Here is a Fix for the Wacom C1 Not charging issue. Only do this if you are out of Warranty, or tired of having a paper weight. My first time soldering and was able to do this. You just have to be careful.
You will need to buy
1: DC Mag-safe adapter
2: Mag-safe Adapter
( Check Locations for these. Some Take a looong time to ship. )
3: Solder iron Kit / Multi-meter digital
Get 10 or so 3 inch ones. These are super helpful trust me! They are cheap so buy atlease 10 so you can make mistakes.
Other things include
Sponge Damp for soldering
Hot glue gun
Screw Driver make sure you have the right kind. (Plus sign shape but a little sharp. )
Should work on all screws without much hassle )
Dremel with cutting wheel
3D Printed Case for AC Adapter:
Ok here we go.
Part #1 Opening / Desoldering and Soldering the connections
Step 1 Open your computer. Slip it over. Under the 3 rubbers are the screws. If you push inwards on the tiny ones they pop up. Nothing fancy. Do not use anything sharp! These sections have holes in them. So if you do use something sharp you run the chance of stabbing you computer. I used my finger nail. Just wedge something thin in these parts. And then pull outwards ( on the little one. ) The big one Houses the battery. So you do run the chance of stabbing your battery. ( I did this XD ).
After this the metal case needs to be pulled off. Use the battery for this part. Just Place your thumb on the battery and pull the case up while using your thumb to hold it down. It should pup off. When you get one side up just slowly go around the edge and pop up the rest. The case has tabs on it that click. it takes a little pressure. it's pretty simple.
Here's what the insides look like once you get the case off.
The board is in 3 main sections. The part we want is on the left side.
Start by Unplugging the battery. ( colored wires coming out of the battery. )
You should make a list of all the things you unplugged. And keep the screws safe.
You need to unscrew these parts.
Take out the battery first. Unscrew the speakers and unplug those.
The White strip with blue heads just pulls out. When you put it back in the Black part folds up and clamps
down when you push it back in.
Heres the battery if anyone is looking for that
Ok so after everything is unplugged ( takes a min at first But I can tear this thing apart in 5 mins at this point )
You want to locate the Power jack. Its right here circled in blue. ( this is an image from below. )
1 is the Shunt This is connected to ground. This tells the pc it's plugged in.
2 Is ground. This is linked together on the power jack.
Do not let live touch any others. if this happens during the process ( happened to me a billion times ).
Reset the battery by unplugging it and plugging it back in. The light will light up red when you do.
So here's the part where you double check me. pull out your multi meter and turn it on to
This feature Beeps. You use this to check if a connection is connected. Go to the points labeled #2 and
Touch it to them. It should beep telling you they are connected. Try this again with #2 and #1 it should beep.
This telling you they are connected. And now try this with #1 and #3. It shouldnt beep. Meaning they arent and shouldnt touch at all.
This is important because other fixes show 4 wires with a complicated set up. When In reality you just need 2. A wire on #3 and #1.
So after this all you need to do is Desolder the Jack.
Look up on youtube on how to solder and desolder. It's pretty straight forward. Practice on an old remote you have or go to the dollar store and by a electric toy and play around with that.
After the part is desoldered open the wirepack I told you to buy.
Pull off the #1 side. These should leave you with 2 very nice metal parts. ( SAVE THE PLASTIC PART )
Now Break part #2 . You want the metal bits it is connected to. I chewed mine a little to get it broken.
Take the red wire and Solder it to the Live #3 and the black to Shunt/ground #1
make sure you solder these facing towards the outside of the base and not pointing up. When we put the case back on we will Simply Put the plastic bit back on the 2 metal parts of side #1.
Ok The hard part is over. After those are on I Applied a little hot glue to reinforce it and to not let it touch each other.
Test this by taking your adapter. And touch it with your Metal bits of the wire. The live goes Inside the Barrel and the black bit touches the outside. You should see a red light on the board turn on letting you know the unit is getting power. If you short this.... You will either lose power or something. Just depends how your house is wired. I was using a battery backup so I had to reset it by plugging it back in. Just unplug it and test it with your meter. it should give you roughly 19ish on the meter.
PART #2 The Adapter
This part we will be changing your current adapter into a Magsafe one. Take your dremel and cut open the corners.
And pry it open with something. This thing was a huuuge bitch. It's glued good.
After you get it open you should have something like the photos below. Just desolder the black and white wires and solder the mag safe wires onto it. After that you can do what you will. I 3D printed a case for it and hotglued it shut.
make sure you test it for current before sealing it with your meter. Dont let the wires/ solder touch!
Part #3 DC Magsafe
So for this the setup is as so.
The inside has 5 pins. ( metal plug in section not wires )
00000 Like so.
2 outer are Ground
2 Inner are live
The middle is the shunt / Light control.
For this you want to cut the wires as close as you can to the plastic adapter thing. at the end of it.
Then spread all the wires AWAY from one another. No touching!
After that plug it into your adapter you just made. Use your multimeter to test the wires. What you are looking for
is 2 Wires that are live. 19ish should read on your meter. if you get a -19 it just means you have the meter in reverse.
After you do this you will end up with 2 live and 3 ground. Check for connections using your meter and you will discover what one is the shunt. The light will come on when you do this. After you got your wires all nice you will twist the 2 lives together and the 2 ground with the shunt. Then solder those. After that take the other wire you bought and pull the big side again and solder it to that.
You want it so the the plastic part coming out of your PC will Plug into the plastic bit coming out the DC jack.
APPLY HOT GLUE TO THE SOLDERED POINTS SO THEY DONT TOUCH. IF YOU DONT and they touch it will short out and that's a pain in the ass.
Here are some image examples of it. This was before I got the good wires you are using so it's a mess. But I charged it from 0% to 100% with no issues.
After this and it's all good here comes the real test.
Putting it all together. Simply slip the wires through the case ( this is why i said to use the part of plastic you can just pull off and put back on. If you didnt solder right or glue between them from keeping them from shorting the laptop will turn off when you start closing the case and they push together. Took me a few times but I was able to get it. I was able to keep all my Slots as well on the machine.
Anyways here's the final result. I applied a little hotglue to the hole on the case to keep it from pulling. The goal was to remove all pressure from that area by having it hang. So I just cut up a leather glove and hot glued it/ziptied it.
before I 3d printed a case for it but it was a hassle to get back into. Plus the magnet on the Magsafe is rather strong. So it pulled too much. So i moved it a little further away.
But with a little time and maybe $80 in parts you were able to do what Wacom wasnt while charging you $750-$900 to fix. I love this computer but I wont be buying another Wacom for awhile. Atlease not direct from them and get a warranty elsewhere.