again a part with a lot of pieces the first five screenshots are again the pieces which are for the hip
i promissed that i make a few photos of this boosters well, these are a bit more complex as the others but base on the same technique
first i cut them out and build the single rings i also removed the tabs for the inside ring quite useless for me at the fourth photo you can see the final pieces because the sheets are designed for colored cardboard paper there are no tabs for the bottom piece where the peak as to be attached on so i just colored a little paper piece with black marker and glued it on top (you can see it at the left piece)
then i put some glue at the inside of the tube and put it on top of the inside ring after it's dry, i add the peak quite simple, if you know how it works
piece overview 1 as always, here are all pieces what you need for the hip
po2 again one of those problems when you work with normal paper to combine this pieces i just add a little tab at the backside and cut two lines into the base piece
po3 this one took me really long to figure out first i thought the smaller piece has to be attached to the hip base but that doesn't work because the black flat pieces where all the parts has to be attached fit exactly to the hip base so this was the only solution
i scratched the color where this pieces has to be combined
well, honestly, i don't know what i should write maybe i didn't realized that i'm finally done with this model.
it takes a horrible long time to build and sometimes i was about to give up, but after more than two month (effective building time) i can share this pictures with you
Fazit: the best decision was, to print the sheets on A3, because this model takes me to the limits and you should have a little bit more experience for this. the most parts are quite easy, but some pieces are hard as hell. you can see it in the "building process gallery"
specially the backpack was that part, that gives me more then one headache
but it was a challenge that I gladly accepted because this model is really unique and definitely an eyecatcher in every shelf ore something else.
the guys from "Just Paper" did a great job on this and if they ever decide to create an other one, i would build it too
IMPORTANT!! permission for upload given through NCsoft pls read this journal entry for more infos
the sheets are free and should remain so pls download and use them only for personal use otherwise i must remove them
Exteel & Sidewinder are trademarks & copyrights by NCsoft Model created by Just Paper
Hello again! It's been a while. Well, this is my version of the Medabot known as Rokusho. I made this because It was part of my childhood, and I saw the Metabee papercraft long ago, (I think the designer should be more known). Anyhow, I just couldn't resist making it.
in case of rebuild the big Sinanju Model from Paper-replika.com the next part for this awesome model The Beam-Rifle
like the Axe what i recently uploaded, it's also a redesign from the Playboy Sinanju version
the first two photos are showing the complete new scope (just if you wonder why there are numbers missing ) i build the scope that way because well, i mean it's a rifle not a sub-machine gun a rifle need a huge scope period
you can also see this little scope attachment the original plastic version has that too
i used some wires to combine the small pieces actually the whole piece is a pipe
IMPORTANT! to add the "shadow catchers" at the front and back you have to try out what diameter you need i calculated with different paperweights
the third photo shows the whole model with the numbers, just if there are still some questions about that
the fourth is a few hours later with some finished parts
and finally the finished weapon
about the sheets: because this time it's a recolored version the sheets are coming as pdf just click download at the top
the original design belongs still to playboy redesigned and recolored by me
IMPORTANT: THIS MODEL IS FREE AND SHOULD IT BE SO LET IT BE!
I accidentally hit the sword against something at the con and it has to be repainted....I feel kinda horrible since it was pretty deep and it now has to be repainted the whole thing, bc of the clear coat.
Sword was mostly made by ~Dionysus80. The blade is made out of wood planks glued together with an aluminum rod in the middle. Shaped with a belt sander. The hilt is made out of styrene, MDF, and the guard is made from tow casted plastic pieces. ~Dionysus80 made one side, then we made a mold and casted the two sides to make the whole guard. The other hilt pieces are lathed and the end one contains the battery and switch. Painted with automotive paint.
Collar is made out of expanded pvc and styrene, finished off with automotive paint
Anime: Saint Seiya: The Lost Canvas Character: Alone (Hades) made by: and
after one year of papercraft my tool collection growed a bit meanwhile i got a lot more stuff and i wanna share it with you
bottom, from left to right: -a normal cutter for rougher steps -a precise cutter for fine steps -my good old freaking sharp scissor from the drug store -a flat tweezer to fold bigger edges and taps -a thin tweezer to fold fine edges and taps, also to remove the glue -the tweezer what i used the most time to press the taps together, very efficient because of the angle and the flat ending
-steel cords to put small amounts of glue on the taps, meanwhile i have two of them, a long and a short one, i found this pieces on the street, these things normally are from the bristle of a street cleaning machine sometime they broke and lay on the street i cleaned and polished them that the glue don't stick
top, from left to right -some chains, i used them to get some weight into the models that they stand on there own -yes, Allen keys, i use them as weight and to reach some places inside of a model -some cross tweezers, very handy, specially when you have to glue some rings ore don't have the modd ore/and time to hold the pieces -some woodsticks, as contrast to the q-tips, much more better, because the glue stick and hold on them. they are also very usefull to get some distance for "flying parts" ore as a stabilization at the inside of a model -two steel ruler, one long and one with some curves -and at least a pencil