TutorialI'm just going to copy and paste this from my gallery journal, sorry
(Sounded a bit like Prof Farnsworth there...)
I've released my old tutorial, Armature to Art Doll. It's been up on the website Doll Makers Dream for the past couple of years to encourage people to do their own research (easy to find if you googled 'art doll tutorial') but I see no harm in taking it out of storage.
I'd like to point out (as I have in the first part) that it is dated. I don't personally make dolls like this anymore. In fact, amongst other things, I completely scrapped wire armatures recently in favour of plastic ball-and-socket armatures. However it serves a perfect purpose of getting you started in the basics of doll making
One thing I would add is that I haven't made armatures for the feet in a long, long time. When I used wire I twisted a little loop in the end with pliers to stop the fimo from spinning or the wire from coming out. Also copper can discolour
Resin casting mold advice/help?I want to start making dolls with resin parts but have never used resin or molds before.Resin casting mold advice/help?3 months ago in Personal More Like This
I don't know what kind would be best (recommendations would be awesome), though I am considering the pourable smooth-on.
But the pourable smooth-on says it should not be used with clay that contains sulfur which I believe sculpey has.
Does it cause the mold to not form properly? Or does it just make the resin cloudy? (which doesn't matter as I will be painting it).
Also if you use an armature do you attach it after the resin has set or do you stick in in as its curing?
What's the best way of doing fragile/thin parts?
How do you get a small seam/not noticeable line where the mold was cut?
Any help is appreciated.
Submitted by :icontealxultimate:~TealXUltimate
Airbrush tips/advice?I've been debating and debating on whether to get one or not, finally decided to get one.Airbrush tips/advice?1 month ago in Personal More Like This
My question to you all is which airbrush do you prefer, which are good? What to avoid kind of thing.
Also any advice once you have one!'
Any help is appreciated! thanks!
Shipping and Tracking Art Dolls Internationally~CMWyvern asked me recently about the different terms used when sending parcels internationally and I felt it's information that would be useful to a lot of people.Shipping and Tracking Art Dolls Internationally3 months ago in Personal More Like This
This journal is focused on the different options courier companies offer - insurance, tracking and delivery confirmation - rather than how to package your item (but I can do a journal on that too if people are interested).
Insurance is essential incase the postal service lose your parcel, it means they will compensate you for the value of the contents lost and that will enable you to make a replacement to send to your customer. You need to have proof that the contents were worth what they were worth when making a claim, so check your couriers website for more info on that. You may need to include something like invoices in the parcel, or make sure the invoices you send have very clearly what was in the parcel, the address of the person it was going to and how much they paid. This needs to be an official printed document
Glass Eyes:iconLyrak: =Lyrak asks: "OK, question for folks who use glass/resin eyes for their sculpted portions: where the heck do you find them??? I am having trouble finding eyes of the correct size for stuff like this. o.o; "Glass Eyes1 year ago in Personal More Like This
I know of two places you can buy eyes.
US: Van Dyke's Taxidermy
Personally I use a 10-14mm eye for my dolls. That is a standard size for birds, amphibians, some mammals and dolls so it's quite a common size to find.
You can also make your own if you have the time or inclination. You need to make a mould of a marble or something similar using platinum silicone, then when the silicone has cured you pour in crystal clear resin. You must use platinum silicone as tin silicone (RTV - room temperature vulcanization) silicone will inhibit the cure of the resin and it will stay tacky forever. You can paint the back of the resin cabochon with acrylics, inks, watercolours or
Finishes for Polymer Clay and Acrylic Paint:Edit:Finishes for Polymer Clay and Acrylic Paint4 months ago in Personal More Like This
Thought I should let you all know, I am now using varathane and I just LOVE the stuff. It works great on just about everything, too. It's fairly cheap, a small can will keep you going for a long time. Just transfer a little bit into a small jar to use, so that you keep the main can closed and undisturbed as much as possible. Also it doesn't have much of a smell at all, much less than the sculpey brand varnish, so you can use it indoors and paint little things right next to your nose without feeling like you are poisoning yourself.
The glossy kind is very nice, and with multiple coats you can get things VERY shiny. The satin kind is NOT matte, but more of a dull shine. Do NOT use it if you want a perfectly matte surface. I do not know if there is a true matte varnish; I have decided just to leave the paint unvarnished where it needs to be very matte.
Please note that they changed the labeling somewhat on the cans not all that long ago, I think it doesn't say diamond on it anymore
Flexible, realistic scales for dollsI've run into a design dilemma. I am trying to find a solution to scales on a posable doll.Flexible, realistic scales for dolls3 months ago in Personal More Like This
this was the original concept sketch. In the end, I decided to change the facial structure, but plan on keeping the body fairly similar.
Here's what Epsilon looks like now. I want to carry the scale design over into the belly scales, and possibly a few accents. The issue is how to go about doing such. We've had a few ideas rolled around, and have only ruled out methods. Seeing as this doll will be around 3 and 1/2 feet long, cost is a concern.
~ Scales need to be flexible, so to avoid interfering overly much with the movement of the doll.
~ Scales need to be 3-D, able to take texture and customized details, and in the end apply a sealant to achieve a scaley, shiny look.
~ Scales need to be able to be sewn onto the fur fabric
~ Scales need to be custom done in varying sizes, and quite a few of them. castings won't work here.
Has anyone done somethin
Poseability and Fabric patternsI've been doing a bit of sewing recently and am curious about the best patterns to use for poseabilityPoseability and Fabric patterns1 month ago in Personal More Like This
My current project has a super long neck, and I'm not sure if it would be more poseable if I just did a rectangular shape for both sides of the neck or gave it a slight "S" shape.
When posing long furry necks does the fabric have very noticeable wrinkles?
When doing legs have you found separating the inner legs from the belly gusset better for poseability or is it better to leave them attached?
My last project I left the belly gusset and inner legs together and it came out well enough but did still have large folds where the legs would be.
I'll be very interested to see the discussion on this topic as pattern drafting is definately not my strong point and any advice is treasured!
How to Advertise you WorkOriginally posted in #JewelersGuild, a group I co-founded. I felt others may benefit from this as wellHow to Advertise you Work6 months ago in Art Features More Like This
Recently someone posted a comment asking people to advertise for them. This has in turn led us to the conclusion that it is high time we wrote something about advertising your work. Not everyone knows this subject very well, or how to go about doing it.
First thing you need to know is that you must be the one to do the work. Don't ask someone else and offer a portion of the profits. That is considered rude, and quite lazy. You don't want that. You want to make a good impression. First impressions go a long way. Now if someone offers to advertise your work that's something else entirely.
Secondly, know who your customers are. This is something a lot of people don't consider, and thus do not know how to advertise their work properly. For example let's say you make steampunk jewelry. Your primary customers would be those who are into steampunk. Is your wo
Pricing 101Pricing 101Pricing 1012 months ago in Personal More Like This
How to determine what you should charge for your work
In light of the absolutely horrendous commission page DA started up which encourages artists to sell their work for literally pennies, let me talk about pricing artwork. Or more specifically, how I price my work.
This...guide? Advice? Thing? Highlights what I've learned about pricing throughout the last few years. I do not touch on the subject of beginner pricing, simply because there are no set guidelines for that and beginner pricing usually ends up being extremely subjective. This guide assumes that the reader is somewhat experienced in their craft and is looking for pointers on pricing. However I still highly encourage beginners to read! This is what pricing should be like, not mere pennies for hours upon hours of work. This also focuses on crafts and sewing but a lot of it is s
Art Doll Q+A groupIf you have a specific question about making art dolls you should take a look at the #PosableArtDolls group. We have an open blog so you can submit your question and every person who follows the group will see it in their message centre and will be able to answer.Art Doll Q+A group3 months ago in Personal More Like This
So far we have had :
These are problem-solving questions specific to peoples personal projects and some general advice. All of it is useful and interesting, so please add the group to your watch-list if you feel like helping or submit your journal if you're stuck!
Please remember to be polite.
For very basic and general questions about making your first art doll please refer to my tutorial Armature to Art Doll:
FAQsHey did you know it's really rude to go up to someone and sayFAQs2 years ago in Personal More Like This
"Hey I love what you're doing! I don't want to pay for it though. Tell me how to do it so I can try myself."
If I had a shop you wouldn't come into it and ask for all my secrets, would you? The same applies here. Don't get butthurt when I give you a grumpy rebuke - this is my living!
1. How do you attach the fimo to the fur?
I glue it on with hot glue or bostik multi-purpose. Some artists like to make holes in the sculpt and sew it on.
2. How do you dye fake fur?
You CAN'T! It's impoooosiblleeeee. I tried masses of "confirmed" techniques, involving messy and sometimes stinky dyes, and none of them really worked. The best way I have found is to use dylon fabric paints and just brush them with a nail brush. Here's a video tutorial that is along the same lines, although I wouldn't use acrylic paint personally: http://youtu.be/RPA8Y6GcD6E My favourite method is to buy fabric in the right colour
Pony ResourcesI'm routinely updating this post with new resources that people send me. So feel free to send me links to tutorials or other informational posts/deviations/links that you think might be helpful to plushy makers!Pony Resources1 year ago in Personal More Like This
I've been putting together a new list of pony resources over the last few weeks. It's been a while since I did the first journal post on the topic and unfortunately a lot of the original links went dead when !BabyLondonStar deactivated her account. I also wanted to include some links for other non-eye and mark related things that I've found over the time I've been on deviantART.
There's a really cool tutorial by *BeeZee-Art for making spiral plushie horns that I thought folks might like to see for their unicorns. I think you could also apply it to plushies where the horn is sewn in already, getting your needle in there might be a little harder though.
Once you've finished sewing your pony you may want to take