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Additional info. for this tutorial : [link]

Also check out my foot casting tutorial, more useful info : [link]

12th Feb 2012 Hope this makes sense. I'll check for errors when I've got time.......:(

I actually felt nauseous and felt briefly like throwing up after many of the hairs had been pulled off my forearm...... Skin turned bright red from the hair pulling......

17th Feb I've made 2 more hands since this one, so will provide a 'supplementary' tutorial alongside this one SOON.....
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Comparing this badger claw to a real one : [link]

15th Jan 2012 Making my badger claw; a description of how I did it......:woohoo:

GROAN. The title should include 'glove 'in the picture, I havn't got time to change it..........:slow:

Also don't remove the glove for the 1st time without being totally sure it is 'cured' or dry........:slyfart:
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Revised DIY facecast from March 2012.....


I failed to mention in the tutorial :) if you have hair be careful to protect it from the plaster!!!! I've seen on the internet and been told that a bathing cap can be used for this. They are very elastic.
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Ravenwood Masks [link]

Making a negative mold out of #1 Pottery Plaster for casting a neoprene mask.

Sculpture made from WED clay over a 1/2 face hydro-cal lifecast.

You can also use this kind of mold for paper mache casting or latex casting.

This photo is for entertainment. It is not intended as a tutorial. There are far too many steps left out for this to be a useful tutorial.


Photos by Ravenwood Masks [link]
Completed mask photo by Dar Totten
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Face it:
Pigs are fast,fornicating,fantastic creatures who stink
of rancid awesomeness!
...Yeah,riiiight...
-------------------------------
[link]
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Come closer aaand...
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Not really what i had in mind...
But itīs kinda impossible to make a menacing face expression,when a dog nose covers your face :yum:

Thanks to ~binghamton for the background [link]
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Wolven Mask as modeled by my boyfreind mike. Its his for his character in a boffer larp. He is wearing some makeup to darken his exposed skin and also wearing black around his eyes and on his lower lop. Most of the makeup is airbrushed on.
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Awesome shot of Tau! I made this head a little while back and the owner shared this photo with me. LOVE how the contacts are working with this set, thats how its done yall.

Original photo taken by Scott Rankin at Rainfurrest 2014
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Plastic Mask Part is by Terra-Fen here on DA: terra-fen.deviantart.com/
AKA The Mad Masker: www.facebook.com/TheMadMasker
I just painted it

Sooo- this is costumeing for VTM, for Skin of the Adder. I am happier with how the mask turned out than I am with the cowel but on the whole it'll come together fine with some makeup.
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A redo of my old Ultracal mold tutorial, now with clearer text and pictures! I still had the sculpt from my coyote/medium canine nose, so I went ahead and whipped up a new tutorial with some additional tips I've learned since making the last one.

As always, if you have questions please feel free to ask!
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A tutorial on how I make my pawpads, using the material from this Instructable! [link]
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Finally! I've been meaning to do one of these for a while now. I think it's pretty thorough, but if you have questions, feel free to ask! Original formula is here: [link]
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Thanks to Bamadave for his awesome stock pic!
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Original picture here: [link]
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He got what he asked for ^^
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OK Here's a Quick Tutorial. It was late spending about 5 hours on side A to build up walls and stuff and do the plaster dental stone mold. Up to 2:20am to finally finish Side A.

Next day was easy spent about 1 hour + to make side B. Then the real adventures begin. De-molding is a like a delicate surgery especially with Hard clay. I had trouble opening it then I figured out a way (took the night off for this- No Rushing despite deadlines) to Use Hot Water to fill in the gaps after cracking the edges a little bit to find the separation line. Slowly filling and chiseling with flat chisels and separating both sides until it was effortless.

I had a rib muscle injury the other day riding on my scooter which end up being a good thing. Normally I would use my manly Hulk Power Muscles to pry these 2 open which would funking destroyed it. Luckily I compensated power with smarts and gently pry the 2 halves apart using the hot water method.

This is a good technique for all plaster molds. If you can't separate the 2 halves mold with a gentle handshake then don't do it.

Anyway Separating the head and melted the face gave me another Pet project idea: A demon Wolvy or Batty.

Now on to casting in latex... Urrrghhh!
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This is a Shaman Saber Wolf Skull Helmet from Disgaea. Apparently its a popular game.

This is one of the last of 2 castings made. The mold broke, repairable unless someone wants another casting. It will be in storage.

Commission for :iconabsol:
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FX School of Hard Knocks: Intro to the world of Propmaking.

OK a lot of nice people have written to me saying they want to learn how to do what I do and was wondering if I can share some secrets over NOTEs.

I don't want to seem like I'm blowing off you guys who are noobs to the Prop making but there are a few things you need to know before you waste money and time to find out this is not what you had in mind. So this is me giving you a basic picture of what it is like - in words.

First thing you guys need to know is "Prop Making" deals with making REAL LIFE PHYSICAL PROPS THAT ARE MADE WITH CHEMICALS AND A LOT OF MONEY COSTING MATERIALS THAT COULD BE HAZARDOUS TO YOUR HEALTH.  We make Real Things that can be seen and touched. We are not making drawings or concept art or some imaginary thing. So anything that is physical will need a lot of production time, creative skill, mental energy and a Whole Lotta materials!

Materials cost money:
- If you want to get into prop making, you gotta have a Day Job, Rich Mommy and Daddy, a Wife that believes in you or a Sugar Mama (that's what I got) to support you!
- If you don't have money just stick to pencil and paper and keep imagining them.
- The materials, if you had the money, need proper space as well to store away from the Sun, heat source or safe from your kids, where u sleep and away from your Pets!

Note: Another reason why I can't tell you specifics about materials cuz its different in every country. What I use and what you have is totally different. Brands of silicone are different and how much catalyst to use is vary by manufacturer and quality. Much of it is trial and error. So the Prop-making forums are your best shot.

The knowledge:
- OK There's no freaking way I can tell you guys everything there is to know about making Props, simply because I don't know everything, and there's lots to learn!
- How I learned what I do is mostly from Trial and Error by buying small samples of materials and doing a lot of tests making molds of small stuff and work from there.
- I also watch a lot of movie DVDs with extra bonus features on them on all the creature fx movies like Predator, Aliens and anything with special effects. Other videos are from John Brown Gnomon Workshop videos: the sculptor shows you how to sculpt and mold these things.
- Then everything else is from youtube looking for anything about: oil clay, sculpting, molding, silicone, casting, resin, fiberglass, etc.
- The rest you gotta use Google!
- If there is some reputable FX Studio in your town, no matter how small and insignificant they are, sign up to be their Intern and learn from the bottom up!

Trial by Fire... and resin fiberglass: Mental Preparation
Prop making is all about effort.Mentally, physically and creatively.  You will FAIL about 100 times before you get the results you want. It's about skill and technical knowledge to properly use the materials safely and taking care of them. These materials won't just come together and produce nice looking Predator Helmets. Don't I wish? LOL  

Most important when going into this Prop making for hobby or business is: Your heart gotta be in it. Otherwise you will give up after a few weeks.

You really must possess a resilient mind that see Failure = Challenge that can be overcome.  Whether its mistakes or accidents or simply poor planning you will mess up. You will forget to do something simple like applying mold release or Vaseline, it will mess up days and hours of work and a lot of materials will be lost. Nothing you can do but work through it. Experienced Pros still makes these simple mistakes which is why they work methodically, planning everything and knowing what they need to do BEFORE they do it.

This is something I myself have to learn the hard way and for 3 years I am still forgetting simple things. I've learned to: pre-plan more and do less, unless I know what to do.

But what ever happen if this is something is in your heart and this is something you want to do as a hobby or potential business as an Artist, you will prevail!

I took a personality test (MBTI) and I found out I was a "INTJ". In short I am someone perfect for this Prop making because I see failure, problems as challenges that can be solved. But in any case a strong mental out look and persistence will give you the results you see in my gallery. Without this you won't get anywhere.


Temper Temper: Accidents will happen.
You will see your money go down the drain whether you've add too much catalyst to the silicone or simply Ooops knocked a gallon of resin on the floor and spilled it out and anything similar. Mistakes will drive u crazy but it will also make you learn. So that is why we fuck up. Don't give up. Salvage what you can and if you can't, let it go. "No use crying over spilled resin"

Whether you mess up sculpting, or have a perfectly sculpted piece to have your cat or your clumsy ass elbow knock it on the floor, you gotta chill out. It happens. I don't know how many times I've scraped clay off accidentally cuz I didn't plan my working space well and such. You will get frustrated and very easily. Freaking poltergeists in the studio will mess with you. The Gods of Props will test your heart and whether you have what it takes to make into the Halls of Prophallar.

Safety:
Very simple. All the materials you use will either produce toxic gases, irritate your eyes and lungs, seep into your fingernails and skin to cause swelling and most of them will eventually give you Cancer!  Stan Winston died from a blood cancer that's a result of these chemicals so wear latex gloves, respirators and safety goggles. Read the instruction manuals that come with the chemicals before you even buy it. Smooth-on.com has a lot of MTSD data sheets you can download for any materials you are interested in on how to use it and what precautions you need to take to use it. Learn as much as you can before spending 1 cent on them. If you don't know, email them, call them and find out online as much as you can. Then buy it, take it home and use in small amounts. When you get a hang of it then go ahead and use it!

Have a water machine nearby:
If you work long hours in the studio or in your garage, especially in the summer, prepare to sweat! I now wear goretex athletic type clothing that allows easy evaporation cuz I work hard non stop all day. You will be prying plaster mold halves and carrying gallons of silicone around or simply trimming 20 resin fiberglass masks, you will be sweating a little. Even if you don't do heavy production and its just one mask, you will also feel the heat. OK I'm exaggerating. LOL

It's hard work. That's why you will sweat. If you're one of those people who think "Oh I'm damn talented" Prop making will test you!  Professional FX people are so hard core that even when they are totally exhausted working late hours they still need to produce Top Quality results catching impossible deadlines.

In conclusion, Prop making is all about Fun, backed by a lot of hardwork.

Don't sweat it if you mess up. We are all humans. Have fun doing it. I almost gave up many times. But I took breaks, mental breaks, physical breaks and psychological breaks. Give it time you will get the results you want. You will learn. There is nothing I can tell you over notes that will be the "end all be all, ultimate knowledge." I am still learning and I fuck up EVERYDAY. There's no point showing you a gallery or mistakes or maybe I should? LOL.

There are tons of Propmaking forums out there with a lot more people who will put me to shame with what they know. Learn from them as I have. Visit these forums to start. There are more and you can always search with google.

www.thehunterslair.com
www.therpf.com

A Video behind the scenes of what I do: vimeo.com/3831765

So have Fun doing it. Once you start to get the results you want, you will feel fulfilled with a sense of accomplishment. This is my true goal: obtain achievement through my hard work.

This FX prop making really builds character. If you can get some materials to come together like a symphony, planning and prepping all steps and perfecting your methodology and creating beautiful music, even if it's only audible by your own ears, you have achieved Perfection… or come close to it, its good enough.

Good Luck and have Fun making Props!

Written by Mike Loh
michaelloh.deviantart.com
Before you send me questions about making Props. Please read this.
If you want to get into prop making read this before you start.

Thanks for your understanding.

Here's my Mike the Mask Maker Video: [link]

My Bone-Hunter in Chinajoy: www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXTl1zD8WjU
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Always remeber of the previous generations, not even in your family but in the whole word. Because they deserve it.


Page 74: gemini30.deviantart.com/art/To...

Page 76: gemini30.deviantart.com/art/To...
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Here it's the scene from the first pages: [link]
Mazuri means "pleasant" and Adowa means "noble"



Page 27: [link]

Page 29: [link]
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Pericles is a young teen (13) but he is incredibly tall ans beefy for his age. For exemple Iphigenia medium size lioness( a little bit taller, but just a little bit) but she is more beefy.
And Ajax ( the brother) is relatively small, and not beefy.


Page 21: [link]
Page 23: [link]
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my new poster :)
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After the sculpt has been walled up, it is ready for moulding.

I used TOMPS Value Range silicone to mould this project, with a slow catalyst. (Although I prefer the fast catalyst, as I am impatient, but it is VERY fast)

The silicone is degassed in a vacuum chamber before being poured on.

The first layer of silicone is a detail layer, and is poured on in a thin layer so it flows into all the details.
The second layer, which is applied after the first layer has cured, is a much thicker layer, which builds up the thickness and strength of the silicone.

I thickened my silicone using cab-o-sil (fumed silica) powder, (but in future I would use a thixotropic additive for the silicone, as I found the cab-o-sil slowed the cure of the silicone)

After the thicker layer has been applied, I put keys into the silicone, so that the fibreglass jacket has something to 'grab hold of'. The keys are little rectangles of silicone I cast out earlier.

Once the silicone has cured, it's time to apply the fibreglass jacket. I walled up down the centre of the mould in clay, and brushed shellac over the clay to seal it, as moisture inhibits the cure of polyester resin.

I wet out my fibreglass on a silicone mat, as it's easy to clean, and is reusable.

The fibreglass jacket consists of a gelcoat layer, then two fibreglass matting layers, finished with a layer of fibreglass tissue, which makes the mould much nicer to handle than a sharp, spiky mess of fibreglass matting.

Once I have glassed out one side of the mould, I trim it with a sharp knife before it cures, to neaten up the mould, and then wait for it to fully cure.
The clay wall is removed, and the fibreglass flange is released with lard (my preferred release agent, as it is cheap and easy to use.)

The glassing process is then repeated for the other half of the mould.

Once both sides of the mould have cured, I drill holes for bolts before taking the mould apart, as this ensures the mould is in the correct place once it is put together.

Next stage is casting out the resin skull.
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The ears are hand sewn onto the hood of the mask. They are constructed from plastic canvas, covered with fur.

The fur is airbrushed with Com-Art acrylic airbrush paints.

The fabric for the clothes was custom dyed to match the feature fabric I initially bought - all of the swirls are fabric appliqued onto the clothes.

So, finally, we have a full costume - an oryx mask with a moving jaw, digigrade feet, and a costume to boot.
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