Shop Forum More Submit  Join Login
The Making of Xerneas and Yveltal by emilySculpts The Making of Xerneas and Yveltal by emilySculpts
Reminder! Auctions Ending on Saturday, October 19 @ Noon EDT
Click Here for Xerneas and Click Here for Yveltal


1. Armatures - Constructed of aluminum armature wire, aluminum foil, and some hot glue.These were some of the trickiest armatures I have made.
Yveltal is a very complex character and I wanted to make sure he was completely supported. Xerneas was mostly difficult around the horns. He has a fairly small head and thin neck but the horns are very complex. I had to really do some problem solving to make sure all that wire didn’t bulk up the head/neck too much.

2. Main Forms - I started out by creating the torsos with my 50/50 super sculpey/sculpey firm mix. I baked these and sanded them. I then started adding on limbs with Apoxie Sculpt. I use this in areas that need to be more durable. In Yveltal’s case, a majority of his form would be created in Apoxie Sculpt. For Xerneas, the legs, horns, and chest plate are where I used Apoxie Sculpt.

3. Final Form, Yveltal - I always have a hard time taking progress photos between the stage seen in the last step and this stage here. It’s when I really get into the zone with sculpting and it’s hard for me to remember to get some photos in! As you can see, Yveltal ended up being largely made of Apoxie Sculpt (the white areas). This clay air dries so it has to be built up in layers. I sand between each layer. ALWAYS wear a dust mask when sanding Apoxie Sculpt. I even ended up using a Dremel here and there for some particularly stubborn areas.

4 . Primed, Xerneas - I always use Plastikote sandable primer for my sculptures. I just got a new order of cans, and saw they started using a new type of spray nozzle. It works so much better than the old style can. I feel like it gives you a lot more control over the spray. One of my favorite things about priming a piece is watching it all come together. As you can see in the last photo, using two different types of clay doesn’t make for a “pretty” surface. It can be hard to tell what exactly you have. Spraying the piece with primer reveals the true surface. It’s like opening a Christmas present! It also reveals small blemishes I may not have seen before. I can then gently sand those out.

5. Base Colors, Yveltal - Probably the hardest part about painting Yveltal was getting a clean edge on the black. It took a lot of concentration and a VERY steady hand. Which can be a nightmare for a coffee drinker like me :) This photo was taken right after I finished the black. Fortunately, black is a very opaque color so it only took two layers of paint. The red took a few more though. Matching reds is always a challenge. It’s all about finding the right amount of yellow, white, and or/blue mixed in to get the hue just right. And of course it always looks completely different wet vs. dry.

6. Finished Pieces - And we have the finished pieces! I have been using Delta Ceramcoat Matte brush-on varnish when I want a semi-gloss look. (I have yet to find a TRUE matte varnish. If I want a true matte look, I have been leaving the piece unvarnished. ) I mixed in a little Pearl Ex powder into the varnish for Xerneas’ horn gems. It gives them a nice little sparkle.

Check out some more photos of the finished pieces :


Want to learn how to sculpt like I do?

My new book Creature Sculpt is now available!
Check out all the information here!


Interested in a commission? Please check my journal for current commission status.


Check me out on : Facebook | Twitter | Tumblr | Etsy |
The owner of this deviation has disabled comments.


Submitted on
October 16, 2013
Image Size
1.5 MB


1,000 (who?)