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1. My Artist Comments are always total novels, sorry. Check the Index (below) to skip to any info you're interested in. Thanks for looking!Title:
COPIC Sketch Markers: 72 A-Set (Color Chart) + 12 Neutral Gray SetDate:
?? - 02/11Media:
COPIC Sketch Markers 72 A-Set
Adobe Photoshop CS3Subject
COPIC Marker color reference chart.
If you're considering getting the 72 A-Set of COPIC markers (or 12-Set Neutral Gray markers, which are separate), or are wondering which set you might like, this might be handy. Note, each color has big- and little-swabs because the big ones were the original chart, and the little marks are updates (see below 'Lightfastness' for details) . I'll also talk here about any little thing I've noticed with my markers in my limited experience, in case anyone's interested in that babbling. Lots of babbling.INDEX
Where Can I Buy?
What Paper Do I Use?
Color Range Breakdown
Repeat And Similar Colors
Scanning And Color Matching
About 0 Colorless BlenderCOPIC Markers?
Official English Site: [link]
Marker Comparison Guide: [link]
COPIC is a popular brand of alcohol-based markers from Japan, considered top-quality and used by professionals. Prismacolors and other marker brands are also popular, and cheaper, but often of slightly lower quality.
COPICs can be bought in sets (12, 24, 36, or 72) or open stock. COPIC has different lines of markers, so research carefully before choosing. ALL marker lines have replaceable nibs and refillable ink. Ink refill bottles are the same for all markers, but each marker has different ink capacity, and many replaceable nibs are cross-compatible between marker lines:
* COPIC Original [link]
: Chisel Nib + Fine-Tip Nib or 7 Replacement Nib Options, 214 colors, refills 9x, large squarish barrel, airbrush-compatible, empty-custom available, $6.50each retail/$5.00 dickblick.
---The standard COPIC has the chisel and fine nibs, but you can buy 'replacement' nibs of different design; 9 in all compatible for COPIC Originals, including a 'brush nib' and 'super fine' tips. Holds lots of ink, doesn't roll, empty markers available for custom marker mixes.
* COPIC Ciao [link]
: Chisel Nib + Brush Nib or Replacement Round Nib, 180 colors, refills 15x, slim round barrel, $4.30each retail/$3.21 dickblick.
---Virtually same quality as Sketch, but limited color range, smaller and holds less ink, and much
cheaper. Rolls on surface, can't create custom-color markers (look to Sketch for custom brush markers), can't use with airbrush system (extra accessory), and lacks labeling on caps, only barrels. Same 3 nibs as Sketch.
72 B-Set Chart: [link]
* COPIC Sketch [link]
: Chisel Nib + Brush Nib or Replacement Round Nib, 346 colors, refills 12x, ovalish barrel, airbrush-compatible, empty-custom available, $6.50each retail/$4.87 dickblick.
---Probably most popular line. Widest range of colors is big selling point, and brush-tip is versatile. Comfortable, doesn't roll, holds more ink than Ciao, empty marker available for custom marker mixes. Only 3 nib options.
334 A-B-C-D Sketch Chart: [link]
Complete Color-Matched Chart: [link]
* COPIC Wide [link]
: 3/4in Broad Chisel or Replacement Flat Nib, 36 colors, refills 7x, fat short barrel, empty-custom available, $7.50each retail/$5.62 dickblick.
---'Specialty' marker, use for filling wide areas, backgrounds. Pricey, very limited color range, but empty marker available for custom marker mixes. Holds and uses lots of ink. Only 2 nibs, and single-ended, not double-ended like the others.WHERE CAN I BUY?[link]
www.dickblick.com is where I'd buy it! They have some of the best prices ever (prove me wrong); you can buy individual markers, sets, and refills.
DO NOT buy the markers unless dickblick is advertising a 15% or 20% off general sale on their homepage/top of the screen! These sales pop up AAALL the time, and it can save you serious cash! Usually these sales have a minimum-amount original-price order, things like $100, $150, maybe $200. But these are COPICs; this 72-Set alone costs $327 at dickblick's normal price (sadly enough still way cheaper than retail) . Those on a budget?
Fun fact: On a 20% dickblick sale day you can buy the 2 Ciao 72 sets (144 markers) for $346. Buying 2 Sketch 72-sets (out of 4) with the same sale is $524. $178 difference for the same amount of markers, same tips, and many of the same exact colors (all Ciao colors are available as Sketch markers) . Considering you can buy any marker open stock, even the 'limited' color range of Ciao doesn't seem like a big deal... WHAT PAPER DO I USE?
There's no set rule, and there are lots of options. Here are a couple examples.[link]
There is specialty marker paper, which tends to be very thin like printer paper, have an extremely smooth surface, and is one-sided; the other side has a special layer to prevent bleed-through. But it can be easy to confuse the sides if you mix up right-side-up, so be careful of orientation when taking a sheet out! 0 Blender works well to actually blend on this paper, but be careful of dark colors and thick application; because color can't bleed through, the stronger-pigmented colors tend to start to pool and streak as it builds up.[link]
Any paper that claims to be good for pens is probably good for markers too, since they usually have a smooth surface and aren't easily torn. I prefer this brand over marker papers because I like the slight thickness of the paper and dislike how ink pools on marker paper.
And I'm sure there's plenty of other good papers to use, and besides that, it's no big deal if you use your markers in a sketchbook or printer paper either. Markers act a little different for different papers, so always test it before working on a masterpiece XD .COLOR RANGE BREAKDOWN
The A Set has mostly bright, vivid colors, and tooons of blues. I haven't used it, but from what I've seen the B Set has much lighter colors, and apparently more flesh tones. I also bought a Neutral Gray 12-Set, separately.
110 Special Black
C1 Cool Gray No. 1
C3 Cool Gray No. 3
C5 Cool Gray No. 5
C7 Cool Gray No. 7
C9 Cool Gray No. 9
W1 Warm Gray No. 1
W3 Warm Gray No. 3
W5 Warm Gray No. 5
W7 Warm Gray No. 7
W9 Warm Gray No. 9
E09 Burnt Sienna
E15 Dark Suntan
E29 Burnt Umber
E49 Dark Bark
R27 Cadmium Red
YR00 Powder Pink
YR04 Chrome Orange
YR07 Cadmium Orange
YR09 Chinese Orange
YR23 Yellow Ochre
YR24 Pale Sepia
Y02 Canary Yellow
Y11 Pale Yellow
Y13 Lemon Yellow
Y15 Cadmium Yellow
Y21 Buttercup Yellow
YG03 Yellow Green
YG95 Pale Olive
G07 Nile Green
G17 Forest Green
G21 Lime Green
G28 Ocean Green
BG09 Blue Green
BG10 Cool Shadow
BG18 Teal Blue
B01 Mint Blue
B05 Process Blue
B06 Peacock Blue
B14 Light Blue
B23 Pthalo Blue
B26 Cobalt Blue
B32 Pale Blue
B34 Manganese Blue
B37 Antwerp Blue
B39 Prussian Blue
BV08 Blue Violet
RV04 Shock Pink
RV19 Red Violet
C/W Range - A Set comes with a range of Warm Grays and Cool Grays. At first it may seem redundant, or like a waste of money on boring 'colors'. But I've actually found them indispensable. My C1 and W1 are probably in my Top-5 of used markers; they're great for toning down the saturation of bright colors, or creating the shadows of 'whites'. C3/W3 are used a lot too, and C5/W5 frequently enough (as the tones get darker, the less I use) . The 'warmth' and 'coolness' of the grays also definitely make a difference.
E RANGE - The 'Earth' tones are pretty dark browns, and can be good for darker skintones; I use E33 the most for darker skin, and E15 and E37 occasionally. E09 can be useful for red-brown hair, and E44 is a very strange grayish-brown that I rarely use.
R RANGE - The three 'red reds' of the 'Red' range are mostly the same (check below 'Repeat And Similar Colors' for more details), but the R02 and R32 can be useful as pinks and shades for skin. I don't use R02 'Flesh' as a base color for skin, but it can be useful for blushing, lips, or skin shading (ditto to R32, which is also a great 'warm pink') .
YR RANGE - Yellow-Red Range has two handy skin tones; YR00 is good for peachy or sun-tanned skin, and it's a little pink. YR23 is a good coppery/tan skintone, and YR23 and YR24 are both good as skin shadows or light browns.
Y RANGE - My favorites of the Yellow range is Y11 (the lightest yellow), Y15 (a strong warm yellow), Y21 (greeeat for warm light skin), and Y26 (similar to YR23 and YR24 but yellower).
YG RANGE - Not too many Yellow-Greens, but they're all natural common colors, unique, and not too dark. Useful in nature, spring colors.
G RANGE - Are all much darker than YGs, very strong. G21 is lightest Green and more muted, so it comes in handy. G07 is also useful, as the 'purest' green-green of the set. Otherwise, I don't use the others too much.
BG/B RANGE - Blue-Green and Blue Ranges together is sooo wide, it's ridiculous. BG10 I use a lot for skies and any very light blue. B01 and B32 are the next lightest, though B32 is more soft and denimy and B01 is kind of cyan and brighter. B39 is the darkest blue. Other than that, I'm all over the BG/B range when picking blues, because many of them are similar (check below for details) . Too many for me, really.
BV/V RANGE - Very few Violets, and I use them very rarely. The BV08 (the only Blue-Violet) is hardly touched, and V09 not far after. I could use a soft light purple, but they chose only bold and dark colors )= . V04 is the most useful to me, but it's very volatile (check 'Lightfastness' below), so I hesitate to use it.
RV RANGE - Red-Violet Range is equally as strong. RV04 'Shock Pink' does justice to its name and is SUPER-BRIGHT (brighter than it looks here). The most neon color of the whole set! The RV11 is a soft rosey pink, cooler than R32, and it's very pretty and handy. The other RVs are dramatic and seductive, like for lipstick or a cocktail dress.LIGHTFASTNESS
Markers are almost never 'lightfast'. Lightfast means not changing color after the passage of time and elements. This can be important, especially if you plan to sell your original work (not prints) or keep your artwork around for a while.
I got my markers a while ago, maybe a year+ [/noidea]. I made my chart as soon as I got them, and now (02/11), I decided to do a little update. This is why you see each color has a 'big swab' and a 'little swab'; the little ones are my 'updates' to check if the color is the same.
Almost all of the colors have stayed mostly the same so far. A few have changed a shade or two, but nothing noticeable. Except:
YG13 - The old YG13 swab is a very light yellow-green. The update shows it's actually a similar color to my YG03, but a shade darker and cooler
V04 - The old V04 swab is a shock, neon magenta (not as visible here). Not very practical, so I didn't touch it much. When I updated, the color was completely different! The purple is actually a cooler, strong lavender tone.REPEAT AND SIMILAR COLORS
There are many 'repeating' or 'similar' colors. Some are so similar I can't see any difference, and others have a slight difference that sometimes makes me choose one over the other, but isn't very big and I would, if I had bought them open stock, only buy one or the other. These colors are:
R08 - R27 - R37 - RV29
YR04 - YR14
Y02 - Y06 - Y13
G16 - G17
BG09 - BG18
B05 - B06 - B14
B23 - B34
B26 - B37
RV09 - RV19 - RV29
100 - 110
R08 R27 R37 RV29. Red-reds. R08 is slightly more orange, R37 is slightly more purple. RV29 is pinkisher. I would choose R27 Cadmium Red, since it's the 'purest' red.
YR04 YR14. Bold oranges, but YR14 is slightly more 'pumpkin', or natural, YR04 is a bit neon. Occasionally handy, but not very. I would choose YR05, since such a strong orange is unique and can be toned down with a YR or W marker. Making a pumpkin orange into a bright orange isn't as easy.
Y02 Y06 Y13. Light yellows, and Y02 and Y06 are practically the same. Y13 is a bit warmer, and Y02 a pinch cooler or lighter than Y06. But I would just get one of the three, probably Y06 Yellow.
G16 G17. Cool blueish greens. G16 seems a shade bluer but I honestly can't tell.
BG09 BG18. Dark greenish blues. BG18 is lighter and duller than BG09, and the difference is noticeable, but not big.
B05 B06 B14. Bold blues. B05 is slightly lighter than B06, and B14 is a bit softer, but no real difference. This set has so many blues already, just get one of them. I have no preference.
B23 B34. Denim-like blues. B23 is slightly lighter and cooler than B34. The difference is a bit bigger than most other 'samey' colors. I would choose just getting B23; since it's lighter I use that more.
B26 B37. B26 is slightly lighter than B37, and B37 is a mite closer to purple.
RV09 RV19 RV29. RV09 is lighter and redder, RV19 is the most purpley, and RV29 is redder than both. RV29 is a bit more different than both, but similar to the other reds (above), so I would keep RV19, since it's a good color between red and purple.
100 and 110. 'Black' and 'Special Black'. I have no clue what makes 110 so 'special', but it makes no difference to me; 100 seems 'blacker', so I keep that, and I replaced 110 with a 0 Colorless blender in COPIC box.SCANNING AND COLOR MATCH
Obviously, I can't get the colors to look exactly like they look on my sheet online, especially since every monitor is different. But I tried to do what I could, with the use of Levels in Photoshop. The best color-match I felt I could get is the large version.
The smaller versions are there for comparison. The 'Pure Scan' is the color chart unmodified from scanning. The -100 Level' has had the levels cranked down -100, which darkens and saturates the colors. The big version was modified to around -50, so something in between pure and -100.MARKER TIPS
Most of this you can learn on your own after a few hours of practice, so it's probably better just to play with them yourself XD .
Know the difference between marker types before buying! The Original Copics have a stiff fine-edge tip, and the Sketch Copics have a brush-like tip. (Sketch Copics are much more flexible to use, I highly recommend them) .
Some marker colors are extremely similar, or not very useful (see above section 'Repeat and Similar Colors') . Buying pre-picked sets like my A-Set can be good if you're new to colors/markers and don't know where to start, but once you get the hang of them, buying open stock and choosing your colors more carefully may be better. Definitely more economical!
Lighter colors will likely get more use from you than darker colors. This is because lighter colors tend to be the base color, and the colors that you will use to blend in the darker colors.
If you want your colors to blend, work from dark to light; the colors will blend naturally this way. Otherwise, you'll have to place a light base, shade over it, then blend the shading again with your base anyway. If you want sharper edges for a cel-shade look, fine details, etc., work from light to dark.
Additionally, dry edges and wet edges will be different. Consider your needs, then either color quickly (for softer edges and blending) or wait for the first layer to dry (for sharp edges).
Even if you use the same color, if you wait for one layer to dry, then color on top of it, there will be an 'edge' where your marker streaks are, especially if you go over it a few times. If you want super-subtle patterns or something, this may be handy.
0 Colorless Blender is a hit-and-miss blender that you will have to experiment with and try yourself to see how you like it. See below section on 0 Colorless Blender for details.
Markers tend to bleed through the paper, even really thick paper; keep a sheet underneath the paper you're drawing on so you don't bleed onto the table/next page/etc..
Markers also tend to bleed out on the sides. How much it does this depends on the paper you're using (experiment!), and how much and how quickly you're saturating an area. Leaving some leeway between the inking, waiting for layers to dry, and having a lighter touch can eliminate this problem. There are specialty marker papers on the market too, and smooth-surface drawing paper is better than textured (if it's advertised as good for inks, it's probably good for markers too) . WARNING: The 0 Blender, at least in my experience, tends to make the other colors bleed at the sides like crazy if not used very lightly.
Coloring large areas can be hard; it's good to try breaking up the area, or somehow adding stuff to the area to distract from uneven coloring. For example, adding patches of cloud into a sky, or a pattern design over a 'wallpaper' or floor tiles. Coloring over the area more than once, and quickly, will help make it more even. Putting down a layer of 0 Blender may also help, by making the area a bit damp to start with. [EX] The background patterns in these cards: [link]
The gray range (warm, cool, neutral) is a very handy range to tone done the super-bright colors of these markers, for a more natural, softer, or somber tone. They are also great as shading for 'whites' (or shading in general, really) .
Blending colors to make a new color can be handy, especially if you've got a limited amount of colors. Remember 1st grade and the color wheel, and see what new secondary colors you can get by blending primaries, or getting new shades of primaries by mixing similar/like colors. For example, I may want a greener light blue, so I'd put a layer of Y11 down before coloring over it with B01 or BG10.
If you have a small color range, color theory would be helpful here (look on dA, here's a great place to start: [link]
) . For example, shadows can be created by 'graying down' the same color with a gray range. OR by using darker tones of the same/similar color. OR by using different colors from the base entirely, like yellow base and pink shadow, or red base and brown shadow. ABOUT 0 COLORLESS BLENDER
This is a hit-and-miss item. Some people like it, some people don't. One of my favorite artists recommended against using this, because it doesn't blend the colors how she likes and just washes out the color. Another artist in a tutorial showed an example of using a blender, and it did seem to make a slight difference. They're both correct.
Blending the colors using just actual colors (ex. C5 to C3, RV11 to RV19) creates a smooth natural gradient with soft blended edges.
If you use 0 lightly, quickly, and sparingly, it won't bleed and can help a bit with 'normal' blending like you'd expect.
However, using more than a couple quick swipes of 0 will start to make the paper super-saturated with marker, and depending on your type of paper, make the other colors bleed at the edges. A LOT. For me, the marker bleeds way more than if I just used normal colors.
You will start to see parts of the color fade, even see slight whitish streaks, if you use a lot. In some instances you can even use it as a 'white color' marker (experiment) . This can actually be helpful if you've made an area a bit too dark, and want to wash some color away, but again, bleeding warning. [EX] Marigold's forehead area was lightened with 0: [link]
However! The paper is very important when it comes to 0 Blender's behavior. On specialty marker paper, for instance, the 'fading colors' is not an issue and it works like you would expect of a blender; this is because marker paper has a special layer on the back so that the marker -can't- bleed through the other side, so the color can't be bled through either.
0 can be good to blend colors into the 'white' of the paper, such as gray 'shadows' of a white shirt, or the edges of 'white' uncolored highlights in skin, hair, etc.. These instances can't be blended the 'usual' way, so 0 is great for that. [EX] White highlights in Marigold's hair was blended with 0: [link]
0 can also create some interesting watery iridescent effects. If you use it heavily, instead of the 'natural' blending you'd expect, the colors start to get a bit splotchy, bleedy, and streaky. While this can be disappointing for those wanting a normal blender, it could be helpful for special needs like, I don't know, atmosphere or insect wings. Warning, using 0 this way is the best way to get tons of bleeding at the sides like noted above.
So, I recommend, get one, try it out, see how you like it for what uses. It doesn't work exactly as one would expect, but you can get creative with it.