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you maybe allready know this part

i know it's "not the original beam axe what's hidden behind the shield"
i have to say
i don't give a shit :D
all the work put into this, from the resize, redesign and recolor was just worth :dance:
but it's not only an axe, with a little special it can be morphed to a spear from 50cm to 65cm

the other thing, the original design is just really cool and totally open

when you print the pages a few times, you can build two weapons or on one side two big blades and on the other two small and waht not, it's up to the builder :meow:

but anyway
now to the morphing system
through the resize i had a little problem
the original staff is one page tall and i had to think about what to do
so i decided to cut that piece into three different and build it
like an antenna

here you can see my building process
first i build the three pipes (these are the hardest parts by the way ;) )
and cut some long paper stripes
then i wrapped one stripe arround at one side first until it fit good into the bigger pipe
you have to test it out how much you need
cut a stripe with the same lenght but don't attach it to the other side

then do the same but at the inside of one of the bigger pipes

now the system should be clear
stick the thin pipe without the attached stripe into the big pipe from the other side until you reach quite the end

then through the second bigger pipe at the side with the attached stripe at the inside

push this also quite to the end
now add the stripe at the thin pipe
and done ;P
sound complicated i know but it's really easy :)

then add the two red pieces to the staff and the top part
i allready combined them but it's up to you :)

and step by step the final axe is done :)

about the sheets:
because this time it's a recolored version
the sheets are coming as pdf
just click download at the top :)

the original design belongs still to playboy
redesigned and recolored by me


IMPORTANT:
THIS MODEL IS FREE AND SHOULD IT BE
SO LET IT BE!

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the first part of the big Sinanju model from paper-replika.com
and damn, i expect a lot but not that it will take so ling to build that thing

not because of the size, but i had a few problems with the pieces
frankly, they are not very good designed
maybe, i can only speak on my own because when i design and unfold the pieces i have an other way to do this ^^;

anyway, after i finished the shield i finally notice how tall this model will be and i can't wait to see it :)
but it will be a long way
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since i made the desicion to rebuild the whole Sinanju model from paper-replika
i thought also about to build some weapons
the problem, even there are exist some in an other Sinanju version from playboy, there is no instruction how to combine all the pieces

well, actually it wasn't really hard, the hardest part was to build them, specially from the axe
but i think the result speaks on it's own, and i hope that these picture help that others can build this cool things too :)

the next step is to start resize, recolor and rebuild the pieces a bit, that the weapons fit for the big version, some are really ugly designed and very heavy :worry:

i printed the sheets on A4
they are white because the sheets are designed for colored paper
the axe is about 40 cm tall
the beam rifle about 30
the sheets are available here

the beam rifle comes on two pages in an extra pdf
you can find the axe at the pages 2,21 and 36
the pieces are declared as A_xx

have fun :)
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"Damarus hails from the Mobeth tribe of the Gen Mo'Kai where he's the son of their leader Gik Ma.
Being the leader's son might mean a life of pampering for some, but Damarus won't have any of that and he's dedicated his life to winning the tournament.
Quick and agile, this guy is more about making the finesse kill rather than overkill with heavy weapons. Still, a kill is a kill."


ok, in the first version i wrote i'm proud and happy, well that was not really true.

after quite a month of building NOW i'm proud and happy to bring you this one ^^;
and i'm glad that i can share it with you

Model specifications:
pieces: about 370 pieces
height: about 40 cm (printed on A3)
pages: 19

File specifications:
file size: 61 MB
the download file contains three different pdo's
-one without texture and the folding lines
-one with texture and no folding line (for experts ;) )
-and one with the texture and the folding lines

a more ore less detailed instruction
and a package with 14 different textures

the package also includes the sheets for the lightning gun (you can see it on the picture)

i don't added the pdf files, because every file would be 20MB big, so you need the Pepakura Viewer which you can download here

the pdo files are not protected so if you have the Designer, you can still change the size of the model

to download just click the download button :P

....

anything else?
ah right, i promised you something
why this model is so important for me?

well, let me tell you
let's go a little bit back in time
since the first Unreal was released, i'm a big fan of this series
the story was stunning and something complete different to the other stuff out in this time.
Unreal Tournament, the great competitor to the quake series, was the next step.

in 2002, UT2003 was released and it was overwhelming.
the model design was mouthstunning and never seen before. But there was one race that stood out against the others.
The Gen Mo'Kai
and i swear to you, i never played other chars :D

hm.. i currently noticed, that ut2004 is wrong
but not really, i used the 2004 model
so what else

in 2003 a news drove through the scene
that one guy, you may know him as "radioactiveclown" build some action figures from ut2003

you will find some images here in the DA gallery

you can imagine, as a fan this is "that" thing
but without any creditcard ore other opportunities
no chance
but I've never given up


quite month ago, i registered myself in the nintendo/pokemon papercraft forums and found a thread about converting models from 3d games.
i ask if it would be possible to get one out of the unreal engine
and they told me "yes, but they don't know how"
well, i took the chance and you can see the result ^^;

now, after seven years of waiting, my own Damarus figure stand beside me on my desk and is watching over me :P
even if it's only paper, it's worth more than it could a purchased ever be :)


other shots:



-edit-
send me a picture ore the link of your build version
and i feature it here :)
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here we go
finally done :icontardboogieplz: :iconvictorydanceplz: :icondweebdanceplz:

man, this thing took just freaking long :faint:
when i imagine that the plan was, to build this in my three weeks vacation (last year :D ) and meanwhile a half year is gone since i started the boosterpack :D

ok, i had a few breaks, one with Renamon and a few others
so the pure building time was about two months
but also a long time :aww:

i have to say that i don't have any clue about Gundam Wing/00/Zero ore whatever which series is called
i know about the Gundams and love the mecha design (specially this one because of the wings) but never saw one part so don't bother about the name ;)


ah, big mechas with wings
i just love this shit :la:


even the sheets where not the best (they are very pixelized)
i'm totally pleased with the result
but during the building and right now i can say, it's definitely not a starter model
i had to modify a lot of stuff and quite every blue and grey edge is recolored to hide the folding lines
but all over is was pure fun :meow:
and...
surely not my last Gundam model ;)
the next one is allready planned

what's left to say
ah right :)
you can download the sheets here
also i wanna refer you to my building process gallery
just if you may stuck ;)

-other shots-


and a little special one here ;)
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Just working with M14-style controls.

I left it as a fairly vague sketch when I realized there wasn't much of a purpose behind it.

The tapering on top of the handguard lends a strange appearance to the whole thing.
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The template for this is a available here:
[link]

Other images:
[link]
[link]

I built Clu's light cycle on cardstock. The fold lines were covered over with Crayola washable markers which makes an *enormous* difference in the quality of the end result.

This papercraft has the worst instructions ever. If you decide to do this one:
* Don't make this your first one. Start with the recognizer.
* You need a utility knife for the inside cuts. I had success with Elmer's glue, a paper towel, and many toothpicks. I recommend using the toothpicks to spread the glue evenly, and to wipe off places where it spooges. A glue stick will work but they are very large and imprecise.
* Have a gray and a black marker handy. A Sharpie doesn't have the right sheen. Use this to go over the dotted-lines when you are done.
* Keep this final picture handy while building. During assembly the parts are abstract.
* There's lots of parts that just really don't fit. You have to mush and bend them together. This one takes a lot of time. I probably spent 10 hours on it all together, and I had to get my wife's perspective at times to see other ways something might fit.

Changes to the instructions:
* Mark which wheel is front -vs- back and don't forget mix them up.
* If possible, use paper that is black on the back. Or run it through your printer again and print black on the other side. There are places where the white paper shows and this will minimize the amount of marker you need to use to cover it up.
* Build both wheels then glue them to the chassis. I recommend doing this before cutting/folding the other parts. You could even stop at that point if you just like the cycle alone.

Wheels:
* Those thin white lines on the wheels are the slits for the driver's arms and legs that are referenced in step 8. Cut them with a utility knife before gluing anything. It is tough to do later on.
* Don't fold the A-I tabs around the wheels, or if you do, don't fold them in very much. You need them to be rigid so that they push against the other darker colored tabs that you glue them to.
* The designers don't know alphabetical order. *facepalm* Ignore that and just go around the wheel from A to I. This is where I started to lose confidence in this design...
* It is tough to see where exactly to attach the wheels to the chassis and what orientation to use. Line it up before gluing. The light cycle should sit level when the wheels are attached.
- The wheel has 10 sections. I'll call the bottom "section 1" and they count clockwise from there up to section 10.
- Orient them: the bottom of the wheel has a circle on it, made from black and blue stripes.
- Start glugin the the back wheel at section 4.
- For the front wheel, the dots are on section 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10. So the bottom has no dot.
- Glue the front wheel at section 8

Undercarriage piece:
* This piece is a very convoluded way to hide the ugliness between the front wheel and the chassis. Unfortunately, it covers lots of nice detail and is really hard to line-up. Maybe a better way is to not put this on at all.
* Line this up so that it covers the dots on the wheels. Get it all lined up before gluing anything.

Clu's back:
* Put the feet into the slits and don't glue anything yet. I glued the center "B" tab only, and I did it as the very very last thing once everything else was together. Otherwise this piece just keeps getting in the way, especially when gluing the helmet.
* Clu really doesn't have much of a neck...

Arms:
* First, fold these in half and glue them together.
* Next, insert the gray handles into the slits in the wheels. Shove them most of the way in.
* Then glue them onto the cycle, near what I call the front windshield. The instructions call this Clu's shoulder, but you are really gluing it to the chassis not the driver. You can fold the tab to glue it onto the front, or the side. I recommend the side so that it does not interfere with the helmet. Maybe a better way would be to cut a slit and put it into there so it doesn't cover the detail on the side.

Fin:
* The fin probably isn't worth doing.
* Cut out the white area with a utility knife.
* The order of instructions on step 11 is wrong. First fold over the dotted line to make the two "wings" THEN fold over the yellow line. Don't glue it yet. Done properly, it will look like airplane wings with a bottom piece. Make sure you fold the tabs out before you glue it together.
* I cut-off the lighter colored tabs because they didn't line-up with Clu's back. Just glue the bottom part to the wheel.
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The mp5 I was working on a year or so back.

Finally picked the texture back up.

All the info's on the pic, but here it is anyway:

12k~ tris for gun + all accessories
2048x2048 texture for gun + all accessories

Model: Maya 2012
Bake: Maya 2012
Texture: dDo (masks & generic grunge), Knald (ao from normal map), Handplane (object space normal -> tangent space conversion), Photoshop (lots of little things)
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Tank, Cruiser, Mk VIII, Cromwell (A27M), and the related Centaur (A27L) tank, were one of the most successful series of cruiser tanks fielded by Britain in the Second World War. The Cromwell tank, named after the English Civil War leader Oliver Cromwell, was the first tank put into service by the British to combine a dual-purpose gun, high speed from the powerful and reliable Meteor engine, and reasonable armour, all in one balanced package. Its design formed the basis of the Comet tank.

A little break from my Me-262 project, a cromwell tank from JSC no. 722, the kit also includes Daimler Dingo Mk.I and Dodge WC-51, as well as optional turret to build A30 Challenger

14 workhours, scale 1/100, length 6.35 cm. The barrel was built with technique from very kind :icon404bot:
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For those of you that don't know, this is the Phurba Dagger, a three-bladed knife and key component to many of the puzzles in the relatively new PS3 game, Uncharted 2: Among Thieves. If you haven't played this or its predecessor, Uncharted: Drake's Fortune, they are both fantastic games (though the latter is a bit watered down in terms of puzzle difficulty...).

The model feels a little small overall; I tried to match it as best I could to screenshots since I couldn't find any actual dimensions, but at least everything looks proportioned pretty closely. The final build comes to ~2" (~5cm) long, ~2" (~5cm) wide, and ~12.5" (~32cm) tall. Took about a day to build; it's really not very complex. The hardest part was trying to keep the blade tip as straight as possible.

I didn't include pieces for a stand though; the one shown I quick threw together and spray-painted, but honestly it'll sit flat on its own, so you really don't need one if you don't feel like making one.





PDF of Pieces

PePaKuRa PDO's




Chloe: Oh, is that an ancient Tibetan ritual dagger in your pocket?
Nathan: Well, maybe I'm just happy to see you.






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Have you built this or one of my other models? Feel free to let me know how hard you thought they were!
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