A request that fortunately turned out not to have any of those messy problems which keyblades tend to....
Specifically, I got this from a high-resolution (cutscene) model of Axel ripped out of Kingdom Hearts II: Final Mix.
As for how to properly size this papercraft.... Compared to the model of Axel that it was a part of, when you hold this weapon in the center, the tips of the longest spikes should come up even with your elbow. Hold a yardstick or meterstick against your forearm if precision really matters to you and you want to be 100% sure before you print it out.
(I really need to do a drawing of myself tucking motivation under my arm like a football and running for my life........that describes how I work only too well.)
I built Clu's light cycle on cardstock. The fold lines were covered over with Crayola washable markers which makes an *enormous* difference in the quality of the end result.
This papercraft has the worst instructions ever. If you decide to do this one: * Don't make this your first one. Start with the recognizer. * You need a utility knife for the inside cuts. I had success with Elmer's glue, a paper towel, and many toothpicks. I recommend using the toothpicks to spread the glue evenly, and to wipe off places where it spooges. A glue stick will work but they are very large and imprecise. * Have a gray and a black marker handy. A Sharpie doesn't have the right sheen. Use this to go over the dotted-lines when you are done. * Keep this final picture handy while building. During assembly the parts are abstract. * There's lots of parts that just really don't fit. You have to mush and bend them together. This one takes a lot of time. I probably spent 10 hours on it all together, and I had to get my wife's perspective at times to see other ways something might fit.
Changes to the instructions: * Mark which wheel is front -vs- back and don't forget mix them up. * If possible, use paper that is black on the back. Or run it through your printer again and print black on the other side. There are places where the white paper shows and this will minimize the amount of marker you need to use to cover it up. * Build both wheels then glue them to the chassis. I recommend doing this before cutting/folding the other parts. You could even stop at that point if you just like the cycle alone.
Wheels: * Those thin white lines on the wheels are the slits for the driver's arms and legs that are referenced in step 8. Cut them with a utility knife before gluing anything. It is tough to do later on. * Don't fold the A-I tabs around the wheels, or if you do, don't fold them in very much. You need them to be rigid so that they push against the other darker colored tabs that you glue them to. * The designers don't know alphabetical order. *facepalm* Ignore that and just go around the wheel from A to I. This is where I started to lose confidence in this design... * It is tough to see where exactly to attach the wheels to the chassis and what orientation to use. Line it up before gluing. The light cycle should sit level when the wheels are attached. - The wheel has 10 sections. I'll call the bottom "section 1" and they count clockwise from there up to section 10. - Orient them: the bottom of the wheel has a circle on it, made from black and blue stripes. - Start glugin the the back wheel at section 4. - For the front wheel, the dots are on section 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10. So the bottom has no dot. - Glue the front wheel at section 8
Undercarriage piece: * This piece is a very convoluded way to hide the ugliness between the front wheel and the chassis. Unfortunately, it covers lots of nice detail and is really hard to line-up. Maybe a better way is to not put this on at all. * Line this up so that it covers the dots on the wheels. Get it all lined up before gluing anything.
Clu's back: * Put the feet into the slits and don't glue anything yet. I glued the center "B" tab only, and I did it as the very very last thing once everything else was together. Otherwise this piece just keeps getting in the way, especially when gluing the helmet. * Clu really doesn't have much of a neck...
Arms: * First, fold these in half and glue them together. * Next, insert the gray handles into the slits in the wheels. Shove them most of the way in. * Then glue them onto the cycle, near what I call the front windshield. The instructions call this Clu's shoulder, but you are really gluing it to the chassis not the driver. You can fold the tab to glue it onto the front, or the side. I recommend the side so that it does not interfere with the helmet. Maybe a better way would be to cut a slit and put it into there so it doesn't cover the detail on the side.
Fin: * The fin probably isn't worth doing. * Cut out the white area with a utility knife. * The order of instructions on step 11 is wrong. First fold over the dotted line to make the two "wings" THEN fold over the yellow line. Don't glue it yet. Done properly, it will look like airplane wings with a bottom piece. Make sure you fold the tabs out before you glue it together. * I cut-off the lighter colored tabs because they didn't line-up with Clu's back. Just glue the bottom part to the wheel.
"From hell's heart, I stab at thee. For hate's sake, I spit my last breath at thee." that pretty much how i felt building this thing. out of all the papercraft i have built, this one gave me the most trouble. the biggest problem was me. i am a perfectionist and well in the end its paper and it cant be perfect. but there was a few tricks that i learned to help me. the key was not following directions,taking a step back and and trying it my way. i wont bore you with the details but it included cutting off tabs and adding some.if you attempt this and want to know what i did ill send you some notes. man once i got that saucer section together, it was clear sailing.this one might go to a friend because i think i can now do one much better. also note, that is a stand that came with the kit. i threw it together in like 2 mins. if the weathers good ill make it a wall mount. KHAAANNNN... KHAAANNNN!
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