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I have added a folder to my gallery - Stock. In this folder I will place images that you may use as stock.

The requirements for using this stock are:

1. Credit me appropriately (a mention in the description).
2. Send me a link to your work.

Thank you!
  • Listening to: David Lynch
  • Reading: Every Move You Make - M.W. Phelps
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  • Eating: Nada
  • Drinking: Coke and coffee with cream
I am always curious about what photographers have in their kit. So I decided to do a journal entry listing mine.

Canon EOS 40D with BG-E2N battery grip, converted to infrared
Canon EOS 7D Mark II with BG-E16 battery grip
Extra Canon OEM batteries for both cameras
Canon 10-22 wide angle with OEM lens hood and Tiffen UV filter
Canon 50 1.8 prime with OEM lens hood and Tiffen UV filter
Canon 70-200 f/4 L telephoto with OEM lens hood and Tiffen UV filter
Canon 100 2.8 Macro with OEM lens hood and Tiffen UV filter
Tamron 28-75 2.8 zoom with lens hood and Tiffen UV filter (GREAT lens - sharp - that costs $500)
Canon 18-135 IS USM zoom with OEM lens hood and Tiffen UV filter
Canon Speedlite 430EX II External Flash with softbox
Precision Design DSLR300 Universal High Power Auto Flash
Fotodiox Pro 28x28" Studio-in-a-Box for Table Top Photography
Neewer 43-inch / 110cm 5-in-1 Collapsible Multi-Disc Light Reflector with Bag - Translucent, Silver, Gold, White and Black
Manfrotto BeFree Compact Aluminum Travel Tripod
SLIK Pro 700DX Professional Tripod with Panhead
SLIK Mini Pro V tabletop tripod
Gorillapod Mini Tripod
The Frendly Swede Extra Long Camera Straps
OxyLED MD50 Ultra Bright Flashlight 
GRDE 3 Modes Bright LED Headlamp Waterproof Head Light
Maglite Heavy-Duty Incandescent 2-Cell D Flashlight, Black
Maglite Black Plain Leather Belt Holder for D-Cell Flashlight
Polaroid Hot Shoe Three Axis Triple Bubble Spirit Level For Canon and Nikon Digital and Film Cameras
Lens and sensor cleaning supplies
Grizzly Camera Bean Bag – Medium
Vanguard SB-100 Stone Bag
Canon Deluxe Gadget Bag 100EG
Canon 2400 SLR Gadget Bag for EOS SLR Cameras
Canon Professional Gadget Bag 1EG
Pelican 1510 Case With Padded Dividers (Black)
3M(TM) Half Facepiece Respirator Assembly 6291/07002(AAD), Medium
WD External Hard Drive 8TB
Wacom Intuos Pen and Touch Medium Tablet (CTH680) (Old Version)

  • Listening to: Delain - April Rain
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  • Watching: Computer screen
  • Playing: The game of life
  • Eating: Bagel with cream cheese
  • Drinking: Coke and coffee with cream

Photography Equipment Basics:  What You Need to Know

This is a pretty comprehensive list of the basic equipment you use in photography.

DSLR Camera

A digital single-lens reflex camera (also called a digital SLR or DSLR) is a digital camera combining the optics and the mechanisms of a single-lens reflex camera with a digital imaging sensor, as opposed to photographic film. The reflex design scheme is the primary difference between a DSLR and other digital cameras. In the reflex design, light travels through the lens, then to a mirror that alternates to send the image to either the viewfinder or the image sensor. The alternative would be to have a viewfinder with its own lens, hence the term “single lens” for this design. By using only one lens, the viewfinder of a DSLR presents an image that will not perceptibly differ from what is captured by the camera’s sensor.

DSLRs largely replaced film-based SLRs during the 2000s, and despite the rising popularity of mirrorless system cameras in the early 2010s, DSLRs remain the most common type of interchangeable lens camera in use.

Camera Strap

A necessity, this item connects to the camera and allows for the camera to be worn around your neck or preferably, across your shoulder.

Camera Bag/Case

Another necessity, a bag specifically designed to hold one or two cameras, lenses, flashes, batteries, cleaning supplies, and other items.

Memory Card

This small card, which comes in two formats (SD or CF, depending on the camera) is inserted into your camera in a slot and stores the photos you take, much like a CD Rom stores files on your computer.

Battery

What gives your camera power.  It is imperative to have and carry extra batteries with you.

Battery Grip

An optional addition, it connects to your camera and allows it to use two batteries as opposed to the usual one.  It is also helpful in taking photos with the camera in the vertical position, as it has a shutter button on its side.

Pop-Up Shade

This item fits on the back of the camera, providing shade so that you can see the display better.

Remote Shutter Release

Either wireless or wired, this item is plugged into the camera and allows you to depress the shutter button without touching the camera.  It is particularly good when using slow shutter speeds.

Tripod

A stand with legs on which to attach your camera allowing you to keep the camera still.  Especially good for low light photography.

Camera and Lens Cleaning Supplies

It’s always good to carry with you cleaning supplies to clean your lenses or camera (with care).  A cleaning kit may include the following:  lens cleaning solution; lens brush/pen; air blower cleaner; and a lens cloth.

Lenses

A camera lens is an optical lens or assembly of lenses used in conjunction with a camera body and mechanism to make images of objects either on photographic film or on other media capable of storing an image chemically or electronically.  A lens may be permanently fixed to a camera, or it may be interchangeable with lenses of different focal lengths, apertures, and other properties.  There are different types of lenses.  These are the main types:

Wide Angle

A wide angle lens is a lens whose focal length is substantially smaller than the focal length of a normal lens for a given film plane. This type of lens allows more of the scene to be included in the photograph, which is useful in architectural, interior and landscape photography where the photographer may not be able to move farther from the scene to photograph it.

Another use is where the photographer wishes to emphasize the difference in size or distance between objects in the foreground and the background; nearby objects appear very large and objects at a moderate distance appear small and far away.

This exaggeration of relative size can be used to make foreground objects more prominent and striking, while capturing expansive backgrounds.

Telephoto

A telephoto lens is a lens with a longer focal length than standard, giving a narrow field of view and a magnified image.

Macro

A macro lens is a lens suitable for taking photographs unusually close to the subject. Popular macro subjects: insects, flowers, abstract images.

Fisheye

A fisheye lens is an ultra wide angle lens that produces strong visual distortion intended to create a wide panoramic or hemispherical image. Often, these lenses give a circular effect.

Filters

Camera lens filters can serve different purposes in digital photography. They can be indispensable for capturing scenery in extremely difficult lighting conditions, they can enhance colors and reduce reflections or can simply protect lenses. Filters are widely used in photography and cinematography and while some only use filters in rare situations, others rely on filters for their everyday work. For example, landscape photographers heavily rely on various filters, while street and portrait photographers rarely get to use them. Since digital photography is all about the quality and intensity of light, lens filters are often necessary to modify the light before it enters the lens. Many photographers think that some of the built-in tools in Lightroom and Photoshop can simulate filter behavior, making filters redundant in the digital age. The most popular lens filters are circular, screw-on filters. Those mount directly onto the filter thread in front of a lens. They come in different sizes, depending on the lens filter thread. The standard and the most common size of screw-on filters for professional lenses is 77mm.

Lens Hood/Lens Shade

In photography, a lens hood or lens shade is a device used on the front end of a lens to block the Sun or other light source(s) to prevent glare and lens flare. Lens hoods may also be used to protect the lens from scratches and the elements without having to put on a lens cover.

External Flash

A separate unit from the camera that is either placed on a camera’s hot shoe or is held or placed on a light stand. Effective for bouncing light and provides better results than the on-camera flash.

Light Meter

An instrument that provides a measurement of the exposure, tells users exactly what shutter speed/aperture combination to use based on the 18% gray standard, and can even provide detailed charts and graphs on the quality and color of the lights one is using. Generally, it will be seen as a tool to check exposure settings for perfectly balanced images. Additionally, some models can provide other exceptionally useful capabilities, such as flash metering, color temperature readings, and more.

Strobe

A device used in the studio to produce regular flashes of light. It is used in lieu of hot lights, and is placed on a light stand. Used most often in glamour photography.

Continuous (Hot) Lights

An alternate to strobe lights, hot lights are always on.

Softbox

A soft box with a cover of material/fabric used to diffuse light. It spreads out the light and makes the light on the subject softer than the light resulting from a light without a soft box.

Umbrella

Like the softbox, a photographic umbrella is placed in front of or behind studio lights in order to diffuse and soften the light falling on the subject.

Light Stand

A stand that sits on the floor which holds strobes, hot lights, flashes, softboxes, and umbrellas.

Background/Backdrop

A cloth sheet/muslin that is placed behind the subject, either on a wall, or a stand, that provides a solid or patterned background for studio photography. It comes in a variety of colors.

Reflector/Diffuser

A reflector is a device made of reflective material (typically silver, gold, or white) used to reflect or bounce light. They are made so they can be folded and placed in a camera bag for use in off-site or studio photography.

Scrim

A piece of fabric placed in front of a strobe or hot light that diffuses the light.

Egg Crate

A soft grid placed on the front of a softbox that allows the light to be directed more easily.

Foam Core

Hard posterboard with a foam center that is used to block or direct light.

Flag

A piece of black fabric used on a stand in the studio to block light.

  • Listening to: The National - Trouble Will Find Me
  • Reading: Every Move You Make - M.W. Phelps
  • Watching: Computer screen
  • Playing: The game of life
  • Eating: Nada
  • Drinking: Coke and coffee with cream
My recent deviation, "Fear Not" was awarded a DD. Very happy! 
Abandoned School - Fear Not by cjheery
  • Listening to: Jim Hendrix "Are You Experienced?"
  • Reading: Philosophy
  • Watching: Nada
  • Playing: With the computer
  • Eating: Nada
  • Drinking: Coffee with lots of cream
Informative, especially for those new to urban exploration.  Offers lots of tips.

minus.com/mbmgdQ8L0o/
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  • Reading: Urbex
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This excellent site provides everything you want to know about a photo for free:

www.imageforensic.org/
  • Listening to: The Smiths
  • Reading: Photography Stuff
  • Watching: Nada
  • Playing: With the computer
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As featured on the Photography Talk website, www.photographytalk.com.

1. Don't be afraid to use abstract elements. They don’t always have to be connected to work together.

2. Print your photography. The larger the better. This goes for most art forms.

3. Share your photos with your friends and family.

4. Do so with strangers as well. Pro bono projects can make a great difference in your career.

5. After you print, frame. You’d be surprised how much good a quality frame can do for your photograph.

6. Costco and Ikea offer cheap, decent quality frames.

7. Start photographing your friends. They can make great models, simply because you already know each other.

8. Offer your work as a gift.

9. Enjoy the thrill of photographing complete strangers. It might not be easy at first, but once you get the hang of it, it becomes like a drug.

10. Candid photos often have more drama.

11. Natural light is the best light, but not for all photographs.

12. Know what kind of light is best for all situations.

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13. The 35mm focal length is the ideal one. It’s the closest to the human perspective.

14. Use high ISO when necessary. Especially if your camera is less than four years old.

15. Don’t carry a tripod with you everywhere you go. Sometimes you can just improvise a steady shot on location.

16. Avoid overexposure. Underexposure is still savable.

17. Stop shooting photos of the homeless to make your work look artsy.

18. The best photo opportunities come in the least expected situations.

19. Include humans in your photos. It’s a sure bet to make them more interesting.

20. Photoshop was made for improving images, not turning bad ones into good ones.

21. Everyone thinks they’re a photographer nowadays. Be prepared for it.

22. Flying half way across the world for a good shot is not necessary. Some of the best stuff is just around the corner.

23. If you have a grip on your camera, don’t shoot portraits with it pointing downwards.

24. I know you think your camera is a nice toy. It’s not, it’s a tool.

25. Study painting. In terms of composition, they are very much alike.

26. When you chose photography as a profession, you’re not picking out a job, you’re choosing a lifestyle.

27. Stop finding excuses to go out shooting.

28. Try to be original as much as possible.

29. Photography is about storytelling.

30. Colored cameras draw way too much attention.

31. The more gear you carry around with you, the less you will enjoy actual photography.

32. A good self-portrait is often harder to take than a normal one.

33. People who laugh when photographed always reveal a part of their true character.

34. Blend with the environment when out shooting. You don’t want to draw unwanted attention.

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35. Landscape photography has been done too much.

36. Enjoy the process. There is no point in pursuing photography if you stop enjoying it.

37. Never delete anything. You never know when a photo you might have first overlooked can become priceless.

38. Show some respect whenever photographing someone or something new.

39. In street photography, the real shots are taking with wide angle lenses, not telephoto.

40. Photography + traveling = Love

41. For the love of all that is good, learn how to read a histogram.

42. A noisy or blurred photo is better than no photo at all.

43. Rain is your friend. Don’t be afraid to go out and catch some cool drops. Just make sure you protect your gear.

44. When faced with a unique moment, don’t forget to enjoy it and don’t lose yourself in the attempt to capture it.

45. Take care of your basic needs before shooting. Don’t do it hungry or thirsty.

46. Photography is one of the best ways to find yourself.

47. Reading isn't just for college students, read photography related books.

48. Sharing is the way. Don’t keep your secrets to yourself, because in the end you will be doing the world and yourself a favor.

49. Shoot constantly. Camera, iPhone, doesn’t matter.

50. Learn how to capture the decisive moment. A high frame rate usually helps.

51. An expensive camera/lens does not equal a good photographer.

52. RAW only.

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53. Prime lenses will help you learn better than zooms.

54. Photo editing is equally important and hard as classic photography.

55. The rule of thirds is crucial and it works most of the times.

56. Macro photography is harder than it seems and it certainly isn’t for everybody.

57. A good UV filter can replace a lens cap.

58. Stop spending too much time on photography forums. Pick up your camera and go shooting.

59. There is beauty in all things if you really try to see it.

60. Film is not better than digital.

61. Vice versa.

62. No lens or camera will make you a better photographer.

63. The “exclusive” glass won’t make your photos better.

64. Look out for what your favorite photographers are doing, but don’t spend too much time on it.

65. Parties and DSLRs don’t mix well together.

66. Yes, girls dig photographers. For now.

67. Converting your photos to black and white does not automatically make them artistic.

68. Don’t tell people you use Photoshop because they will think less of you. Use the term “digital darkroom” instead.

69. Don’t take photos of everything you see. Learn how to be selective.

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70. Backup all your images.

71. Hand straps are better than neck straps.

72. Get closer when shooting something.

73. Be a part of the scene you’re shooting.

74. Get down on your knees or belly. A different perspective will make a better photo almost every time.

75. Focus less on technique and more on composition.

76. Hide the logo of your camera with black tape. It draws less attention.

77. Always underexpose a bit when shooting in broad daylight.

78. The more shots you take, the better you will get.

79. Shoot the same thing at different exposure values.

80. Show only your best work. Always, no exceptions.

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81. Point and shoot cameras can be very handy sometimes.

82. Join at least one online photography forum.

83. Don’t be afraid to critique the work of other photographers. Just make sure they can learn something from it.

84. Think twice before you press the shutter release.

85. Unless it’s photojournalism, a good photograph needs no additional explanation with words.

86. Alcohol and photography are not a good combination.

87. Worship no photographer.

88. Film grain = beauty.

89. Get a messenger bag instead of a classic camera bag.

90. Keep it simple.

91. Photography is based on light. It’s the most important element.

92. Find your style, your “voice” and stick with it.

93. Photo processing greatly benefits from the presence of a second monitor.

94. The best way to convert your photos to b/w is via Silver EFEX pro

95. Have a camera with you at all times. Or at least make a habit of using your phone at its best.

96. Never let photography keep you from enjoying life.

97. Your camera is not jewelry. Use it until it cracks open.

98. Shoot straight. Leave tilted photos to amateurs.

99. Have confidence. If you do, so will your models.

100. Always treat assistants with respect.

101. Get rid of your kit lens.

  • Listening to: The Smiths
  • Reading: Photography Stuff
  • Watching: Nada
  • Playing: With the computer
  • Eating: Nada
  • Drinking: Coffee with lots of cream
There's an excellent photography website you should check out.  It is run by Ed Knepley, an award-winning photographer in Virginia.  It has tutorials and information on software and post-processing plus a wide range of photography topics that are too numerous to mention.

Check it out at:  edknepleyphoto.com/table-of-co…
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  • Reading: Photography Stuff
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I finally painted for the first time in over a year.  I was worried I would be rusty, but it was just like riding a bike.  It's called "Majesty" - see gallery.
  • Listening to: Notorius B.I.G. Life After Death
  • Reading: The Fall, Camus
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www.artbusiness.com/artist_ema…
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  • Reading: When Things Fall Apart
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Some helpful tips:

  • Listening to: David Lynch - The Big Dream
  • Reading: When Things Fall Apart
  • Watching: Nada
  • Playing: Nada
  • Eating: Nada
  • Drinking: H2O
Helpful article.  www.artbusiness.com/pricereali…
  • Listening to: David Lynch - The Big Dream
  • Reading: When Things Fall Apart
  • Watching: Nada
  • Playing: Nada
  • Eating: Nada
  • Drinking: H2O
My painting "Orgasmic", fav.me/d5gk3kb was recently featured as a daily deviation.  I am thrilled and honored.
  • Listening to: Lifehouse "Between the Raindrops"
  • Reading: Outdoor Photographer
  • Watching: The computer
  • Playing: Life 101
  • Eating: Nothing
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An excellent series of articles by well-known photographer and author Harold Davis:

photo.net/column/harolddavis/b…
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  • Reading: The Naked Face
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This excellent article by Darren Rowse of the Digital Photography School emphasizes how you can use your zoom lens as an aid in composition.  The focal length you choose makes a world of difference.

www.digital-photography-school…
  • Listening to: Bohren & der Club of Gore Sunset Mission
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www.kenrockwell.com/index.htm
  • Listening to: Beethoven's Symphony #9 in d minor Furtwangler
  • Reading: Ken Rockwell's photography site
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Black and White Landscapes - How to Capture a Proper Tonal Range - bit.ly/gqS0RI

Long Exposure Photography - bit.ly/pVt4DL

The Photographer's Guide to Depth of Field - bit.ly/umjg4p
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I wanted a light tent but for macro and product shots but wasn't willing to spend $100 on it, so I decided to build one.

Materials Needed:

1) Box – Any size, square or rectangular.  You can find boxes in the back of strip malls, grocery stores, appliance stores, Walmart, etc. The thicker the better!

2) Fabric -  Your choice.  In my box I used white muslin fabric that is found at your local arts and craft store. Buy enough to cover the entire box. ($4.00 or $1.99 a yard).  

3) Masking Tape ($1.00).

4) Glue Stick - To stick the lining in the box ($1.00).

5) White Bristol Board - This will line the inside of the box and will also serve as your background.  Bristol board is a heavyweight paper that is used in drawing/art. The name came from where it was originated, Bristol England.  If you wanted a different background you can also pick up different colors ($3.00).

6) Light - I suggest that you pick up some "daylight" bulbs at Home Depot. Using regular light bulbs will cast a yellow light and should be avoided. I purchased "n:vision" 90 watt equivalent compact florescent bulbs ($7.00). Basically any "Full Spectrum" light bulbs will do.

Light Fixture - If you have a one of those desk work lamps, it will work fine. If you don't, I suggest getting a "clamp on" light. They are about $11 at Walmart.

7) Miscellaneous Tools - Ruler or any straight edge, scissors, pencil or marker, and box cutters.

Step By Step Process:

1) Using the ruler, measure and mark, on all 4 sides, 2″ in from the side of the box marking multiple points with your marker. When you are done you will see your border.  Connect the points using your ruler.  You should have a nice looking square/rectangle in the middle of the box with a 2″ border around it.  Leave the top and bottom of the box alone as you will not need to mark it.

2) Cut out the boxes you've drawn on each side.  When you're done, cut off the top of the box or remove the flaps on the top of the box.  Leave the bottom in tact.



3) Take your Bristol board and make lines with your pencil or marker for every two inches 16 times. Then proceed to cut out 16 strips with your scissors.

4) Glue the paper strips into the box (4 on each side to cover the box so it's white inside). Make sure the side with marker goes against the cardboard so it cannot be seen.



5) Take another piece of Bristol board and cut is so the width is the same as the inside of the box and the length is much longer then the box.

6) Place the long piece of Bristol board into the box to where the piece curves to the bottom. Avoid creasing as it will show up in your photo. Cut off excess paper.



7) Cut your fabric to where it will cover the holes. Then cut a big piece to where it will cover the top of the box.

8) Tape the fabric to cover the holes in the box except the one that is facing your background. Then tape the top piece on.



YOU'RE DONE!



Now all you have to do is light the top of the box and start snapping away!



There are many variations you can do to get the photo you want. If you're having a shadow problem I suggest lighting the other sides of the box (which will require more lights). If you're getting vignetting I suggest a lens hood or moving the lens more into the box. Photoshop could be a handy tool also! I sometimes adjust the levels in Photoshop so it's brighter.
  • Listening to: Squirrel Nut Zippers
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www.etsy.com/shop/celesteheery…

Only $20!
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  • Reading: Black & White Photography
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I will soon be creating steampunk rings and necklaces and offering them for sale.  Stay tuned!
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  • Reading: Doug Box's Guide to Posing for Portrait Photograph
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