Cardboard Caledscratch Tutorial

The handle is 21.2cm long, 6cm (rounded) wide, 4cm deep. The pommel is about 3.7cm x 7 cm rounded. the widest point of the hilt is about 18 cm long, 26cm wide, and it is 7cm deep. I can't really give measurements for each little nob but the long needle is 49cm (23cm on both sides, 26cm across the hilt. smaller needles are roughly 17.5 cm long. Curved tube section is about 4.5cm long, 5.5cm deep. The structure above that before the blade is about 7.5cm long, 26cm wide at the widest and 21.7cm at the smallest (nobs protrude 3cm, and are 3.5cm long) and 3cm deep. The first section of the blade is 32.5cm long, 13.9cm wide, and is 2.3cm deep.

The other section of the blade is longer than 32.5cm, but should only extend to a length of 33cm. when sheathed it is 12.8 cm long.

The largest section of the hilt should be 1 inch shorter than whatever you make the handle.

General rule of thumb for a two-handed sword is about an inch and a half of extra handle space when you have both hands stacked (like gripping a baseball bat, with your leading hand's index finger resting against the bottom of your other hand's pinky) on the handle.

Use these body guidelines: the sword, sheathed, should come up to just about 3cm lower than your belly button when the pommel is resting on the ground. Unsheathed, the tip of the blade should reach the bottom of your pectoral muscle or the center of your chest.

I did mockups using a line on a bunch of paper taped together that I knew was my height, and had knees, pelvis, elbows marked out on it, because the sheathed sword from hilt to blade tip should only be as long as your arm from pit to tip of middle finger.

It should be possible. This piece, in all of its cardboard and hot glue glory was con-safe.

it's sharp edges you have to worry about. However, it doesn't help to check with the con specifically.

wooden weapons are often allowed, again, it's sharpness.