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"Cosplay Dovahkiin Daedric full armor from Skyrim"
with similar deviations.
Well it's about time! I was unfolding the armor as I went so now that I've almost got everything built I thought I'd post a visual representation of a lot of different files that I've unfolded on my way to making a full set of Daedric armor.
My first Daedric Helmet was my first attempt at using Pepakura Designer, and while I made it accomplish what I needed it to do I decided to unfold it again. I'm pretty proud of it, especially since it's an obvious indication of how much I've learned.
AND FIGURED OUT THE SCALE, TOO! The default size of this template is best suited to cosplayers who are 5ft 7in tall. However, though, I've also added a 'key' to help accurately re-size it yourself if you need to.
Thrown together via request. So far only the helmet is properly organized on the print layout, but the entire suit of armor IS there. You'll just have to arrange everything yourself if you want the rest of it before I can get around to polishing this off all spiffy. Ven's armor was actually 6th down my 'To-Papercraft' list, but whatever. Quick and half-hat often actually IS better than a-year-later-and-perfect.
This is Ventus' gameplay model from "Kingdom Hearts: Birth By Sleep". Default size is 6ft 3in (190cm) tall from shoe bottoms to horn tips. I have not yet calculated what that translates to in terms of wearer-height, but I'm sure you'll manage.
INTERESTED IN TURNING YOUR PAPERCRAFT ARMORS INTO MIND-BLOWING-LY REALISTIC COSPLAYS? Click here, if thou braveth to slip from the edge of thine chair: youtu.be/a7T8rypEqs8
Heya I got a complete set of Terra's armor from kingdom hearts birth by sleep pep files here.... it was a real pain getting this all done... but hey its done and its here!!! give my buddy Azurial from the site therpf some thanks!.. without Azurial's assistance this would have taken a whole lot longer then it did... so give Azurial some props!... these files contain more than 1 file for several parts such as helm, torso, and legs.... it does NOT have "left and right" because you can simply click "mirror invertion (both 3D and 2D)" to get the other side..... so good luck and have fun with makeing it... I'll post my own progress soon.... also it contains "Ends Of The Earth" keyblade made by EuTytoAlba [link] HERES TO YOU EuTytoAlba! FOR DOING A EXCELENT JOB ON THE KEYBLADE!!!!! Next up Aqua & Ventus!!!
APOLOGIES, but I can't afford to "unlock" Pepakura Designer on my computer at this time. So, that means I cannot save .pdo files, at least for the time being. I figured a PDF would be better than nothing. First and foremost I made this for myself, as much as I do enjoy sharing, and the inconvenience doesn't actually bother me that much.
THIS WAS MADE FROM A MODEL RIPPED FROM KINGDOM HEARTS II FINAL MIX. I have the Birth By Sleep model, but the KHII version just looked more sleek, badmuffin, and mysterious. I think the "ears" are a tad longer. In all, I just liked it better. The difference could in fact just be my imagination. At the end of the day, this is still right out of the games! (The Japan-only editions, mind you.)
0. What in the unhealthy name of deep fried french fries?!!!! Wha happen to the texture?!! Sorry, it seems to have become cell-shaded in the process of uploading the PDF to DeviantArt. IT'S DEVIANTART'S FAULT! I'll try again, but if it still doesn't work, you'll just have be happy with the best I can do.
1. This is not to scale, but it is large, so take some measurements to estimate proportionately weather it will be too small or too big for you.
2. None of the glue tabs are labeled yet. *Jaws music plays*
3. The polygon faces on the .obj file were inside out, so if you know which dotted lines mean "valley fold" and "mountain fold"-----I actually don't-----then just imagine they mean the other way around.
In all.....as a total undeniable Noobus ignoramus on the subject of 3D modeling.......you happen to be looking at the result of nearly a week of solid sleepless study and tinkering with code that might as well be in written Iclandinc for all I know. Would have gone much faster and less painfully if any of the experts I write to for help ever write back. Ever.
But I would not be denied. Just lucky for me that my uncle, who happened to stop in the other day to fix our AC, happened to know his way around .mdx -> .obj file conversion. Yes, we here in AZ are still running our AC at this time of year. To us, October means that it's finally not hot outside after 10pm.
And, sorry, but I still can't spare the $40 to get the ability to save .pdo files unlocked by the Pepakura peeps. It's on my Christmas wishlist though.
I've compiled the progress photos I took of our Skylanders costume builds in case it might be useful. I know I find them useful myself! This one is of Chop Chop's main body build; the head build is in a separate post because of size. Sorry for the low quality photos - I only had time to take crappy phone pics as I was speed-building!
Chop Chop doesn't have a lot of pieces, probably because he's a walking skeleton, so overall it wasn't an overly complex build for the armour pieces. This is my first time working with EVA foam so it took a bit of trial and error, so hopefully you can learn from my mistakes! The chest armour is made entirely from EVA foam, and consists of the front piece, back piece and the arm straps. Heat forming is relatively easy and you can keep re-heating to fix/adjust as needed. It does have a tendency to try to return to it's original state, so a key is to let it cool fully, and over-compensate for high-flex areas, such as the shoulder straps. It's very easy to sand with a dremel, just be sure to wear a mask and goggles (seriously, wear a mask. I didn't at first and had a blood nose for a couple of days. That shit is full of chemicals, and the foam dust is nasty). The sides of the chest armour attach with velcro, though I've found it has a tendency to come loose throughout the day (we've also had the velcro peel right off the foam. Sanding the foam before gluing makes a world of difference). The shoulder straps are attached to the front and back with large portions of velcro. This is a high tension area so it's important to have a large surface area for contact or the foam may try to spring up. Again, we found it was necessary to sand the foam back before glueing the velcro on. Beneath the straps are two strips of nylon webbing - one for each shoulder - that take the weight of the armour. This way it reduces the tension on the shoulder straps and makes it sit properly.
The gloves - we bought a pair of nylon safety gloves (with the plasti-dipped/nitrile palm surface) from the hardware store. I used craft foam (fun foam) which I cut to shape and glued on with hot glue. This allows for reasonable dexterity.
Shoes and greaves - Matt had a knock-off pair of Crocs (I don't even know why), which provided a good base to build Chop Chop's shoes onto. With EVA foam I cut out a rough shape of the front of the shoe and heat formed it right over the top of the crocs. It did take some trimming and fiddling to get the right size and shape it smoothly around the front, but with a bit of patience and brute strength I got there! These 'shoe covers' were glued with hot-glue onto the shoe. Not seen in the picture is the edging I added along the lower edge, which is just a thin strip of foam. The greaves were made from a Polyethylene foam, which is also a closed-cell foam, but doesn't share the memory properties of EVA foam. Admittedly the greaves were a bitch to pattern and get right, and after the heads were probably the most time consuming parts to make. That's probably also in part to my lack of skill at pattern making :/ Anyway, I made a pattern from craft foam. Chop Chop's greaves are slightly elliptical sagittally, which of course is not a shape the foam wants to maintain, especially with a seam running along the back of the leg. So we had to attach an armature inside the greave which would support the foam in the desired shape. Thank you coat-hanger wire! (also, be careful that there's no wire sticking out or you'll end up with it stuck in your leg). Also not seen in the pics are the details added to the greaves - another strip of foam along the lower edge, and two pieces that sort of mirror that seen on the shoulder straps.
Giant-ass sword - Chop Chop's sword is massive, so it was necessary to provide it with an internal support or it'd be all sad and droopy. To make it as lightweight and sturdy as possible I used an aluminium pipe. I patterned the sword up on butcher's paper, which I covered in masking tape for rigidity - and it also makes it super easy to alter the pattern. The blade was cut from two sheets of EVA foam, and a channel cut down the middle of each sheet with the dremel for the pipe to fit into. The grip was also done in a similar fashion. To make the cross-guard, Matthew cut out several circles from the EVA foam, each circle slightly larger than the last. This he glued together and then covered with craft foam. He cut out a hole through the middle for it to slide over the pipe. The knuckle-guard is cut from two sheets of EVA foam. I then sanded the blade to shape with the dremel and used a hot-knife to create the fuller along the blade.
Not seen is the shield as this was very last minute and we were both delirious from lack of sleep! We used a plastic rubbish-bin lid, which we covered in masking tape. This has two benefits: covers over the ridges some; and provides a good surface to adhere to. I coated the lid with a big sheet of craft foam and glued it to the back of the bin. The detailing was cut from a second sheet of craft foam. Glued on straps of webbing to the back of the lid, and presto, you have a shield. It's not as smooth as we would have liked, but time was against us and it sufficed. Another tip - sand the surface of the plastic before applying glue or things come off...
The foam was sealed with several coats of PVA/water mix (1:1 I think). It was then primed with a plastic primer and then painted with hammered metal paint (for the blue) - this stuff has some flexibility and high gloss which was perfect. The details were painted with an antique gold spray paint, which isn't quite so flexible. We then sprayed a sealer over it all.
I hope that covers the main construction and is useful! Feel free to ask any questions and I'll do my best to answer them