I recently made my Attack on Titan boots for my Hanji cosplay for Aki Con, and I had a few people ask me how I made them, so here is a little tutorial!
This is my first time making one, and it took 3 hours to put together X'D My gawd! So much more respect for people that make these OTL
--- I am FAR FROM AN EXPERT and this is just one of many ways you can make these boots. But hopefully it will be of some help to people ^^ ---
S/N: If there is something I've made that you would like me to do a tutorial on let me know. I can't do a full costume tutorial because it would be to hard and long to explain, but if there is a part of a costume or sewing/building technique I will try my best! ---------------------------------
EDIT Because I've been getting some repeating questions, I'll post a mini FAQ..
How much fabric did you use? I bought 1m and had almost half of it left over, but this depends on the width of your fabric, so picture 4 boots laying down ^^'
What does the bottom look like?/Does the heel stick out? Yes, the heel sticks out and the bottom of the cover. I use heel boots for this reason since it keeps the boot cover from twisting and shifting while you walk. Also if your a clutz like myself, then the extra traction is awesome!
Can I use flats/bare feet/shorter boots I used tall boots because... - they are easy to trace (tracing your leg is a pain in the ass) - They protect your feet - They give the boot covers a strong stiff surface to rest ageist - and you will not see any shoe lines or pant bunchies
But in the end you can do whatever you want, this is a guide line using methods I have tested and that have worked for me.
There are so many different things you can do with pre-existing patterns to get what you want in a costume. This tutorial just lists a few examples, but hopefully it's something that can get you started if you've never tried this before! Some experience with patterns might be required to understand this to the fullest.
Also, please excuse my typos. XD I made this late at night haha.
Attack on Titan/Shingeki no Kyojin is (c) Hajime Isayama
I decided to make this so every one could know how to put on pony ears and unicorn horns. I asked my boyfriend to make ears for me since I wasn't happy with the ones out there and wanted them to look more like G4 ears. After a few tries at making clay ones he finally got them right! and I am so happy with them!!
So my boyfriend, Alex, made the ears out of clay, then made a mold of them and casted them out of resin. Then painted them. I made the unicorn horn out of clay and he did the rest. for sale at his etsy shop at orihalcon2015.etsy.com We will also be selling these at Everfree NW! and if we have any spares they will be for sale at Kumori!
if you have any questions please let me know (i'm not very good at making tutorials).
Sorry for the poor photo quality. Photos of the completed product can be found on *Piperonni's account.
All of the armor is made from leather. The coat fabric is linen. Heavy snaps were used to secure the armor closed on both the arms and legs. The shoulders are attached via a harness on her chest. The details are on both the arms and the legs. The lighting makes it hard to see, but you can see it in the finished product.
I've been taking a fair number of pictures as I've been working over the past few days on my Jack Frost Cosplay. I still have a ways to go, but here is what I've gotten done so far.
(Comments, Image by Image basis) 1. I bought a piece of white Styrofoam. God awful stuff, but it did the job. Helped me get the angles and make the hook part of the staff more light weight. I then used floral wire (not pictured) and connected the pieces before gluing them together in place (I used SEVERAL wires per piece).
2. These are the pants I purchased, from walmart. You can see the before on the left side and the after (painted) on the right.
3. Totally out of order, but this is my staff as it stands now. It has 3 coats of paper mache, and about five layers of paint. It still is missing the elwire (as it hasn't come in the mail yet).
4. Also out of order. This is my staff after the last layer of paper mache. This layer I took a lot of time to make texture with it (which helped in the painting a lot).
5. The beginning of coat one of paper mache. I worked on this coat for two days before I finished it. Things to note: paper mache does not stick to that type of foam without a fight. The paper mache strengthened the hook pieces a lot once it was dry.
6. A detail shot of the second layer of paper mache. I wasn't worried about making it perfect because I knew that I was going to cover it with a 3rd, very textured layer.
7. Be sure to take a trip to McDonald's and buy a happymeal, it could have one of these bad boys inside (he shoots little round cardboard snowflakes).
8. My staff after two layers of paint. I painted with a medium brown to start (due to the fact I had the most medium brown and I knew I was going to need a base coat), and then completely painted over it with a dark brown.
9. This is me, being weird, because I can, and I don't have a roommate (basically I'm wearing everything as completed as it is at this very moment).
10. A detail shot of the jacket. This was just taken from a different picture (not shot specifically). I basically zoomed it to 100% and then cropped a section out of it just to show what it looks like closeup.
11. Movies (percy jackson and the olympians) are great while you wait for layers of paint or paper mache to dry. Featured are two of my friends (one of which will be working on a toothiana outfit for the same con I'm wearing jack to!)
As promised, here's a tutorial on how I made my Judal wig! After learning more about spray/expanding foam, I decided to give it a shot since it would be cost efficient and less messy than shaving down normal Styrofoam balls. This youtube video by Mogrymillian is a great intro to using spray/expanding foam! [link]
The awesome part was that it wasn't too heavy! It stayed on my head even before I added wig clips, though I did add some anyway in both the front and back just in case. It only started to feel heavy after I had been wearing it for a few hours.
I'll also go ahead and post photos from using insulation foam and upholstery foam, though I feel the expanding foam is my favorite so far.
It's been a while since I've uploaded a wig tutorial here! Part of my job at Arda is making handy tutorials for our customers, but since they're videos I usually just keep them to our Youtube channel. If you don't already keep up with the Arda-Wigs youtube, check them out here: www.youtube.com/user/ArdaWigs
This tutorial is specifically for Arda-wigs, which have heat-resistant fibers (so they can survive being boiled). Do not attempt this on wigs that are not heat-resistant!
EDIT: For those asking on Pip's account about putting the papermache into the oven, it should be noted that paper burns at 450 degrees. I put the mask, with the papercmahe, into the oven at 270 degrees. I assure you that it will not catch fire if you wish to do this yourself. I left the mask in the oven for ten minutes (enough for it to harden) and then removed it. No fire, no burned edges, or any type of damage was done. Just because it's paper does not mean it will immediately burst into flame the moment it touches any amount of heat; that's a silly assumption.
The first photo is the base. So that the sculpey would hold its shape I made a papermache positive out of my fiancee's face. I then reinforced the inside using cardboard strips and hot glue. I then smoothed sculpey on top of the papermache mask and smoothed it out as best as possible using cotton balls and 90% rubbing alcohol.
It was then cooked in the oven at 275 for 15 minutes. After I removed the mask from the oven, several minutes was allowed for the mask to cool enough to handle. The hot glue rig, on the inside, was melted, thus making the removing of the papermache easy. The mask was then smoothed and sanded to a fine finish.
After a period of two days, and filling in cracks and holes with sculpey and bondo, gray primer was used to make the imperfections more visible. At this point in time there was a lot of sanding and filling just to make sure everything was a perfectly smooth as I could manage.
After the final priming the mask was hand painted to give it a handcrafted, porcelain look.