The last in a 3-part set of tutorials by . I hope that anyone who reads this learns in some way Do take it with a pinch of salt of course! I try not to write my tutorials with generic guidelines and measurements - You can find those easily on line. All these tutorials I do describe my own trial & errors, my own achievements and mistakes (especially since this is kinda on...well...girls). All the little things I picked up as I walked the path of the artist (*___*)
NOTE ON HAIR Attach hair to head, tie it in, use whatever style of yarn you like. Find a hair cut you like, play around and have fun. For curly hair, unravel yarn. Use thread for fine hair (will take a lot!), etc. Go Wild!
I would LOVE to see anything made with my patterns!
EDIT: PATTERN FIX: After row 11 to row 12 there is a miscalculation between stitches and the number indicated. Row twelve should read:
SC, SC-DC Around. In Row 13 Decrease one stitch in the back of the mermaid to right the numbers until the pattern can be re-written with correction.
1. Credit me, link back to the deviation you use - no matter if you upload it on deviantart or your personal homepage or anywhere else.
1.1 please send me a fullsize, logo-free copy, so that i can use it for my portfolio on and off DA as well (mentioning your name if you wish)
2. You don't need to ask for permission if you want to use my photos but you have to write a comment under the photo you use or send a note with a link to your deviation. Even if you submit it outside dA! I offer stocks for free so you could at least tell me what you do with my stuff (Wink)
3. Don't use my stock photos to create new stock or claim my photos as your own!
4. You may submit prints on dA or redbubble etc - as long as you credit me.
5. Commercial use / Publications Please send a note for the details to KittiraCatinka or KittyTheCat@outlook.com and don’t forget that, even if you publish a book or anything else i want to be credited. Please understand that, if you want to sell your works for bookcovers or CD-Artworks I would like to get a copy of the book / CD / magazine / flyer etc, also i want to get Paid... it has to be fair if youre making Money with my face , i should at least get something out of it ,too
6. If you use my photos and I like them it might happen that I upload them on my portfolio. Of course I will give credits to your gallery!
Whelp... here you go! Thought this might be useful for some sculptors out there. I'm using the eyes for a bjd I'm making, but of course this can be adapted to fit other purposes as well.
I'm reaaallly sorry that the quality of the tutorial itself isn't that great... my computer isn't working and I don't want to go downloading programs on my little brother's computer which I borrowed/stole for the time being, so I had to do this all in Paint. Igh. Paint. It kills every could-be-decent picture it touches.
(P.S! If you make eyes using this method, you should link me! I'd be glad to see! )
I really struggled to learn how to color using traditional media. So I hope this might help people scale the learning curve.
For a few years this was my "formula" for doing commissions, and when I have to get something done sketchy and quick, but still want it to look halfway decent, I'll take this approach. In this tutorial I'm using Prismacolor markers.
So we obviously start with lineart.
It's important that you use pens that won't bleed. Faber-Castell Pitt artist pens work great, and they're india ink. So they won't change color over time. I've also used Microns (which tend to bleed easier) and Staedler pens (which are sometimes hard for me to find.)
At this point I just go in with a thin line, not worrying about line weights, because I'm going to go over the lines again at the end. More about that later.
LIGHT PEACH = base skin tone
Decide where your light source is coming from. Here it's coming from the viewer's right. I tend to leave white (i.e. not coloring over) the parts where I know I want it to shine. Nose, chin, maybe a cheek, etc.
My marker here was going a little dry, but it still works.
DECO PINK = Darker Skin tones/shading
I go in with Deco pink above the eyes, under the nose and lip, and anywhere else I think a shadow will naturally lie. Studying B&W photos is a good way to learn where shadows typically fall.
LIGHT CERULEAN BLUE = shadows
I go over some of the DECO PINK areas with LIGHT CERULEAN BLUE to make them deeper shadows. The blue goes well over the pink. Though as you experiement you'll find that as you branch out with colors this blue might not work. Especially if you use different markers (With the copic colors I use instead of bluish purple it comes out sickly green, Ugh!) But for our purposes here, it works fine.
I just added a little BLUSH PINK to the lips as a base. In case you haven't picked up on it, I'm working lighter to darker colors. The base for the hair is CANARY YELLOW, again keeping white the areas I want to shine. Also I just dabbed a little blue in her eyes.
YELLOW OCHRE = Medium shadows in hair LIGHT CERULEAN BLUE = Shadows on costume POPPY RED = upper lip
I've gone in with YELLOW OCHRE to the hair where it needs to be darker than the base coat. POPPY RED adds both a little more vibrant color and shadow to the upper lip, and I've simply added the LIGHT CERULEAN BLUE where I want shadows on the already white costume. I suppose you could use a gray on the costume, but it would seem duller to me. That's up to you.
BURNT OCHRE = darkest shadows in hair YELLOW ORANGE = addition color on hair BLUSH PINK (BLENDED WITH LIGHT PEACH) = tip of nose
Here I've just simply added the BURNT OCHRE to the hair where the shadows should lie darkest.
I added a little dab of BLUSH PINK around the edge of the white space I left at the tip of her nose. Then I blended the edges of it OUTWARD with LIGHT PEACH. (don't blend inward and remove the white shiny part you left at the beginning.)
I also added YELLOW ORANGE to the hair here and there where it would add just a little extra color. Generally in the direction of the oncoming light. (This scan makes it a little hard to see because I haven't adjusted the colors any in photoshop.) If you want to skip doing something like that, you can. Or you can use a different color. It's up to you.
GRASS GREEN = background PENS AGAIN! = thicken up the lineart.
Since Emma here is very warm (in terms of color value, not personality) I just threw a cooler color behind her to make her pop out more. In this case GRASS GREEN. But any cool color would work I guess.
At this point, with the coloring done (whee!) I go over the line art again to thicken it up, giving different line weights to add some life. Also, sometimes you need to make the lines darker if the markers lightened them up. (Which happens, especially with the Microns and the Staedlers.) I also thickened up her eye lashes.
TAADAAA! There it is. A nice shiny new drawing ready for you to sell and make millions. (remember me when you're famous!)