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High time for some new textures :love:
This time with leaves and sparkling dust.

Download to get all 4 high-res textures!

Rules are in my Journal

R E L A T E D textures

:pointr: My Textures Collection
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My first tutorial ever, so please be nice XD

Earlier today I made a poll asking if I should make a coloring tutorial... and before I even got time to get answers, I got motivated to make a practice one.
So, before I make any coloring tutorials (if I do....) here is a practice line art tutorial.
It was kind of fun to put together~

Let me know what you guys think and what I should work on for the actual coloring tutorials ^^ thanks~
Also let me know if you have any questions =3

I wont be posting the others until the picture I drew in this tutorial is finished.

(the character in this tutorial is my ragnarok online character)
Also ... please excuse my terrible spelling >_>

For my skin tutorial go here: [link]
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Today’s Photoshop Brushes are for achieving the traditional ink painting effect.

I really like the energy of traditional ink sketches and paintings, so I thought it would be fun to create some brushes that mimic that effect. If feels good to sketch with them, and they make gesture studies a lot of fun.

For brush requests, ideas for future brush sets, or related questions you can email me at

The set contains three different brushes:

  • The first one is a fully loaded ink brush. This brush gives you control over your sketch, while still retaining the traditional feel.
  • The second brush mimics an ink pen. You have less control over it, but the effect is more dramatic. If you press it hard it paints ink drips on your canvas.
  • The third one is a dry brush; I tried to go for the “Chinese ink” type of feel.


Set a paper texture in the background and paint over it for a pleasant traditional effect.

Try varying the opacity between 80-100% when painting.

Use the smudge tool to add drama to the effect.

All my brushes are FREE to use both in commercial and personal art.
I do not request credit or back linking, but if you do I'll take it as a kind gesture.
If you want to keep up with the latest content you can subscribe to my weekly newsletter at

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kingdom key transparent gif:

                    transparent kingdom key by finaformsora

here's my life size version:

             Kingdom Key by finaformsora

It might need some small touch ups before I cast a mold for it, but other than that it's good to go.
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Firts part of my tutorial, comments and questions are welcome.
Part 2 is here, [link]

hope you like!
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EDIT: I fixed the cut off words :D Also, now that I look back, I don't think those are my lineart settings looks strange to me....

My computer hated this with a passion! Poor computer.
Big file is BIG! Sorry!! Apologies for any spelling or grammar mistakes.

My first tutorial because :iconrukaisa: and :iconhakadirune: were asking questions about sai that I couldn't explain without showing them because I fail!
Anyways, I hope this helps!

Tutorial I used for eyes:[link]
Characters :iconrukaisa:
Art and tutorial is by meeeee!

Finished picture:[link]
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Photo set comes with eight photos of eight different angles.

Please be sure to read, understand and accept our rules before using our stock.
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Someone request a tutorial, so...I did^^
Sorry my bad english!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ( I don't speak english )
I hope you enjoy guys! :squee:
Final result: [link]
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4/2/13 Update:

Additional dye works. Some of these involve a higher concentration of lycra/spandex to cloth ratio, so these required both fabric dye and paint:

Purple leotard and gloves for Aria: [link]
Fleshy skin-tone for Lady Lilith: [link]
Basically everything green for Rydia: [link]
2-tone purple hat and leotard for NiGHTS: [link]

11/29/11 Update:

A few images from my gallery of where I dyed spandex so you can see the wide array of possibilities:

Everything blue for Darth Simi: [link]
The green and red in this photo of Saki Omokane: [link]
The skin tone, lavender, and black were dyed for Cloud of Darkness: [link]

Remember to always test a swatch first for desired effect!

Detailed Steps:

First how-to guide! Apologies for the crappy lighting. The bathroom was not made for fancy. I had a few people message me after seeing my journal entry, so here we go!

I’d recommend using white spandex as your starting color. I’ve been dyeing for at least 10 years and have gone through a myriad of fabric types. Cotton, spandex, suede, leather, pleather, vinyl. You name it. This particular layout is intended for fabrics that have at least 8% spandex, but no more then 40%.

Note: This method can be used for polyester blends as well since the focus is on keeping the water hot so color fuses to the fibers.

Spandex takes time to dye. Most websites will recommend you use fabric paint, not dye, and paint the spandex. However, it can be difficult to achieve an even color doing this. Because it’s a synthetic fiber, spandex needs heat to fuse the dye to the fabric. The reason that I like this method? Clean up is incredibly easy (damp paper towel and wipe out the cooler. No stains!), more control over your color, easier gradient dyeing, and consistent heat (compared to a sink/bathtub/washer).

1. I like to add in more water then indicated on the fabric dye packages. I know. Bad me. But they ask that the fabric be able to move freely in the water, and I’m usually dyeing 2-3 yards at a time. You can’t move 3 yards of fabric in 4 cups of water. Thus, the cooler gets filled about halfway. It’s still possible to obtain the shade on the box of dye with more water. It just takes a little bit longer. The water should be hot, but not so hot that you can’t put your hands in (no issues with stained hands so far due to the excess H2O).

2. Adding salt, 5 tablespoons, helps reduce the fabric’s tendency to resist the dye. Science time! The fabric and the dye have negatively charged electrons and, as such, they will repel each other. Salt helps to reduce the electronegativity and allows the dye and fabric to form a chemical bond. Stir salt in the water until dissolved. After the salt, add the dye and stir until dissolved.

3. Add in your fabric and stir for about 15 minutes. Dylon and Jacquard will dye about a 1/2 pound of fabric per package. If you are dying more then that, your color will turn out lighter then the shade on the package. To compensate, keep the fabric in longer. For this tutorial I used Jacquards China Blue color for about 2.5 yards of fabric. It ended up taking about 3 hours to dye to the color on the package.

4. After the initial 15 minutes of stirring, close the cooler and let it sit for about 45 minutes. Make sure the fabric is completely submerged in the water before you close the cooler. Come back, check on the fabric, and stir it for a few minutes. Close it and do an hourly check/stir. Allow the fabric to get at least a shade darker then your intended outcome. The darker you want your fabric to be, the longer it’ll take. Lighter shades can take about 1-2 hours. Darker shades 3-5 hours.

5. Rinse the fabric with cool water. Continue rinsing until the water runs clear. This can be done in a sink in a few minutes without any stains. You would do this step with almost every type of fabric dyeing to ensure that the color has fused to the fabric. This can cause your fabric to go lighter because you’re removing excess dye. That’s why you should make it a littler darker in the initial dye, or it’ll be too light when you’re rinsing it out.

6. Squeeze out as much of the water as you can before you hang your fabric up to dry. I hung mine on hangers in a well-ventilated bathroom that has a fan. I’d strongly recommend covering your floor with layers and layers of newspaper, or paper towels, or even paper bags from the grocery store. Spandex likes to hold water, so it’ll drip, even after you wring it out. Depending upon how much fabric you have dyed, drying can take a couple of hours.

My result was the color as indicated on the package. While this takes longer then the stove-top method, I find this is a great alternative with little to no worry about staining your home. ^^ Next time I do this, I’ll take better pictures. Thanks for reading! Constructive feedback appreciated.
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Texture made from a watercolor background painting.

If you use a stock photo of mine, please link back to this page and give credit. I would also love to see how my stock was used, so please note me or comment here!

If you like my stock, please check out my regular account:
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