you maybe allready know this part i know it's "not the original beam axe what's hidden behind the shield" i have to say i don't give a shit all the work put into this, from the resize, redesign and recolor was just worth but it's not only an axe, with a little special it can be morphed to a spear from 50cm to 65cm
the other thing, the original design is just really cool and totally open
when you print the pages a few times, you can build two weapons or on one side two big blades and on the other two small and waht not, it's up to the builder
but anyway now to the morphing system through the resize i had a little problem the original staff is one page tall and i had to think about what to do so i decided to cut that piece into three different and build it like an antenna
here you can see my building process first i build the three pipes (these are the hardest parts by the way ) and cut some long paper stripes then i wrapped one stripe arround at one side first until it fit good into the bigger pipe you have to test it out how much you need cut a stripe with the same lenght but don't attach it to the other side
then do the same but at the inside of one of the bigger pipes
now the system should be clear stick the thin pipe without the attached stripe into the big pipe from the other side until you reach quite the end
then through the second bigger pipe at the side with the attached stripe at the inside
push this also quite to the end now add the stripe at the thin pipe and done sound complicated i know but it's really easy
then add the two red pieces to the staff and the top part i allready combined them but it's up to you
and step by step the final axe is done
about the sheets: because this time it's a recolored version the sheets are coming as pdf just click download at the top
the original design belongs still to playboy redesigned and recolored by me
IMPORTANT: THIS MODEL IS FREE AND SHOULD IT BE SO LET IT BE!
the first part of the big Sinanju model from paper-replika.com and damn, i expect a lot but not that it will take so ling to build that thing
not because of the size, but i had a few problems with the pieces frankly, they are not very good designed maybe, i can only speak on my own because when i design and unfold the pieces i have an other way to do this
anyway, after i finished the shield i finally notice how tall this model will be and i can't wait to see it but it will be a long way
since i made the desicion to rebuild the whole Sinanju model from paper-replika i thought also about to build some weapons the problem, even there are exist some in an other Sinanju version from playboy, there is no instruction how to combine all the pieces
well, actually it wasn't really hard, the hardest part was to build them, specially from the axe but i think the result speaks on it's own, and i hope that these picture help that others can build this cool things too
the next step is to start resize, recolor and rebuild the pieces a bit, that the weapons fit for the big version, some are really ugly designed and very heavy
i printed the sheets on A4 they are white because the sheets are designed for colored paper the axe is about 40 cm tall the beam rifle about 30 the sheets are available here
the beam rifle comes on two pages in an extra pdf you can find the axe at the pages 2,21 and 36 the pieces are declared as A_xx
"Damarus hails from the Mobeth tribe of the Gen Mo'Kai where he's the son of their leader Gik Ma. Being the leader's son might mean a life of pampering for some, but Damarus won't have any of that and he's dedicated his life to winning the tournament. Quick and agile, this guy is more about making the finesse kill rather than overkill with heavy weapons. Still, a kill is a kill."
ok, in the first version i wrote i'm proud and happy, well that was not really true.
after quite a month of building NOW i'm proud and happy to bring you this one and i'm glad that i can share it with you
Model specifications: pieces: about 370 pieces height: about 40 cm (printed on A3) pages: 19
File specifications: file size: 61 MB the download file contains three different pdo's -one without texture and the folding lines -one with texture and no folding line (for experts ) -and one with the texture and the folding lines
a more ore less detailed instruction and a package with 14 different textures
the package also includes the sheets for the lightning gun (you can see it on the picture)
i don't added the pdf files, because every file would be 20MB big, so you need the Pepakura Viewer which you can download here
the pdo files are not protected so if you have the Designer, you can still change the size of the model
to download just click the download button
anything else? ah right, i promised you something why this model is so important for me?
well, let me tell you let's go a little bit back in time since the first Unreal was released, i'm a big fan of this series the story was stunning and something complete different to the other stuff out in this time. Unreal Tournament, the great competitor to the quake series, was the next step.
in 2002, UT2003 was released and it was overwhelming. the model design was mouthstunning and never seen before. But there was one race that stood out against the others. The Gen Mo'Kai and i swear to you, i never played other chars
hm.. i currently noticed, that ut2004 is wrong but not really, i used the 2004 model so what else
in 2003 a news drove through the scene that one guy, you may know him as "radioactiveclown" build some action figures from ut2003
you will find some images here in the DA gallery
you can imagine, as a fan this is "that" thing but without any creditcard ore other opportunities no chance but I've never given up
quite month ago, i registered myself in the nintendo/pokemon papercraft forums and found a thread about converting models from 3d games. i ask if it would be possible to get one out of the unreal engine and they told me "yes, but they don't know how" well, i took the chance and you can see the result
now, after seven years of waiting, my own Damarus figure stand beside me on my desk and is watching over me even if it's only paper, it's worth more than it could a purchased ever be
to download the model click on the download button on the right side you can thank dA for, that i can't write the direct link anymore
-edit- send me a picture ore the link of your build version and i feature it here
man, this thing took just freaking long when i imagine that the plan was, to build this in my three weeks vacation (last year ) and meanwhile a half year is gone since i started the boosterpack
ok, i had a few breaks, one with Renamon and a few others so the pure building time was about two months but also a long time
i have to say that i don't have any clue about Gundam Wing/00/Zero ore whatever which series is called i know about the Gundams and love the mecha design (specially this one because of the wings) but never saw one part so don't bother about the name
ah, big mechas with wings i just love this shit
even the sheets where not the best (they are very pixelized) i'm totally pleased with the result but during the building and right now i can say, it's definitely not a starter model i had to modify a lot of stuff and quite every blue and grey edge is recolored to hide the folding lines but all over is was pure fun and... surely not my last Gundam model the next one is allready planned
I built Clu's light cycle on cardstock. The fold lines were covered over with Crayola washable markers which makes an *enormous* difference in the quality of the end result.
This papercraft has the worst instructions ever. If you decide to do this one: * Don't make this your first one. Start with the recognizer. * You need a utility knife for the inside cuts. I had success with Elmer's glue, a paper towel, and many toothpicks. I recommend using the toothpicks to spread the glue evenly, and to wipe off places where it spooges. A glue stick will work but they are very large and imprecise. * Have a gray and a black marker handy. A Sharpie doesn't have the right sheen. Use this to go over the dotted-lines when you are done. * Keep this final picture handy while building. During assembly the parts are abstract. * There's lots of parts that just really don't fit. You have to mush and bend them together. This one takes a lot of time. I probably spent 10 hours on it all together, and I had to get my wife's perspective at times to see other ways something might fit.
Changes to the instructions: * Mark which wheel is front -vs- back and don't forget mix them up. * If possible, use paper that is black on the back. Or run it through your printer again and print black on the other side. There are places where the white paper shows and this will minimize the amount of marker you need to use to cover it up. * Build both wheels then glue them to the chassis. I recommend doing this before cutting/folding the other parts. You could even stop at that point if you just like the cycle alone.
Wheels: * Those thin white lines on the wheels are the slits for the driver's arms and legs that are referenced in step 8. Cut them with a utility knife before gluing anything. It is tough to do later on. * Don't fold the A-I tabs around the wheels, or if you do, don't fold them in very much. You need them to be rigid so that they push against the other darker colored tabs that you glue them to. * The designers don't know alphabetical order. *facepalm* Ignore that and just go around the wheel from A to I. This is where I started to lose confidence in this design... * It is tough to see where exactly to attach the wheels to the chassis and what orientation to use. Line it up before gluing. The light cycle should sit level when the wheels are attached. - The wheel has 10 sections. I'll call the bottom "section 1" and they count clockwise from there up to section 10. - Orient them: the bottom of the wheel has a circle on it, made from black and blue stripes. - Start glugin the the back wheel at section 4. - For the front wheel, the dots are on section 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10. So the bottom has no dot. - Glue the front wheel at section 8
Undercarriage piece: * This piece is a very convoluded way to hide the ugliness between the front wheel and the chassis. Unfortunately, it covers lots of nice detail and is really hard to line-up. Maybe a better way is to not put this on at all. * Line this up so that it covers the dots on the wheels. Get it all lined up before gluing anything.
Clu's back: * Put the feet into the slits and don't glue anything yet. I glued the center "B" tab only, and I did it as the very very last thing once everything else was together. Otherwise this piece just keeps getting in the way, especially when gluing the helmet. * Clu really doesn't have much of a neck...
Arms: * First, fold these in half and glue them together. * Next, insert the gray handles into the slits in the wheels. Shove them most of the way in. * Then glue them onto the cycle, near what I call the front windshield. The instructions call this Clu's shoulder, but you are really gluing it to the chassis not the driver. You can fold the tab to glue it onto the front, or the side. I recommend the side so that it does not interfere with the helmet. Maybe a better way would be to cut a slit and put it into there so it doesn't cover the detail on the side.
Fin: * The fin probably isn't worth doing. * Cut out the white area with a utility knife. * The order of instructions on step 11 is wrong. First fold over the dotted line to make the two "wings" THEN fold over the yellow line. Don't glue it yet. Done properly, it will look like airplane wings with a bottom piece. Make sure you fold the tabs out before you glue it together. * I cut-off the lighter colored tabs because they didn't line-up with Clu's back. Just glue the bottom part to the wheel.
As of 2013, the V2 iteration of this model is available, replacing the handmade patterns with digital ones and moving the breech component from the frame to the slide. It's available in black and stainless colors.
Tank, Cruiser, Mk VIII, Cromwell (A27M), and the related Centaur (A27L) tank, were one of the most successful series of cruiser tanks fielded by Britain in the Second World War. The Cromwell tank, named after the English Civil War leader Oliver Cromwell, was the first tank put into service by the British to combine a dual-purpose gun, high speed from the powerful and reliable Meteor engine, and reasonable armour, all in one balanced package. Its design formed the basis of the Comet tank.
A little break from my Me-262 project, a cromwell tank from JSC no. 722, the kit also includes Daimler Dingo Mk.I and Dodge WC-51, as well as optional turret to build A30 Challenger
14 workhours, scale 1/100, length 6.35 cm. The barrel was built with technique from very kind
"From hell's heart, I stab at thee. For hate's sake, I spit my last breath at thee." that pretty much how i felt building this thing. out of all the papercraft i have built, this one gave me the most trouble. the biggest problem was me. i am a perfectionist and well in the end its paper and it cant be perfect. but there was a few tricks that i learned to help me. the key was not following directions,taking a step back and and trying it my way. i wont bore you with the details but it included cutting off tabs and adding some.if you attempt this and want to know what i did ill send you some notes. man once i got that saucer section together, it was clear sailing.this one might go to a friend because i think i can now do one much better. also note, that is a stand that came with the kit. i threw it together in like 2 mins. if the weathers good ill make it a wall mount. KHAAANNNN... KHAAANNNN!
head over to [link] for this and other cool papercraft projects.