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Mask making part 19


Part 19.

Crappy not fun bits over, now it's ready for primer and paint. I use a white primer made for plastics on car body work (I got a load of it cheap in bulk) but any primer suitable for plastics should do the job. Two light coats to the front and back is always better than one thick coat. The same applies to any paint or varnish.

I've found that sometimes when painting resin you can get tacky parts on the primer/paint where it will not set properly.

This can sometimes be caused by your resin leeching oils and can continue for a few weeks after the resin has cured. You can tell when this is happening as you get little tacky spots and blobs and the paint will come away when you touch it. The reason for this can be because the resin has not been weighed properly and too much of one of the parts has been added, or it has not been mixed sufficiently, but it can just be due to the type of resin.

I have also had this problem when it's definitely not due to the resin leeching oils, it just seems to be a chemical reaction with the type of primer and varnish that I used. I scoured the internet looking for anyone that had similar problems but couldn't find any solutions, then I stumbled upon the cure myself, Polyurethane varnish.

It works for me but might not work for everyone. If I can feel any tacky parts after I have painted and varnished (with a spray varnish) I just give it a light coat of brush on polyurethane varnish and it's fine. But I don't think it would work if your resin is leeching oil, I don't think there is any cure for that apart from leaving the cast until it dries up. (but I could be wrong, I'm no expert)

The Harlequin skull masks are available to buy from my Etsy store here:…

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