This is/was my first build ever. I feel like it turned out amazing! Let me know if you like it. After the build I figured a few things out and was able to work out a bunch of bugs in my system. From start to finish, including template's, it took me 11 days to complete.
Had my roommate help me take a photo since the mirror self shots weren't working out. Thanks Melissa!
Reworked both shoulders and added some black details. I attached the inner and outer shoulders since having them separate didn't limit my range of motion any less. Plus I wanted the outer shoulder to maintain the correct distance away from the inner piece.
Started experimenting with Plexiglas for the visor. It is not my first choice and I'm not a fan of how brittle it is. But it heat forms well and I have no other plastic that is 17" wide. I'll take suggestions
Credits photographer: me Thane - Erik Wallkingford ()
Comment: From Mass Effect 2
"Lord of Hunters. Grant that my hands be steady, my aim be true, and my feet swift. And should the worst come to pass, grant me forgiveness."
*** Info on cosplay:
The mask was done with a plaster head cast of the cosplayer. The positive mold of the mask was sculpted in clay by Erik Wallkingford and Kai Norman, then a negative plaster mold was taken. Liquid latex was then painted into the relief mold to form the wearable latex mask, which is held on by a zipper affixed to the back.
The mask was painted by Eric Brooks AKA "Aldarionn" using latex paint (The stuff comes in sample bottles at Home Depot for a relatively inexpensive price and once primed the paint holds up extremely well under wear and tear.). I used mostly drybrushing techniques and thinned the paint considerably before application, including the primer. In hindsight I should have gotten a spray primer because the liquid stuff I painted on by hand took several coats, and much of the time spent painting the mask was priming it.
The eyes are a pair of lenses taken from cheap sunglasses and cut to shape. Excess latex was painted around the lenses to hold them in place, and they are removable.
The jacket was done by someone whom I do not know, and either Erik or Kai could probably credit them. I do know that it took quite some time to complete and was not ready until the day before Anime Expo.
Future plans for the costume include detailing the body suit to be more accurate, however there is currently no time frame for this to be finished that I am aware of.
Please forgive the battle rifle, I needed to see how mobile I was while holding a weapon! In the meantime I have a very nice Mattock kit on the way.
Currently I am still looking for a good cheap pair of boots to sacrifice for this project. Other than that the costume is finished build-wise. I was able to go back and build the elbows and hand plates. The initial painting is done. Weathering will be next. Then the lights. I have some very nice LED strips which I need to plan to install so that should be fun.
I thought I'd update the description to help answer some questions, most of these have already been explained in my other "In Progress" images.
* The entire suit is constructed from mostly gray EVA foam mats (the kind that interlock and are used as flooring), 1/4 in. black construction foam, 3mm black construction foam, and a few 3mm styrene pieces were used as shaping supports along curved edges (so I wouldn't have to heat form), and also clear plexiglas for the visor.
* I did not use a heat gun at all for the foam, any curves were achieved with styrene glued along the edges. However, a heat gun was used for the visor which was heated and worked over a curved foam "buck" that I made.
* Paints used - Plasti-Dip Spray, Black (used as sealant/primer - must be very generous with coating to get best finish! It will get expensive so spread your build out!), RustOleum *Metallic* Charcoal Gray, Liquitex Crimson Red and Titanium White acyclic paints for the stripes. VHT Niteshades to tint the clear visor.
* All parts where cut using a scroll saw (not by hand)
* Many MANY areas like the chest were formed by beveling edges of small parts and gluing together (not stacking/layering thick foam sections on top of each other) The interior bevel gaps were filled with tiny beveled 1/2 in. foam strips to provide reinforcement for the parts.
* Invest in a scroll saw
* Some shapes and panel lines were made by actually cutting the larger foam part where the lines are and re-gluing it together, then running the end of the hot-glue gun or wood burning tool along the seam to create an industrial welded effect. Don't be afraid to cut up a large part into smaller areas and re forming! It looks way better than if you try to cut those lines by hand afterward.
* Areas like the Ab section started as one piece then were cut and offset by half the foam's thickness and re-glued to give the illusion that it was layered. By keeping it thin and not layering the thick foam mats over one another you get more curvature and a clean silhouette. THIN TO WIN