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:star: ALL artwork in my gallery is to me, Meagan McCoy (SKTAF). do not use, reproduce, redistribute or modify my work or literature in any way without my written permission.

Check my journal 'Use of Artwork' terms. If you wish to contact me, note me. :star:

I sort of condensed a few of my other tutorials into one. I have a separate on lips, eyes, and facial shape. This is simplified for drawings only and not painting. :)


artwork copyright- ~SKTAF

Feather- step-by-step-

feel free to share with others.
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  The last in a 3-part set of tutorials by :iconkingovan:. I hope that anyone who reads this learns in some way :) Do take it with a pinch of salt of course!
  I try not to write my tutorials with generic guidelines and measurements - You can find those easily on line. All these tutorials I do describe my own trial & errors, my own achievements and mistakes (especially since this is kinda on...well...girls). All the little things I picked up as I walked the path of the artist (*___*)

Anyhow, like any true tutorial, I must say -

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This is made for fun and those who remember the good old days of getting these for Christmas in the 1980's. This can be made and used to place under a small Xmas Tree for a little old school Diorama of an 1980's style Xmas. hehe ;) This is part of a series of cubees i have made for Christmas.

I adjusted the Cubeecraft / Papercraft idea to make mini-scale version of this old Star Wars toy box of the old Death Star Playset. OK I know its not exactly the same as the 'Real' version. This is made just for fun to the good old days! Here is a photo of some of the other Mini Old toy boxes i have done to see what they would look like when put together [link]

And some more of these Old School Toy boxes can be found here [link]

Also there are some more of my Christmas Cubees (including Snowmen, Santa, The Grinch, Gingerbread men) can be found here [link]

Star Wars (c) Lucasfilm
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Rendered in Lightwave.
Planet Stock.  Free to use, just drop us a link if you do :) 
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Photo: Akapico

>->->->->->->->-> Rules ->->->->->->->->->->->->

1. Credit me, link back to the deviation you use - no matter if you upload it on deviantart or your personal homepage or anywhere else.

1.1  please send me a fullsize, logo-free copy, so that i can use it for my portfolio on and off DA as well (mentioning your name if you wish)

2. You don't need to ask for permission if you want to use my photos but you have to write a comment under the photo you use or send a note with a link to your deviation. Even if you submit it outside dA!
I offer stocks for free so you could at least tell me what you do with my stuff ;) (Wink) (Wink)

3. Don't use my stock photos to create new stock or claim my photos as your own!

4. You may submit prints on dA or redbubble etc - as long as you credit me.

5. Commercial use / Publications
Please send a note for the details to KittiraCatinka or and don’t forget that, even if you publish a book or anything else i want to be credited.
Please understand that, if you want to sell your works for bookcovers or CD-Artworks I would like to get a copy of the book / CD / magazine / flyer etc, also i want to get Paid... it has to be fair:) (Smile) if youre making Money with my face , i should at least get something out of it ,too :D (Big Grin)

6. If you use my photos and I like them it might happen that I upload them on my portfolio. Of course I will give credits to your gallery!

Thank you! <3
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Whelp... here you go! Thought this might be useful for some sculptors out there. I'm using the eyes for a bjd I'm making, but of course this can be adapted to fit other purposes as well.

I'm reaaallly sorry that the quality of the tutorial itself isn't that great... my computer isn't working and I don't want to go downloading programs on my little brother's computer which I borrowed/stole for the time being, so I had to do this all in Paint. Igh. Paint. It kills every could-be-decent picture it touches.

(P.S! If you make eyes using this method, you should link me! I'd be glad to see! :D)
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I liked this character...he's such a klutz :giggle:

- Game: Adam's Venture-Episode 2: "Solomon's Secret"
- Developed by: Vertigo Digital Entertainment
- Published by: Iceberg Interactive

For use in XNALara 9.6/higher
With XNALara 9.7.8 you can move the hat way out of sight :)
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I really struggled to learn how to color using traditional media. So I hope this might help people scale the learning curve.

For a few years this was my "formula" for doing commissions, and when I have to get something done sketchy and quick, but still want it to look halfway decent, I'll take this approach. In this tutorial I'm using Prismacolor markers.

So we obviously start with lineart.

It's important that you use pens that won't bleed. Faber-Castell Pitt artist pens work great, and they're india ink. So they won't change color over time. I've also used Microns (which tend to bleed easier) and Staedler pens (which are sometimes hard for me to find.)

At this point I just go in with a thin line, not worrying about line weights, because I'm going to go over the lines again at the end. More about that later.


LIGHT PEACH = base skin tone

Decide where your light source is coming from. Here it's coming from the viewer's right. I tend to leave white (i.e. not coloring over) the parts where I know I want it to shine. Nose, chin, maybe a cheek, etc.

My marker here was going a little dry, but it still works.


DECO PINK = Darker Skin tones/shading

I go in with Deco pink above the eyes, under the nose and lip, and anywhere else I think a shadow will naturally lie. Studying B&W photos is a good way to learn where shadows typically fall.



I go over some of the DECO PINK areas with LIGHT CERULEAN BLUE to make them deeper shadows. The blue goes well over the pink. Though as you experiement you'll find that as you branch out with colors this blue might not work. Especially if you use different markers (With the copic colors I use instead of bluish purple it comes out sickly green, Ugh!) But for our purposes here, it works fine.



I just added a little BLUSH PINK to the lips as a base. In case you haven't picked up on it, I'm working lighter to darker colors. The base for the hair is CANARY YELLOW, again keeping white the areas I want to shine. Also I just dabbed a little blue in her eyes.


YELLOW OCHRE = Medium shadows in hair
LIGHT CERULEAN BLUE = Shadows on costume
POPPY RED = upper lip

I've gone in with YELLOW OCHRE to the hair where it needs to be darker than the base coat. POPPY RED adds both a little more vibrant color and shadow to the upper lip, and I've simply added the LIGHT CERULEAN BLUE where I want shadows on the already white costume. I suppose you could use a gray on the costume, but it would seem duller to me. That's up to you.


BURNT OCHRE = darkest shadows in hair
YELLOW ORANGE = addition color on hair

Here I've just simply added the BURNT OCHRE to the hair where the shadows should lie darkest.

I added a little dab of BLUSH PINK around the edge of the white space I left at the tip of her nose. Then I blended the edges of it OUTWARD with LIGHT PEACH. (don't blend inward and remove the white shiny part you left at the beginning.)

I also added YELLOW ORANGE to the hair here and there where it would add just a little extra color. Generally in the direction of the oncoming light. (This scan makes it a little hard to see because I haven't adjusted the colors any in photoshop.) If you want to skip doing something like that, you can. Or you can use a different color. It's up to you.


GRASS GREEN = background
PENS AGAIN! = thicken up the lineart.

Since Emma here is very warm (in terms of color value, not personality) I just threw a cooler color behind her to make her pop out more. In this case GRASS GREEN. But any cool color would work I guess.

At this point, with the coloring done (whee!) I go over the line art again to thicken it up, giving different line weights to add some life. Also, sometimes you need to make the lines darker if the markers lightened them up. (Which happens, especially with the Microns and the Staedlers.) I also thickened up her eye lashes.

TAADAAA! There it is. A nice shiny new drawing ready for you to sell and make millions. (remember me when you're famous!)
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This is a tutorial I drew up to help someone who had some questions for me regarding making custom Monster High dolls. Sorry for the fairly poor-quality photos. I don't have a proper digital camera right now and they were snapped on my cell phone, but big details aren't needed for this.

If you're a kid, please obtain permission from your parents before you start customizing a doll. I won't be held responsible if anyone gets in trouble with their folks.

Also, I'm completely freaking serious about the acetone. Don't play with that stuff. Wear gloves.

IMPORTANT ADDITION: *KPenDragon's passed on the information to me that predictably so the acetone is not only damaging to the BODIES of the dolls but it will eat through it the plastic. So unless you want a holey doll for your custom, if you need to remove body markings, like on a Frankie doll, sand it down and don't use a chemical to remove it.

Upcoming tutorials, featuring PROPER photos (yay camera shopping) will cover rehairing a doll, full body painting, body dying, and resculpting. Thanks for looking! I hope I've helped.

The needle-nosed pliers I use are specifically round tipped jewelry pliers made by Beadalon. They're a bit pricier than other brands but the quality shows.
- Beadalon - I use these, specifically, part Part# 201E-003. I bought mine at A.C. Moore where they were selling for $12.

* Monster High Body Preparation (you are here)
* Monster High dolls: wigs

* Novi Stars Body Preparation
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Scratchy from the Simpsons in Cubee form!!

Just click on the download link to download the pattern. Then cut out the shapes and construct (no tape or glue needed!!).
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