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PM M1911
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By Hoborginc   |   Watch
Published: December 25, 2012
© 2012 - 2019 Hoborginc
The is a papercraft model of the famous Colt M1911 pistol, consisting of 8 pages.

(NEW 10/14/19) Gray WWI Version (Square guiderails, updated with instructions PNG & PDF, st.ash)
Tan M45A1 Version (Square guiderails, w/ instructions, PNG, st.ash)
Black Classic & Modernized Versions (Old guiderails, PNG, SVG, st.ash)
White Classic & Modernized Versions (Old guiderails)
Light Gray Classic Version(Old guiderails, w/ instructions, PDF, st.ash)
Light Gray Modernized Version(Old guiderails, w/ instructions, PDF, st.ash)

FAQ:

Q: What are the different versions?
A: The WWI-era version has original features like a straight backstrap, large hammer, and lanyard loops. It is also the most recent of my models, and has the most refined fit and finish.
The M45A1 is a tan-colored modernized build, with an underbarrel rail, ambi thumb safeties, long beavertail, front cocking serrations, raised sights, and very fancy grips. The model quality is missing some refinements, though.
The original Modernized version (white, light gray, and black) is similar, but with a threaded barrel. It's an early build, so the model quality is worse. The guiderail tracks are triangular, resulting in a fairly loose slide.
The original Classic version (white, light gray, and black) is an M1911A1 configuration, but with a large trigger. It's also an early build, with triangular guiderail tracks, and rather simplistic textures.

Q: What are those extra panels at the bottom of the slide? How do I build the grooves?
A: Here's an illustration.. And here are the valley folds.

Q: How do I fold the guiderails?
A: Like this. Note that the narrowest face folds flat onto the widest face, forming a "shelf." The rest of it is a box. The M45A1 version has square guiderails, which are different, but are actually simpler, so you should be able to figure them out without needing a guide.

Q: How do I build the rail base on the modernized version?
A: Look at its front and back faces. They should provide an idea of how everything else is folded. Here's a picture.

Q: What are the "inner sections" of the slide (pg.2) and where do they go?
A: If the "bottom of slide" is a u-shaped half-tube, its "inner sections" are attached inside it, to the larger hatched areas. Their job is to keep the spring front cap and the barrel apart. Here's a photo. Although covered by the bushing, they are partially visible from the front.
Image size
934x817px 531.97 KB
Comments267
anonymous's avatar
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therealocks's avatar
Just finished mine. It looks nowhere as near as clean as the photos but I'm still proud of myself.
atharxd1's avatar

Now that is a much more refined example of the M1911!!! Great work! However your refined build is of the world war 1 era. Would it be possible to replace the shorter grip safety and the flat mainspring housing on your newer build with those found on the older one? I prefer the look of the M1911a1 (classic) over the M1911 (world war 1 era).

SandofYellow's avatar
SandofYellowStudent Traditional Artist
I got a ton of Bristol Paper, tons of adhesive, and I was looking for a "simple" project to start, and Hoborginc comes through with this fantastic work, this is going to get good! Thank you!!
Hoborginc's avatar
Thanks! The only caveat is that the Bristol paper may be too thick. I typically test these with 90lbs/185g watercolor, lettering, or mixed media paper. If it's thicker (and Bristol might be 270g), then it won't curve as easily, and some parts might not fit together.
cesarwillian's avatar
cesarwillianNew Deviant

I´m with problems in the new version and the tan version. It shows that the page does not exist.

SomeoneCalledSkiOrca's avatar

I saw that printer paper look flimsy. Can we stack layers? And so, how many layers do you recommend?

Hoborginc's avatar
Really the best way is to get thicker paper at an art or hobby store. If you glue layers of paper together, it'll get slightly distorted.
SomeoneCalledSkiOrca's avatar

I don't have access to a hobby store or art store. But thx for replying to me. And also, what paper do you recommend to buy at a hobby or art store.

Hoborginc's avatar
It should specify the thickness on the cover. Somewhere around 90lbsor 185gsm is preferable. Printer paper, by comparison is 24-32lbs.
Ideally look for watercolor or mixed media paper, just make sure it's not too rough.
RedBaron537's avatar
Hi hoborginc, your papercraft guns looks awesome and even more awesome is building them keep in good work and i send you pics of M45A1 Img 20190828 161501 by RedBaron537   Img 20190828 161442 by RedBaron537  
Hoborginc's avatar
Ah, looks like a pretty crisp build. Maybe the printer or the camera has a bit of a red tint, but other than that it looks great. Good to see it fully built.
RedBaron537's avatar
That red tint is maybe because of my improvised curtain made from purple blanked
SonaClover's avatar
SonaCloverNew Deviant
Thanks Hoboginc, this M1911 dark gray WWI version is great.
67971945 441994263315565 4870756594591203328 N by SonaClover   67877362 492533734846568 4771038380374884352 N by SonaClover  
Hoborginc's avatar
Glad you like it! Thanks for sharing the photos.
Maaz55's avatar
please help me how to make corners of slide in 1911 ww1 model
Hoborginc's avatar
Halp by Hoborginc   Slideillustration by Hoborginc  Sorry for the late reply. I've been off the grid for a while. You may have figured it out since then, but, if not, here are the reference images explaining it in a way that may help, although it's still a bit difficult. The key thing to remember is that the corners are essentially four-sided boxes that have the same triangular groove that the rest of the slide does, hence the inward-folded part at the bottom. Also, there is no top face, because the four side faces meet to form a point at the top.
Oversights99's avatar
Oversights99Student General Artist
Hello!, ive just finished the m45a1 model again, and the change to square guiderails actually makes it fit better and looks more accurate. also to expand the pm1911 models ive just reskinned the classic version to replicate the WW1 era m1911,using the SVG files you provided. So the changes are the markings, from the slide to the frame, including the use of a straight main spring housing, and the longer trigger. the part that i cant change as i consider too risky for me to change are the ergonomic shape around the trigger, so i need your help to finish it, as youre the original author of this model, so if you have the time and are interested as to finish this small redesign, i could provide you with the psd and the png files as i already remarked, rearranged and added extra parts for the grip.
Hoborginc's avatar
I'm sorry I haven't been online for a while. I'm not sure if you've already solved it independently in this time, but the idea of going back to the 1911 interested me enough that I've started working on it. 
So far I've made an adjustment to one of the frame walls - test build not very good right now. Another try wll be needed. However, to make it worth the time, I'm also making other small changes as I go. 
I don't think a longer trigger is really necessary, because, for better or worse, the current trigger is already pretty long, too long to resemble the M1911A1's trigger. I think it's already appropriate to pass as an early trigger.
I'm also putting the square guide rail tracks on the WWI model, as well as reducing the size of the grip safety and adding a floorplate loop and a lanyard loop.
The grip textures will also need to be redone. Are there any other changes that you've made on your redesign? 
Oversights99's avatar
Oversights99Student General Artist
well all i did was just a simple retexture so far such as the ww1 colt markings, and i already done the diamond grip textures all it needs is just the small readjustments and improvements for the paper parts. Here's the markings and the grips i've made.
  Ww1 1911 7 by Oversights99 Grip Textures  Ww1 1911 2 by Oversights99   Slide Markings
Hoborginc's avatar
Looking back on the checkering on the grips, I became so dissatisfied I went back and re-checkered them.
Also incorporated some of the same changes you mentioned. The trigger guard should be better now as well.
Other changes are the grip safety, which has been slightly reduced, and lanyard loops, which have been added to the bottom of the main spring housing and the magazine.
The only thing that's not correct yet is the hammer, which I haven't had a chance to widen. 
Otherwise, this should meet your intent or at least provide a better starting point for further modifications: Pm 1911 WWI

(I decided to set the color to 100-100-100 with a couple of highlights for the curved parts. Not sure how well it will turn out when it's done, but I figured the original light gray was too light and that 50-50-50 or 75-75-75 would be a bit too dark.)
WolfeYankee's avatar
Can you make a suppressor for this? Thanks
Hoborginc's avatar
I've made some patterns for an Osprey octagonal suppressor for the 1911, but I haven't test built it yet, so I'm not sure how well it fits together or if there are any defects in it. I can share the current patterns if you're interested.
despacitololxdddd's avatar
Should I try it with 200g?
anonymous's avatar
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