guides)
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Sep 11, 2017
The outside face is longer than the inside face. The bottom face folds inward at a 45-degree angle, thus becoming horizontal. The tab attached to it also folds inward at a 45-degree angle, becoming parallel with the outside face (and attaching to the outside face). This leaves a part of the back of the outside face exposed.

The 'bottom track," being rectangular in cross section, attaches to the bottom of this exposed area, leaving (according to plan) a narrow space in between for the guide rail to fit into.
Reply
:iconlieutenantpotato:
LieutenantPotato Featured By Owner Sep 11, 2017
it works, slightly tight, but it works and is extremely reliable too. I'd also like to point out some errors, not to be rude, but simply because I'm one of an extremely small group building this experimental model. the strip of paper for the hole in the hammer is just barely too short. the base on the thumb extension (the part attaching to the left side) is a little long, and both the RH extension and the LH extension feel flismy, partly because the middle strip isn't properly lengthed. and finally, the small triangle(on the rail) for the rear of the left side of the slide is so small that it is easily broken, lost, or improperly attached, but i suppose there's no real fix for that.
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Sep 14, 2017
How well do the guiderails fit into the slide? It looks like there is some separation at the front. Is the space in the slide too big, or is it another issue?
Also, what's the matter with the texture? It looks a bit too rough.
Reply
:iconlieutenantpotato:
LieutenantPotato Featured By Owner Sep 14, 2017
the texture is cheap printer ink. The issue with the slide is my fault. the front of the frame is too tight, so at times the slide is squeezed upwards. but the guiderails fit amazingly well. much better than the old ones.
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Sep 12, 2017
Thanks, I haven't had a chance to test build this one, so I welcome any kind of corrections. 
Will read through it again and fix whatever I can.
Reply
:iconlieutenantpotato:
LieutenantPotato Featured By Owner Sep 13, 2017
I will be posting an image on my account if you'd like to see.
Reply
:iconlieutenantpotato:
LieutenantPotato Featured By Owner Sep 9, 2017
I remember in the comments of one of your posts you left a link to a paper pistol light, I can't seem to find it, would you mind linking it too me please? Thanks.
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Sep 9, 2017
No problem. Here it is.
Reply
:iconlieutenantpotato:
LieutenantPotato Featured By Owner Sep 9, 2017
I've come to realize while building the M45, (properly it's looks good, better than my 1911) that the grip/beavertail safety is about one millimeter give or take so too long
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Sep 10, 2017
Is the bottom of it too long (rubbing the mainspring housing), or the back too long (the beavertail itself)? Or do its faces not match up to each other? Just trying to figure out what to adjust.
Reply
:iconlieutenantpotato:
LieutenantPotato Featured By Owner Sep 10, 2017
The mainspring housing/backstrap interferes with it, so it's too long at the bottom.
Reply
:iconlieutenantpotato:
LieutenantPotato Featured By Owner Sep 9, 2017
Thank you very much.
Reply
:iconjason324:
Jason324 Featured By Owner Aug 29, 2017  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
Where do "Thread Protector" install in Modernized Version?
Reply
:iconhoborginc:
Hoborginc Featured By Owner Aug 30, 2017
Around the front end of the barrel.
It's visible in the cover photo.
Reply
Add a Comment:
 
×




Details

Submitted on
December 25, 2012
Image Size
619 KB
Resolution
844×842
Link
Thumb

Stats

Views
89,615 (30 today)
Favourites
218 (who?)
Comments
257
Downloads
8,039 (4 today)