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COPIC 72-A Set Color Chart by almyki COPIC 72-A Set Color Chart by almyki
Comments & Critique Disclaimer
1. My Artist Comments are always total novels, sorry. Check the Index (below) to skip to any info you're interested in. Thanks for looking!

Title: COPIC Sketch Markers: 72 A-Set (Color Chart) + 12 Neutral Gray Set
Date: ?? - 02/11
Media: Heavyweight Paper
COPIC Sketch Markers 72 A-Set
Adobe Photoshop CS3

Subject
COPIC Marker color reference chart.

If you're considering getting the 72 A-Set of COPIC markers (or 12-Set Neutral Gray markers, which are separate), or are wondering which set you might like, this might be handy. Note, each color has big- and little-swabs because the big ones were the original chart, and the little marks are updates (see below 'Lightfastness' for details) . I'll also talk here about any little thing I've noticed with my markers in my limited experience, in case anyone's interested in that babbling. Lots of babbling.



INDEX
COPIC Markers?
Where Can I Buy?
What Paper Do I Use?
Color Range Breakdown
Lightfastness
Repeat And Similar Colors
Scanning And Color Matching
Marker Tips
About 0 Colorless Blender



COPIC Markers?
Official English Site: [link]
Marker Comparison Guide: [link]

COPIC is a popular brand of alcohol-based markers from Japan, considered top-quality and used by professionals. Prismacolors and other marker brands are also popular, and cheaper, but often of slightly lower quality.

COPICs can be bought in sets (12, 24, 36, or 72) or open stock. COPIC has different lines of markers, so research carefully before choosing. ALL marker lines have replaceable nibs and refillable ink. Ink refill bottles are the same for all markers, but each marker has different ink capacity, and many replaceable nibs are cross-compatible between marker lines:

* COPIC Original [link] : Chisel Nib + Fine-Tip Nib or 7 Replacement Nib Options, 214 colors, refills 9x, large squarish barrel, airbrush-compatible, empty-custom available, $6.50each retail/$5.00 dickblick.
---The standard COPIC has the chisel and fine nibs, but you can buy 'replacement' nibs of different design; 9 in all compatible for COPIC Originals, including a 'brush nib' and 'super fine' tips. Holds lots of ink, doesn't roll, empty markers available for custom marker mixes.

* COPIC Ciao [link] : Chisel Nib + Brush Nib or Replacement Round Nib, 180 colors, refills 15x, slim round barrel, $4.30each retail/$3.21 dickblick.
---Virtually same quality as Sketch, but limited color range, smaller and holds less ink, and much cheaper. Rolls on surface, can't create custom-color markers (look to Sketch for custom brush markers), can't use with airbrush system (extra accessory), and lacks labeling on caps, only barrels. Same 3 nibs as Sketch.
72 B-Set Chart: [link]žion=&global=1&q=copic+ciao+72#/d2botym

* COPIC Sketch [link] : Chisel Nib + Brush Nib or Replacement Round Nib, 346 colors, refills 12x, ovalish barrel, airbrush-compatible, empty-custom available, $6.50each retail/$4.87 dickblick.
---Probably most popular line. Widest range of colors is big selling point, and brush-tip is versatile. Comfortable, doesn't roll, holds more ink than Ciao, empty marker available for custom marker mixes. Only 3 nib options.
334 A-B-C-D Sketch Chart: [link]žion=&global=1&q=copic+color+chart#/d2gy2si
Complete Color-Matched Chart: [link]

* COPIC Wide [link] : 3/4in Broad Chisel or Replacement Flat Nib, 36 colors, refills 7x, fat short barrel, empty-custom available, $7.50each retail/$5.62 dickblick.
---'Specialty' marker, use for filling wide areas, backgrounds. Pricey, very limited color range, but empty marker available for custom marker mixes. Holds and uses lots of ink. Only 2 nibs, and single-ended, not double-ended like the others.



WHERE CAN I BUY?
[link] www.dickblick.com is where I'd buy it! They have some of the best prices ever (prove me wrong); you can buy individual markers, sets, and refills.

DO NOT buy the markers unless dickblick is advertising a 15% or 20% off general sale on their homepage/top of the screen! These sales pop up AAALL the time, and it can save you serious cash! Usually these sales have a minimum-amount original-price order, things like $100, $150, maybe $200. But these are COPICs; this 72-Set alone costs $327 at dickblick's normal price (sadly enough still way cheaper than retail) .

Those on a budget? Fun fact: On a 20% dickblick sale day you can buy the 2 Ciao 72 sets (144 markers) for $346. Buying 2 Sketch 72-sets (out of 4) with the same sale is $524. $178 difference for the same amount of markers, same tips, and many of the same exact colors (all Ciao colors are available as Sketch markers) . Considering you can buy any marker open stock, even the 'limited' color range of Ciao doesn't seem like a big deal...

WHAT PAPER DO I USE?
There's no set rule, and there are lots of options. Here are a couple examples.

[link] There is specialty marker paper, which tends to be very thin like printer paper, have an extremely smooth surface, and is one-sided; the other side has a special layer to prevent bleed-through. But it can be easy to confuse the sides if you mix up right-side-up, so be careful of orientation when taking a sheet out! 0 Blender works well to actually blend on this paper, but be careful of dark colors and thick application; because color can't bleed through, the stronger-pigmented colors tend to start to pool and streak as it builds up.

[link] Any paper that claims to be good for pens is probably good for markers too, since they usually have a smooth surface and aren't easily torn. I prefer this brand over marker papers because I like the slight thickness of the paper and dislike how ink pools on marker paper.

And I'm sure there's plenty of other good papers to use, and besides that, it's no big deal if you use your markers in a sketchbook or printer paper either. Markers act a little different for different papers, so always test it before working on a masterpiece XD .

COLOR RANGE BREAKDOWN
The A Set has mostly bright, vivid colors, and tooons of blues. I haven't used it, but from what I've seen the B Set has much lighter colors, and apparently more flesh tones. I also bought a Neutral Gray 12-Set, separately.

110 Special Black
100 Black
C1 Cool Gray No. 1
C3 Cool Gray No. 3
C5 Cool Gray No. 5
C7 Cool Gray No. 7
C9 Cool Gray No. 9

W1 Warm Gray No. 1
W3 Warm Gray No. 3
W5 Warm Gray No. 5
W7 Warm Gray No. 7
W9 Warm Gray No. 9

E09 Burnt Sienna
E15 Dark Suntan
E29 Burnt Umber
E33 Sand
E37 Sepia
E44 Clay
E49 Dark Bark

R02 Flesh
R08 Vermillion
R27 Cadmium Red
R32 Peach
R37 Carmine

YR00 Powder Pink
YR04 Chrome Orange
YR07 Cadmium Orange
YR09 Chinese Orange
YR14 Caramel
YR23 Yellow Ochre
YR24 Pale Sepia

Y02 Canary Yellow
Y06 Yellow
Y11 Pale Yellow
Y13 Lemon Yellow
Y15 Cadmium Yellow
Y21 Buttercup Yellow
Y26 Mustard

YG03 Yellow Green
YG13 Chartreuse
YG91 Putty
YG95 Pale Olive

G07 Nile Green
G16 Malachite
G17 Forest Green
G21 Lime Green
G28 Ocean Green
G99 Olive

BG09 Blue Green
BG10 Cool Shadow
BG15 Aqua
BG18 Teal Blue

B01 Mint Blue
B05 Process Blue
B06 Peacock Blue
B14 Light Blue
B23 Pthalo Blue
B26 Cobalt Blue
B29 Ultramarine
B32 Pale Blue
B34 Manganese Blue
B37 Antwerp Blue
B39 Prussian Blue

BV08 Blue Violet

V04 Lilac
V06 Lavender
V09 Violet

RV04 Shock Pink
RV09 Fuchsia
RV11 Pink
RV19 Red Violet
RV29 Crimson

C/W Range - A Set comes with a range of Warm Grays and Cool Grays. At first it may seem redundant, or like a waste of money on boring 'colors'. But I've actually found them indispensable. My C1 and W1 are probably in my Top-5 of used markers; they're great for toning down the saturation of bright colors, or creating the shadows of 'whites'. C3/W3 are used a lot too, and C5/W5 frequently enough (as the tones get darker, the less I use) . The 'warmth' and 'coolness' of the grays also definitely make a difference.

E RANGE - The 'Earth' tones are pretty dark browns, and can be good for darker skintones; I use E33 the most for darker skin, and E15 and E37 occasionally. E09 can be useful for red-brown hair, and E44 is a very strange grayish-brown that I rarely use.

R RANGE - The three 'red reds' of the 'Red' range are mostly the same (check below 'Repeat And Similar Colors' for more details), but the R02 and R32 can be useful as pinks and shades for skin. I don't use R02 'Flesh' as a base color for skin, but it can be useful for blushing, lips, or skin shading (ditto to R32, which is also a great 'warm pink') .

YR RANGE - Yellow-Red Range has two handy skin tones; YR00 is good for peachy or sun-tanned skin, and it's a little pink. YR23 is a good coppery/tan skintone, and YR23 and YR24 are both good as skin shadows or light browns.

Y RANGE - My favorites of the Yellow range is Y11 (the lightest yellow), Y15 (a strong warm yellow), Y21 (greeeat for warm light skin), and Y26 (similar to YR23 and YR24 but yellower).

YG RANGE - Not too many Yellow-Greens, but they're all natural common colors, unique, and not too dark. Useful in nature, spring colors.

G RANGE - Are all much darker than YGs, very strong. G21 is lightest Green and more muted, so it comes in handy. G07 is also useful, as the 'purest' green-green of the set. Otherwise, I don't use the others too much.

BG/B RANGE - Blue-Green and Blue Ranges together is sooo wide, it's ridiculous. BG10 I use a lot for skies and any very light blue. B01 and B32 are the next lightest, though B32 is more soft and denimy and B01 is kind of cyan and brighter. B39 is the darkest blue. Other than that, I'm all over the BG/B range when picking blues, because many of them are similar (check below for details) . Too many for me, really.

BV/V RANGE - Very few Violets, and I use them very rarely. The BV08 (the only Blue-Violet) is hardly touched, and V09 not far after. I could use a soft light purple, but they chose only bold and dark colors )= . V04 is the most useful to me, but it's very volatile (check 'Lightfastness' below), so I hesitate to use it.

RV RANGE - Red-Violet Range is equally as strong. RV04 'Shock Pink' does justice to its name and is SUPER-BRIGHT (brighter than it looks here). The most neon color of the whole set! The RV11 is a soft rosey pink, cooler than R32, and it's very pretty and handy. The other RVs are dramatic and seductive, like for lipstick or a cocktail dress.



LIGHTFASTNESS
Markers are almost never 'lightfast'. Lightfast means not changing color after the passage of time and elements. This can be important, especially if you plan to sell your original work (not prints) or keep your artwork around for a while.

I got my markers a while ago, maybe a year+ [/noidea]. I made my chart as soon as I got them, and now (02/11), I decided to do a little update. This is why you see each color has a 'big swab' and a 'little swab'; the little ones are my 'updates' to check if the color is the same.

Almost all of the colors have stayed mostly the same so far. A few have changed a shade or two, but nothing noticeable. Except:

YG13
V04

YG13 - The old YG13 swab is a very light yellow-green. The update shows it's actually a similar color to my YG03, but a shade darker and cooler than YG03.

V04 - The old V04 swab is a shock, neon magenta (not as visible here). Not very practical, so I didn't touch it much. When I updated, the color was completely different! The purple is actually a cooler, strong lavender tone.

REPEAT AND SIMILAR COLORS
There are many 'repeating' or 'similar' colors. Some are so similar I can't see any difference, and others have a slight difference that sometimes makes me choose one over the other, but isn't very big and I would, if I had bought them open stock, only buy one or the other. These colors are:

R08 - R27 - R37 - RV29
YR04 - YR14
Y02 - Y06 - Y13
G16 - G17
BG09 - BG18
B05 - B06 - B14
B23 - B34
B26 - B37
RV09 - RV19 - RV29
100 - 110

R08 R27 R37 RV29. Red-reds. R08 is slightly more orange, R37 is slightly more purple. RV29 is pinkisher. I would choose R27 Cadmium Red, since it's the 'purest' red.

YR04 YR14. Bold oranges, but YR14 is slightly more 'pumpkin', or natural, YR04 is a bit neon. Occasionally handy, but not very. I would choose YR05, since such a strong orange is unique and can be toned down with a YR or W marker. Making a pumpkin orange into a bright orange isn't as easy.

Y02 Y06 Y13. Light yellows, and Y02 and Y06 are practically the same. Y13 is a bit warmer, and Y02 a pinch cooler or lighter than Y06. But I would just get one of the three, probably Y06 Yellow.

G16 G17. Cool blueish greens. G16 seems a shade bluer but I honestly can't tell.

BG09 BG18. Dark greenish blues. BG18 is lighter and duller than BG09, and the difference is noticeable, but not big.

B05 B06 B14. Bold blues. B05 is slightly lighter than B06, and B14 is a bit softer, but no real difference. This set has so many blues already, just get one of them. I have no preference.

B23 B34. Denim-like blues. B23 is slightly lighter and cooler than B34. The difference is a bit bigger than most other 'samey' colors. I would choose just getting B23; since it's lighter I use that more.

B26 B37. B26 is slightly lighter than B37, and B37 is a mite closer to purple.

RV09 RV19 RV29. RV09 is lighter and redder, RV19 is the most purpley, and RV29 is redder than both. RV29 is a bit more different than both, but similar to the other reds (above), so I would keep RV19, since it's a good color between red and purple.

100 and 110. 'Black' and 'Special Black'. I have no clue what makes 110 so 'special', but it makes no difference to me; 100 seems 'blacker', so I keep that, and I replaced 110 with a 0 Colorless blender in COPIC box.

SCANNING AND COLOR MATCH
Obviously, I can't get the colors to look exactly like they look on my sheet online, especially since every monitor is different. But I tried to do what I could, with the use of Levels in Photoshop. The best color-match I felt I could get is the large version.

The smaller versions are there for comparison. The 'Pure Scan' is the color chart unmodified from scanning. The -100 Level' has had the levels cranked down -100, which darkens and saturates the colors. The big version was modified to around -50, so something in between pure and -100.

MARKER TIPS
Most of this you can learn on your own after a few hours of practice, so it's probably better just to play with them yourself XD .

Know the difference between marker types before buying! The Original Copics have a stiff fine-edge tip, and the Sketch Copics have a brush-like tip. (Sketch Copics are much more flexible to use, I highly recommend them) .

Some marker colors are extremely similar, or not very useful (see above section 'Repeat and Similar Colors') . Buying pre-picked sets like my A-Set can be good if you're new to colors/markers and don't know where to start, but once you get the hang of them, buying open stock and choosing your colors more carefully may be better. Definitely more economical!

Lighter colors will likely get more use from you than darker colors. This is because lighter colors tend to be the base color, and the colors that you will use to blend in the darker colors.

If you want your colors to blend, work from dark to light; the colors will blend naturally this way. Otherwise, you'll have to place a light base, shade over it, then blend the shading again with your base anyway. If you want sharper edges for a cel-shade look, fine details, etc., work from light to dark.

Additionally, dry edges and wet edges will be different. Consider your needs, then either color quickly (for softer edges and blending) or wait for the first layer to dry (for sharp edges).

Even if you use the same color, if you wait for one layer to dry, then color on top of it, there will be an 'edge' where your marker streaks are, especially if you go over it a few times. If you want super-subtle patterns or something, this may be handy.

0 Colorless Blender is a hit-and-miss blender that you will have to experiment with and try yourself to see how you like it. See below section on 0 Colorless Blender for details.

Markers tend to bleed through the paper, even really thick paper; keep a sheet underneath the paper you're drawing on so you don't bleed onto the table/next page/etc..

Markers also tend to bleed out on the sides. How much it does this depends on the paper you're using (experiment!), and how much and how quickly you're saturating an area. Leaving some leeway between the inking, waiting for layers to dry, and having a lighter touch can eliminate this problem. There are specialty marker papers on the market too, and smooth-surface drawing paper is better than textured (if it's advertised as good for inks, it's probably good for markers too) . WARNING: The 0 Blender, at least in my experience, tends to make the other colors bleed at the sides like crazy if not used very lightly.

Coloring large areas can be hard; it's good to try breaking up the area, or somehow adding stuff to the area to distract from uneven coloring. For example, adding patches of cloud into a sky, or a pattern design over a 'wallpaper' or floor tiles. Coloring over the area more than once, and quickly, will help make it more even. Putting down a layer of 0 Blender may also help, by making the area a bit damp to start with. [EX] The background patterns in these cards: [link]

The gray range (warm, cool, neutral) is a very handy range to tone done the super-bright colors of these markers, for a more natural, softer, or somber tone. They are also great as shading for 'whites' (or shading in general, really) .

Blending colors to make a new color can be handy, especially if you've got a limited amount of colors. Remember 1st grade and the color wheel, and see what new secondary colors you can get by blending primaries, or getting new shades of primaries by mixing similar/like colors. For example, I may want a greener light blue, so I'd put a layer of Y11 down before coloring over it with B01 or BG10.

If you have a small color range, color theory would be helpful here (look on dA, here's a great place to start: [link] ) . For example, shadows can be created by 'graying down' the same color with a gray range. OR by using darker tones of the same/similar color. OR by using different colors from the base entirely, like yellow base and pink shadow, or red base and brown shadow.



ABOUT 0 COLORLESS BLENDER
This is a hit-and-miss item. Some people like it, some people don't. One of my favorite artists recommended against using this, because it doesn't blend the colors how she likes and just washes out the color. Another artist in a tutorial showed an example of using a blender, and it did seem to make a slight difference. They're both correct.

Blending the colors using just actual colors (ex. C5 to C3, RV11 to RV19) creates a smooth natural gradient with soft blended edges.

If you use 0 lightly, quickly, and sparingly, it won't bleed and can help a bit with 'normal' blending like you'd expect.

However, using more than a couple quick swipes of 0 will start to make the paper super-saturated with marker, and depending on your type of paper, make the other colors bleed at the edges. A LOT. For me, the marker bleeds way more than if I just used normal colors.

You will start to see parts of the color fade, even see slight whitish streaks, if you use a lot. In some instances you can even use it as a 'white color' marker (experiment) . This can actually be helpful if you've made an area a bit too dark, and want to wash some color away, but again, bleeding warning. [EX] Marigold's forehead area was lightened with 0: [link]

However! The paper is very important when it comes to 0 Blender's behavior. On specialty marker paper, for instance, the 'fading colors' is not an issue and it works like you would expect of a blender; this is because marker paper has a special layer on the back so that the marker -can't- bleed through the other side, so the color can't be bled through either.

0 can be good to blend colors into the 'white' of the paper, such as gray 'shadows' of a white shirt, or the edges of 'white' uncolored highlights in skin, hair, etc.. These instances can't be blended the 'usual' way, so 0 is great for that. [EX] White highlights in Marigold's hair was blended with 0: [link]

0 can also create some interesting watery iridescent effects. If you use it heavily, instead of the 'natural' blending you'd expect, the colors start to get a bit splotchy, bleedy, and streaky. While this can be disappointing for those wanting a normal blender, it could be helpful for special needs like, I don't know, atmosphere or insect wings. Warning, using 0 this way is the best way to get tons of bleeding at the sides like noted above.

So, I recommend, get one, try it out, see how you like it for what uses. It doesn't work exactly as one would expect, but you can get creative with it.

<3 ali
Add a Comment:
 
:iconyouprobablyrock:
YouProbablyRock Featured By Owner May 24, 2017  Hobbyist Traditional Artist
Hi, I'm very late but could you do this with Touch Five markers.
Sorry if it's a odd request but a lot of people use them and they're cheaper than Copics   
Reply
:iconmoonjasmine:
moonjasmine Featured By Owner Jun 5, 2015
I know this is a few years old but I was searching for copic color charts because I'd been looking to buy more and came across your post. Thank you so much for your very detailed review. I've been making a list of potential colors/shades I wanted, and your information really helped narrow it down because you mentioned similar colors. I appreciate all the work you did on typing all this up to share! You're a gem!
Reply
:icondolphin4dreamer:
dolphin4dreamer Featured By Owner Jan 11, 2014  Student General Artist
This is probably the best guide to COPIC markers ever. I want comics, but they are too expensive and my mom won't buy it. Now we are considering prismacolor...:3
Reply
:iconcalypso-dawn:
Calypso-Dawn Featured By Owner Aug 6, 2012   Writer
Do you know where I could possibly buy the heavyweight paper so my colors don't bleed though the paper?
Reply
:iconalmyki:
almyki Featured By Owner Aug 31, 2012   General Artist
I'm sorry this is so late, but better late than never, maybe ^^' ?

Actually, even with heavier weight paper it's likely that the markers will eventually bleed through the other side, especially with darker colors and as you keep working over the same areas. There's specialty marker paper that's actually very thin, almost like printer paper, and it made so that it doesn't bleed through; I think they do this by putting a special coating on the other side. I personally like to use papers like this Bleedproof 'pen and marker' paper [link]. It's slightly thicker than normal paper with a very smooth surface, and has minimal bleeding.

Good luck,
<3 ali
Reply
:iconskylalee1999:
Skylalee1999 Featured By Owner Jul 27, 2012  Hobbyist Traditional Artist
Ordered mine 2 weeks and founded out there isn't skin tone... Only Yr00, And only darker skin tones TT.TT So i am going out to Micheals to get lighter colours :) I think that was the only problem with Copic set A but everything else was great :D
Reply
:iconpinkypie1881:
pinkypie1881 Featured By Owner Apr 4, 2012  Hobbyist Traditional Artist
Thank you so much for the awesome tips! :D
Reply
:iconwalkaboutcamera:
walkaboutcamera Featured By Owner Sep 29, 2011
Thank you you have done a great and remarkable service for those just getting into using COPIC colours.
Reply
:iconalmyki:
almyki Featured By Owner Nov 1, 2011   General Artist
You're very welcome; I'm glad that any of this might actually be useful to people at all XD . Sorry for the super-late reply; I rarely touch my inbox =X .

<3 ali
Reply
:iconspielodia:
Spielodia Featured By Owner Aug 29, 2011  Professional
Wow. I've been searching for info on copics and wish I'd seen this sooner. SO MUCH info in one place! Thank you for making this! I'm looking into buying my first copics and picking colors is really complicated to me... So I'm trying to decide if I should buy a set or what. There are many different sets as well so I'm pretty lost, but this helps so much! (I only have a VERY basic set of prismacolor markers, they are unshadable because they are only one of each color >_< )
Reply
:iconalmyki:
almyki Featured By Owner Sep 6, 2011   General Artist
Wow, I'm glad that someone actually found some use for all that blathering! I wish you good luck on that, markers are really fun. But they definitely are confusing to start out with.

<3 ali
Reply
:iconcqiao355:
cqiao355 Featured By Owner Feb 25, 2011  Student Traditional Artist
YAY!
Reply
:iconalmyki:
almyki Featured By Owner Feb 25, 2011   General Artist
Ummm... OK? Yay!! XD

I'll assume you like it! Thanks.

<3 ali
Reply
:iconcqiao355:
cqiao355 Featured By Owner Feb 26, 2011  Student Traditional Artist
I do like it.
Reply
:iconalmyki:
almyki Featured By Owner Feb 26, 2011   General Artist
Awesome ^_^ . I hope it turns out helpful for you.

<3 ali
Reply
:icongeekysideburns:
geekysideburns Featured By Owner Feb 20, 2011   Digital Artist
Great chart! I nerdishly love seeing these things.

I love blick, it's were I got my first set.

Another good place is www.carpediemstore.com who tends to have great sales on and shipping (If you're buying just copics) Even though the price says $4.87 when you add it to the cart it's $3.95. :D The sets are $278.00 when added too. So that's a great place if you want to save and just get a few markers at a time or tons. I believe their free shipping starts at $50 which is enough to buy 13 markers. My only complant is I just wish they'd take paypal. >:I
Reply
:iconalmyki:
almyki Featured By Owner Feb 20, 2011   General Artist
Yay, I'm glad someone is pleased with this XD .

Awesome link, thanks. But ooohhhgods I can't spend ANY more moneyz on art supplies any time soon XD . I've been buying stuff left and right, it's becoming a chronic problem!

I'll have to buy more ink refills and markers and adkfjas;flewj eventually, though ^^' .

<3 ali
Reply
:iconkimchikawaii:
kimchikawaii Featured By Owner Feb 16, 2011  Professional General Artist
I recently discovered Copics (after seeing everyone's stuff on here and saying 'ooooh! I want to try those') and bought the 36 color set and some single ones to fill in. Couldn't afford the 72 piece one. I love them! I also have my little color chart, mostly so I could figure out which color combos worked best for blending. It's a mess though so I won't be posting it on dA!
Reply
:iconalmyki:
almyki Featured By Owner Feb 17, 2011   General Artist
Oh, I know, COPICs are just amaaazing. They are so quick and clean-looking too! With watercolors, I have to blend colors all the time and wait for layers to dry. With color pencils I have to blend and work over areas with 12092432 colors 12304932 times. DX

I tend to skimp on all the little things and am a total stinge; snacks, gas, movie tickets. But then I splurge on big stuff like artist supplies, and agh, I've spent sooo much on artsy stuff lately D= . So it all balances out.

<3 ali
Reply
:iconkimchikawaii:
kimchikawaii Featured By Owner Feb 17, 2011  Professional General Artist
EXACTLY! I don't have a car, cell phone or lots of fancy stuff, but when it comes to my art, it's no holds barred. I know some non-artists would be horrified that I spent basically $5 for a marker (and not just once, but MANY times), but art is my passion, what can I say? I know there are cheaper marker options out there, but I really feel with art supplies, you really do get what you pay for and I'm such a perfectionist in my stuff that I wanted something that worked well from the get go.
Reply
:iconalmyki:
almyki Featured By Owner Feb 17, 2011   General Artist
I have a car and cellphone, because my parents are awesome and buy those things for me ^^' . My car is a hand-me-down from my sis though (andIhatedriving), and I never use my cellphone, they just make me carry it in case of emergencies.

I cannot believe how weak I am with art supplies... I've made THREE big purchases at dickblick in the last few months, and every time, more SKETCHBOOKS D= . Right now, I have... Over a dozen new and partially-used sketchbooks (at least half new), not to mention paper pads, notebooks, pricey paper, and OHGODS THE CANVASES O_o . I'M NOT EVEN A PAINTER XD !!

And yes, you made a good investment. I've researched before I bought my COPICs, and everywhere I've heard it's the best by far; Prismacolor can't hold a candle, by some people's standards. And they'll last you foreeeever =3 .

<3 ali
Reply
:iconkimchikawaii:
kimchikawaii Featured By Owner Feb 18, 2011  Professional General Artist
Lol! I've gotten better at finishing my sketchbooks before buying a new one, but I would say for sure, my weakness right now is the Copics. I also like sewing and so a lot of money can get spent at the fabric store on patterns and fabric, especially when I see a cute food print that I could use for a loli dress or something. I actually go to the mall and am kinda 'Eh, I would rather save the money for something at the craft/and or fabric store' and don't buy much there.

I also chose Copics based on lots of research. Figured, if I was gonna spend that much money on them they needed to be worth it for sure! I don't regret it one bit.
Reply
:iconalmyki:
almyki Featured By Owner Feb 18, 2011   General Artist
I have a problem of using a bunch of different sketchbooks at the same time; I've even made a labeled diagram XD . "This one's for pen and markers, that one's for ideas and doodles, thumbnails and compositions for the small one, blah blah". I can't seem to go anywhere without 2-4 sketchbooks at a time ^^' .

I really want to get into hand-sewing doll clothes and things, but so far little luck. I'm amazed by people who can sew their own clothes and cosplay.

<3 ali
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