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a tutorial for my piece, [link]
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Gotta catch them all, just for fun :D

Get them here:
Pokéball: [link]
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Yet another awesome model by my friend DaredevilBR [link] that I helped beta-test (kind of).

It is Tetra, the pirate girl from The Legend of Zelda: Wind Walker. She is also very tall - approximately 25cm including the base. And again quite an advance model, not for the light hearted or inexperienced.

The model is not quite complete, as she also had fruit of some sort - something similar to a Hyoi Pear - that I have yet to build. I'll probably get around to doing that later this month.

She is also holding a neat little dagger in her right hand, which unfortunately you can't see very well from this angle.

There were issues with her hands in the original template, but they have since been resolved, so you should be able to get the updated final template soon at:
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Hello all, sorry I haven't posted anything in a while, I've had a buttload of homework lately.  So the point of this deviation is to help out all those plushie makers that need help with making their patterns.
This is the key to pattern making.
If you can't figure out how to wrap your head around a new pattern, find a plushie that looks similar to what you want to make and look at it really hard for a while.  Find all the seam lines and see which corners are where.  It possible find any darts and deconstruct the plushie in your mind, putting the whole though process on paper.  Once you have each part of the pattern on paper in a general idea, REFINE it.
Keep working on that pattern you have until it starts looking like it would fit together.  Remember that a plushie is just an inflatable puzzle.
Then MEASURE the hell out of it.  Get all height, length, perimeter, etc.
Go ahead and start working on it then.  Sometimes it can get frustrating when it doesn't come together like you wanted it to, but all good things take a lot of trial and error. DON'T GIVE UP AND HAVE FUN.
I kinda covered everything up there. The plushie in the corner is supposed to be my arapakasso, Sebastian. Once his butler outfit is done I'll post him up.
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not sure if anyone can understand my notes, but these are my rough sketches and notes i use for working out an elasticated ball jointed armature for posable bird art dolls.
i decided to go with this kind of armature instead of a wire armature to give the wings rigidity where needed, i.e. the bones, but flexibility and realistic movement. the "bones" are made from plastic piping (i use these kind of things [link] they are snap on pipe covers, like a sheet of plastic rolled up, which i can then tighten by curling them up more until they are the right size for whatever i am using them for. however, if you can find solid piping that is the right size and is strong enough, you can use that, or you could make your "bones" like a traditional ball jointed doll).
by including the velcro slot the armature can be removed and given maintenance very easily. the use of fee floating ball joints, i.e. not attached to either pipe on the joint, means that they can also be replaced easily if needed. my balls are made form sculpey firm [link] for durability.
the drawings of the hole shapes are for reverence only and some adjustment is needed when actually making in order for the wings to work how you want them to work.
the holes and semi spheres in the side of the back plate box give rotation to the wing for better realism. the box is also make from sculpey firm, reinfored with foil or wire mesh inside. the fabric pouch inside the body, stitched to the back fabric, holds the box, and therefore the wing armature in place.
the strength of elastic you go for will depend of the size wings you are making, and how tight you make them is a personal choice. very tight and the wings will snap back into a folded position when you pull them open, which you might like on your bird, very loose and the wings will hang fully open.

this is just my method and i am constantly adjusting things to make improvements. i am by no means an expert in traditional ball jointed dolls and the methods i use have been developed after reading numerous tutorials and studying many images.

some of the tutorials i have read and found useful :

*Deskleaves this is the first part, the rest are linked in the description.
~twigling [link] this requires your name and email address and then the download will start. it is completely free and definitely worth it. is is a pdf file. the link will take you off deviantart.
~kagen-no-tsuki this one is on re-stringing but the information is good for initial stringing too.

if you do use this, it would be great to see your results. if you have any questions, feel free to ask them, but remember i am no expert and i might not be able to help.
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Handmade by me!

I made this wreath by using grocery bags. I was trying to think of how I could use all those bags that would otherwise be thrown away. I thought of this :) I really hope you guys like it! I would be more than happy to make a tutorial if anyone is interested. It would be really amazing if a lot of people would start making things like this :meow:!

Now I get to decorate it!
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These were two little glow-in-the-dark charms I had made for Geek Fest. I took the photos to illustrate to a friend how much dust, lint and fluff you can clean off your clay after sculpting and before baking. I know when I started sculpting I grew grey hairs trying to keep lighter colours dust free to the point of hacking at the lil guys where after they wouldn't be nice and smooth.

So after some research and trial and error I think I have a good method for cleaning up lighter colours. The best is that you can sculpt, relatively carefree of the lil fluffy buggers and only worry about them at the end. (Here I'm referring to tiny little strands, not pet hair or such, that should be avoided as far as possible, or removed while sculpting).

To avoid anyone else going grey prematurely, here's my method:

You will need the following:
Rubbing alcohol, or isopropyl alcohol as it can be referred to here in South Africa.
A soft bristle brush - I use a no. 2 round bristle white brush. I prefer the white as it shows if the brush is dirty/discoloured and the fluff culprit. I also prefer a brush to an ear bud as it is much softer and won't affect the sculpt even if you push a little too hard.
Completed sculpture - it's important that your sculpture is as complete as possible before baking, the alcohol doesn't harm the clay, but it does prevent any additional clay from adhering to it. If you have made a mistake and wish to sculpt, just wait for the alcohol to evaporate completely and your clay is back to normal.

My method:
• Pour a tiny bit of alcohol into a clean container, make sure you close the lid after pouring as it can evaporate quite easily.
• Dip the brush in the alcohol, press it against the side of the container to remove excess.
• Hold the sculpture lightly, if it can stand on its own, set it on your clean working surface.
• Brush the area with fluff lightly at first. Once the area is lightly covered, brush in tiny circles over the fluff. You should see it start to come loose. If the brush at this point starts to make lines or streaks in the clay you need to add more alcohol. Keep brushing, changing direction over the fluff until it pulls loose. It usually then attaches to the brush.
• Clean your brush after every fluff it cleans up. It can be tedious, but it's really worth it! :)
• Finally make sure that once you're done, the alcohol is completely evaporated before baking.

I've found this method usually helps clean up my work to a point that I can work in yellow, white and pastels without stress while sculpting, I used to get very annoyed with any and all light colours.

A final tip, if you are working with a combination of glittery or shimmery clay and standard clay, be sure to clean up the standard one before the shimmery one, as the shimmer can transfer through the alcohol on the brush.

Hope this has helped in some way :D

Side note: Apologies for my absence, I'm very busy with the final stretch of my degree so I'm manically busy until next week when assignment submissions and design reviews are done for the month. After which I hope to make a (valiant) return as I am going to be at a Medieval themed market end October for which I am planning a few dragon knights! Hehe, can't wait to get back to my clay.

For more regular updates on where to buy critters from Litefoot's Little Bestiary find me on :facebook: at…
For work in progress and more regular posts visit the bestiary on Tumblr at litefootslittlebestiary.tumblr…

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Paperpokés has had Bulbasaur and Squirtle for a while now, so finally, here is the last of the Beginner Trainer's Three - Charmander!

This one is reasonably moderate in difficulty to build, there are a couple of tricky parts that could cause people to reprint sections, but the end result is totally worth it!

Once again, this one has a Aussie 5¢ piece glued onto the inside of it's belly for stability, because ... well, have you seen that tail?! Thanks to Brandon for the modeling.

To be released shortly. Keep checking out Paperpokés [link] every Monday for brand new releases.
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Long time no upload. >_<

So I know I said I'd turn this guy into a tutorial, but when I looked through the pieces I was like, "Ugh, I did that?" and I didn't want all those pictures in a tutorial, haha.

And the photos I took kind of sucked anyway, they were bad for making tutorials.

Anyway, so this is a walk through. How I made it is the same as I make any other sculpture, just different shapes, so my other tutorials like ([link]) show how my technique for sculpting stuff.

So I have holidays for the next two weeks, I hope I can upload some actual deviations. :D
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Continuation of Part 1 [link] . This one focuses on human faces for plushies; a bit more detail-oriented but still a lot of fun! I hope this helps you future plushie makers out!
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