Gata OC by =mandalorianjedi
2/19/13 - Aluminum core. Rough form using epoxy resin. Proportions in bikini area will be corrected as more details are layered on.
2/21 - Made joint keys. Rough layer. Separate parts design for ease of painting, and for possibly turning it into a kit later.
2/25 - Some are interested in how I do "layering" in the way I sculpt, so I thought I'd show step-by-step how I layer on details to build up the torso. Basically, I built up a rough shape of the frame, with it being under-sized so that I could layer on additional clay to the right areas. I used water to smooth the clay onto the torso. The epoxy clay gave me about ~1 hour to work with before it started hardening enough that smoothing became increasingly more difficult. Also refined major joints so they fit snug and nice.
More refinement to come. Will work on face and legs next.
3/1 - The sequence of rough-forming the face is shown. The angle of the face tilt is not the same as the reference. I guess because a cape will need to added later, I will need to make head-body into two separate pieces, and correct head tilt then. The eyes still need refinement. Chin may need to be sharper. Haven't done this shape of mouth before.
4/19 - Extended the forehead upward. Made and keyed ears so that they are removable for ease of painting. Rough-formed main hair. Tail made and double-pinned in place to prevent rotation.
4/27 - Final layer-on clay: R & L thighs, R & L legs. Shaped & trimmed thighs, buns, legs to be symmetrical. Bulked up upper body (back, sides, ribcage, breasts). Layered hair, bangs. Built up arms. Refine all joints seams. Built up R & L hands. Main sculpt nearly done. Cape next.
5/6 - This final update includes all the undated pictures in the bottom third of the WIP collage.
- To make the cape, I first used aluminum foil to do a mock-up of the general shape and flow of the cape. Then I took the aluminum "cape" off and rolled enough clay to roughly match in size. The thin sheet of clay was then trimmed to size, and let sit for about an hour for it to semi-cure. At this point, it was still ply-able but not too soft. Then I fold it accordion-style, used small scissors to trim the frizzy bottom section, and then used tissues and a paper cup to support the final form.
- After it cures overnight, I then did a lot of sanding and patching to make it smooth and uniform in thickness.
- To make the bikini, I shaped clay to be the rough size, then goop vasoline on the torso, then finger-smoothed the clay onto the torso. Once in place and semi-cured, I used small scissors and trim it to final shape. The end metal rings were layered-on later.
- I prepped all parts for painting by doing final, fine-sanding, to smooth all surfaces and to get rid of any surface contaminants, like vasoline (which would have prevented paint from adhering to the surface). For the black "leather shine," I used Rust-oleum Painter's Touch Gloss Black. For the cape, I used alternating spray of Rust-oleum Painter's touch Gloss and Flat Black.
- to prevent over-painting details like the metal rings on ends of bikini, I used Fasmask liquid latex mask to cover them, then peel it off after spray paint. I also used Fasmask at joint surfaces so that the fit at the joint is not altered by the additional layer of paint.
- On the the rest of the figure I used Model Masters Acryl paints, which are acrylic paints. For the skin tone, I used airbrush application. For the rest, I hand-painted. To protect the painted surfaces, I sprayed Testors Dullcote on all non-black surfaces.
- In the finished configuration, all parts are separable, as shown in the last picture of the WIP.
This completes the Gata WIP.
For those who are interested, I hope this shows step-by-step how I sculpt and paint a figure.