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Well here's the template for the cibi umbreon. I was really fun to make. The only problem the tail for some reason I couldn't get it to work the way I wanted. So sorrry about that. Next papercraft I do shall be an espeon requested by ~midnightblue78 hopefully it turns out ok.


pokemon belongs to Nintendo
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Here are a 1:1 (ideal for cosplay) and 1:5 papercraft patterns of the Captain America shield. You can find the files at [link] including PDO and Blender files.

There are two 1:1 versions, one with the texture showed in the picture and another without texture so you can paint it.

The 1:1 versions are big papercrafts, you must cut the margins using the line guides in the corners, then join them to complete the pattern. Paste the model to bigger cardboard sheets to make it stronger.
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This is a papercraft web shooter based on the Live Action 1977 The Amazing Spider-man TV Series starring Nicholas Hammond.

This a two part file, please download the zip for the second part plus instructions.
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This is my cute little Owlowiscious from the tv show "My Little Pony!" His head even rotates :)

I created him using a papercraft pattern made by RocketmanTan ([link]).

Isn't he just adorable?! ^_^
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I decided to make a Freckle brush for Photoshop, since those are really hard to paint freehand.

I also made an example image, consisting of two layers:

1. the base colours
2. a second layer with the blending mode set to Linear Light.

I used both dark and light colours for the freckles which gives this really nice effect! I hope you enjoy the brush and if you do use it, you could credit me with a link back to this post!
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Now an unlocked version of the IRONMAN HELMET is included in a zip with other parts of the suit at [link] you can see what's in the zip here

The helmet is fully functional, it is a high detailed papercraft based on a laser scanned model found at [link] . It's part of my MARK III and MARK IV Cosplay suit.

Here are a few tips to build it right:
1. You can use a different material for the eyes, I have used the bottom of a disposable plate.
2. There are two little cones where you might install two 3volt high intensity leds, and place two AA batteries between the eyebrows.
3. Leave some gaps between the eyes and above of them so you can see through them, it's not much but you can see through "scanning". And be sure there is no light reflected from the leds back to your eyes or you wouldn't see anything at all.
4. Use galvanized wire to build the sliders and screw them to the face using flat head screws, nuts and washers.
5. Install a magnetic lock behind the mouth for instant lock when the face fall in place.
6. Join all the (helmet's) nape parts using two paralell ribbons

To wear it slide the (helmet's) nape parts up, insert your head slowly watching your ears, once inside slide the (helmet's) nape parts down.

To open the face, lift and slide back.
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Lately I learned to make pepakura or paper craft of life size costume.
Learning 3D modeling + Pepakura designer = Awesome!

And this is the most important part for making Kamen Rider helmet, HELMET BASE! my old helmet base was suck so I've created a new one ;)
After printing the patterns, I copy it to craft foam, and then I modify and add some detail. For example Eternal helm, I just need to add a horn, eyes to the base then I paint it. It's pretty simple dude :)

download here…
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This papercraft is the Hellequin Mask, more precisely, the Elite version of the Hellequin Mask. While I love the Hellequin as character, I love the elite mask of her more than the normal version...and that is all because of the feather... that damn feather that took more hours in having to cut out all the pieces than the rest of the mask together!

More info can be found here: [link]

Model can be downloaded here: [link]
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Instructions for: [link]

Print this image at 7.5x10", meaning a normal sheet of paper with a 0.5" margin around the edges - if you want to use the same scale as most of Kna's images. I actually built this at half that scale. I think it's a bit more stable that way, but it won't fit with the rest of your ponies if you do :)

This is a rather complex construct, so I've included some lengthy instructions. I recommend waiting a few moments after each time you glue somthing, although how long you have to wait is up to the materials you use. For me, I'm using Elmers glue-all on a slightly thicker heavy duty laser printer paper. This stuff actually dissolves the paper a bit, so I get a solid connection in about 5 seconds.

Also, note that you WANT all the joints to be stiff, that way when you pose your pony it won't fall down. This may make the assembly a little more difficult, but the finished product will definitely be worth it.

Section 1: The Pieces
These items can be done in any order.

- Cut out the two brown pieces, shaped like the number 8 and a rectangle with a small oval to one side.
- Be sure to cut out the white circles in the center of the 8 shaped piece.
- Wrap the rectangular piece around it's side oval, glueing the tabs on the oval to secure it. This will result in a cylinder with one open flat face.
- Place the 8 shaped piece face-down with the crescent shaped edge marks on your right. Push the tabs from the cylinder through the top hole, glueing them to the white underside of the 8 shaped piece. The long tab should stick out as close to the crescent shaped hole as possible. Do not glue the longer tab, it exists for a special reason and should be left to hang out of the bottom of the hat.
- Fold over the 8 shaped piece, and glue it down so that it now resembles one brown O with a cylinder coming from one side. You should still be able to see inside the cylinder, but only one tab should be visible.
- You can leave the rim (O shaped portion) flat, or to mimic the show more closely, bend the front (section with the crescent cut) up, and the back down.
- Secure any holes with glue, try to place glue on the inside of the cylinder to keep a low profile.
- As a final step, and only if you feel the long tab coming from the bottom of the hat is too flimsy, you can line the white side fo the pin with glue and fold it over. So long as it still sticks out from the bottom of the hat, it will be able to serve it's purpose.

Front Legs, both at once:
- Cut out the two front leg pieces, all legs have many folds and are curvey in shape, and the front legs have no cutie mark.
- Begin with the piece with two fold lines, this is the easiest of the two.
- Fold back along both lines, glueing the tiny tab to the back of the piece on the other side. The final product will be shaped like the letter D from benieth.
- The lower front leg section requires one extra cut, along the line starting near the deep orange tab and running the opposite direction of most of the inside lines.
- Fold along the four paralell lines first, glueing the final rouned tab to the back of the first piece to create a rectangle shape.
- Now, you should close the lower end of the rectangle. To do this, put a bit of blue on the the tiny tab at the short end and fold it down, then fold the entire short end in so that the tiny tab is inside the rectangle.
- Take this opprotunity to seal any holes in the rectangle portion by placing glue on the inside of the rectangle. It will be difficult to reach inside after the next step.
- Now fold over the small orange tab, and turn it over the remaining white strip. Place a small bit of glue along the entire arch and connect the tab. This will result in a quarter circle that is sealed all along the perimeter.
- Now, you must find which upper leg goes with which lower leg. The quarter-circle shaped piece of the lower leg should fit inside the opening in the D shaped piece of the upper leg. A proper pair will have the flat side of the quarter circle on the bottom and the long tab of the upper leg on the same side.
- Once you find the right pair and while the two are fitted together, glue the long tab from the top leg to the outside of the bottom leg. This connection should be nearly invisible if you cut the upper leg carefully.

Back Legs, both at once:
- Cut out the back legs, being sure to remember or make a note of where the red line is. This is important later.
- Again, the top section is easier, so we will begin there. (The top is the part with the cutie mark)
- Begin by folding down the two long fold lines, the small tabs should not be folded.
- The long curved fin will be glued to the back of the leg along the curve flat, resulting in a triangular shape seen from the bottom. This is most easily done by putting a small strip of glue along the curve of the leg then laying and holding the curved tab in place until dry.
- Next, take the larger of the two tabs (the one that is not a square) and fold it in to cover a majority of the gap left in the previous step.
- You should make some effort to close the rest of the gap with glue, if not from the inside then be careful to smooth things out.
- Be sure to leave the single rectangular tab hanging out, it will be required to connect the leg sections.
- On the lower leg, fold the four long fold lines.
- Apply a small amount of glue to the final angled tab and affix it to the back of the first section, making a rectangle.
- Each side of the rectangular prism you just made has a bit of extra material at the bottom. Take the three shorter extra bits and fold them inward.
- Apply a small amount of glue to each, then fold the large tab down affixing it to all three.
- Take this opprotunity to trim any exess and seal any gaps in the lower back leg while the inside is still accessable.
- Finally, connect the two leg sections. This is the most difficult step of Section 1, so be sure you read it carefully before beginning. Apply glue to the colored side of the small tab left over on the upper leg and affix it to the inside of leg, on the side opposite the missing section. It is worth noting that this is where the red line pointed origionally, linking these two tab and leg section, to avoid confusion. The final leg should have a small jump in the shape, which is visible in any image of a pony on the internet or in the show.

Neck Section:
- The neck is just a smaller version of Kna's design. Begin by cutting out the shape.
- Now, beginning at the long flat end, connect the white tabs to the backs of the colored section nearby.
- Turn the four side tabs inward so that they are touching.
- Fold the long tab down along the two dark fold lines, so that the long section hovers over the four tabs.
- Place a small amount of glue on the four tabs and hold down the long section from the previous step. The result will be a solid rectangular box with an elongated crescent shaped opening at the bottom.
- The opening may have some rough edges from imperfect connections along the curves. Be sure to trim the opening to be smooth.

Pins, all at once:
- These tabs aren't the easiest concept to grasp. I myself took quite a while to figure out how it would work after making the first one (Which for the record was my 3rd completely different attempt to make somthing that does what these pins do)
- Cut out all the rectangular pieces. One is yellow, the rest orange.
- Each piece must be folded in half and glued long ways, so that the colored sections are shown out.
- Beginning at the end with the shortest fold length, make a fold along the first line so that the white side cannot be seen, and glue.
- Repeat the previous step with the 2nd fold line.
- Make a fold at the center of the tab, where the opposite side is colored. The result will be a T shape. Then fold the long side of the T so that the top of the T shape is on the colored side.

- Cut out the tail piece, making sure not to cut off the rectangle at one tab end. The tail is the larger of the two crescent shaped yellow pieces, and is recognizable due to the rectangular tab at once end.
- Both halves must be treated carefully, not only so that the small connection between them does not break, but because they must be exact copies of each other in order for the fold to occur correctly.
- On both halves, bend the slit tabs slightly so that the white portion is underneith the yellow on the other side of the gap. Glue in this position, being careful to line up the edge of the two yellow sections. Both of these connections should result in a popping up of the colored side of the paper.
- Place a small amount of glue on the tied-off end of the tail (one of the sections that is opposite the red band), and fold the tail in half, making sure to line up the sections. This will only glue the end.
- Next, address the flank end of the tail. Fold each side along the dotted line outward, so that the white sides form one flat plane.
- Fold over the rectangular piece so that it is on top of each halves white section, and glue it in this position, sealing the two halves together.
- The rectangular piece will require some trimming, which is why it is being done now, while the tab can be put flat on a table to cut.
- Both sides of the tail will need to be sealed with small amounts of glue. The longer arc is easier to seal, so begin there. Simply apply glue to the curve and then hold in place until the glue dries. This will take a bit, but the result is much cleaner than clamping the curve with tweezers.
- The lower curve is quite difficult to seal, and in fact will require you to either spend an absorbant amount of time connecting the dots one at a time, or accept that the tail will not be as poofy as possible in the final version.

Hair Top:
- Cut out the hair outline, and cut out the circle near the center of the piece. If you are unsure if your hole is large enough, take a tab and attempt to fit the thin end through. It should just barely fit.
- Fold and glue the tip of the hair over, resulting in the forward most tip of the hair being double-sided.
- Bend the hair outward, so that the triangular tabs are underneith the colored section, and glue in place. The result should pop out toward the colored side.
- Be sure the glue completely dries before releasing these two tabs. This shallow connection has very little to hold it in place one you leave.

Hair Pony Tail:
- These instructions are exactly the same as the instructions for the tail section, with the exception of any steps regarding the rectangular tab on the flank end of the tail. The hair will naturally flair to one side. Do not worry about this.

- Cut out the face. This is the disk with the eyes. Be careful not to cut off the eyelashes. You can leave the three attached with white space in between, or seperate them, depending on how daring you are.
- Three additional cuts are required, each on one side of the white triangles. I prefer to do the two bottom cuts on the inside and the top cut on the right, however what side you pick ultimitely does not matter.
- Next, bow out the face so that the colored side rises up by glueing these three tabs to the back side of the colored section next to them.

- Cut out the mouth piece, and place an extra cut on one side of each white triangle piece.
- Bend each tab so that the white section is underneith the colored section next to it, and glue it in place.
- The result of doing this for all three tabs will be a snout that pops out on the colored side.

Section 2: The Head
These items must be done in this order.

- First, collect the face you made earlier, and the long strip with tabs on either side.
- Cut out the long strip, including the circle near one end.
- First, make an extra cut on one side of each white triangle, and use this tab to push up the colored section, just as you've done already a few times in this project.
- Next you will be making the connection between the main head piece and the face. This is a rather tedious step, easily the most annoying of section 2, but keep with it and it will turn out fine.
- Begin by finding the pins opposite the cut circle, and connecting them to the bottom rim of the back of the face piece. Glueing these in place should result in the cut circle being under the center of the face.
- Next, connect the pins on the face side one at a time to the back of the face, making sure each is secure in the proper location before moving on to the next.
- Once you have connected the final pin, you must use the long tab at the end of the head strip to close the head, resulting in a cylinder with an angled edge.

Skull Cap:
- The skull cap is the orange near-perfect circle piece. Cut this out.
- This circle is slightly ovaloid, but there is no clear up. In order to find the way it must fit, simply hold it over the head piece you just built. How well you fit the head piece will determine the perfect angle.
- Next, turn all the tabs on the head piece inward, so that there appears to be a broken white ring around the opening in the back of the head.
- Place a small amount of glue on each white tab, and place the skull cap circular piece over all the tabs. Try to reduce any white space resulting from the circular piece being too small, however you may have the circular piece overhang.
- Trim any exess of the circular piece, your head should now be solid, with the exception of a small hole on the bottom where the neck will connect.

- Attaching the main hair piece is relatively simple if you read these steps before beginning.
- First, the yellow tab should be fed though the hole in the hair from behind, so that the long section is on the colored side.
- Next, place the hair so that the rounded tab near the pin covers the entirety of the round skull piece, and the two points created by the folding of the hair piece rest on the top rim of the round skull piece.
- Once you see how this fits (and it should be quite snug), lift the hair and place a small bead of glue along the top half of the rim of the round skull piece. The bottom and center of the round skull piece should not be glued, and the glue should only be on the round piece and not the cylinder.
- Place the hair back in it's nested position, and wait until the glue dries. The front portions of the hair will be sticking up at this point. Also, after a few moments, be sure the yellow pin can spin freely and is not stuck down by exess glue.
- Once the hair is stuck in position, trim away any exess hair around the base of the circular skull cap.
- Finally, use very small amounts of glue to secure the front hair sections to the sides of the head. It is important to wait until the glue from the previous steps dry to prevent any shifting in the model.

- First, place the ponytail on the table so that the darker lines go from the red band (down) to the top-left side. If the lines go to the top right, flip the pony tail over. The side that is now facing you will be refered to as the 'under side'.
- Place a small amount of glue on the white side of the yellow tab protruding from the back of the head, and attach it to the under side of the pony tail. The pony tail should completely cover the hole the tab comes out of, but only barely. If you are unsure where to place the pony tail, tape it down with some weak tape and spin the pin to see if it covers properly.

- Proper placement of the mouth is mostly practice, so don't be afraid to dry fit (no glue) a few times until you see where it looks appropriate. You do not want it to cover either eye, but it should be close.
- Fold the white tab of the mouth piece inward, and put a small amount of glue on it and the rim of the mouth piece.
- Place the mouth piece on the face, under the eyes and between the freckles. It should not cover either eye.

Folding the Ears:
- First, fold each ear. Kna has a guide on how to do this with images, however this guide will describe how to do it slightly differently. You must decide which you will follow.
- First, cut each ear out. You must also remove the two orange tabs from one side of the ear. It does not matter which side.
- Fold the ears in half and glue, so that the tabs are orange on one side and white on the other, but the other portion is orange on both sides.
- Once the fold is dried, make another fold across the large section and between the two tabs. This fold should not be complete, but rather bend the ear so that it is in a steep C shape. It is important to notice that the two tabs should be orange on the inside of the bend, and white on the outside of the bend.
- Next, turn the two tabs inward so they overlap eachother, and glue them together. The resulting finished ear should be a sharp C shape, lying on its side, with a base made of the two flat tabs.

Placing the Ears:
- This requires a bit of artistic flair, but I will lay down some basic guidelines.
- The ears will be connected by glueing the flat side of the connected tabs to the side of the head.
- The ears should not extend past the flat back of the head, or else they will get in the way of the hat.
- The ears should be placed on the hair, not so high that the yellow of the hair can be seen under them, and not so low that the edge of the hair cuts the ear in half.
- The ears should be tilted slightly back, so that if viewed from directly in front of the face a small portion of the inside of the curve is visible.
- The ears should be even.
- One ear on the left, one on the right. And with that final bit of knowledge, place your ears.

- Placing the neck is the most difficult part of Section 2. Read carefully before beginning.
- Take one of the orange tabs, and cut the long section to roughly half length.
- Next, grab the now shortened end of the tab with your tweezers. You won't want to let go.
- Tilt down the top of the pin so that it is flat, and push it through the hole at the bottom of the head.
- Pull back on the pin, maneuvering it so that the T unfolds inside the head. The pin should no longer be able to be pulled completely out, but it CAN fall in. Try not to lose it!
- Now, place a small amount of glue on the white side of the tab, and affix it to the colored half of the back of the neck piece. The back is the side that has the hole in it.

Hat Hole:
- There's a small line above the pony tail hole in the hair. Now that the head is assembled, you're going to have to cut that out completely. Hope you have a sharp knife.

Section 3: The Body
These items must be done in this order.

The Body:
- First, cut the body shape out, including the five internal circles. The body should be the only piece left, and resembles an apple with a long spiked stem.

- The tail could be done after the spine, but for the sake of stability it is done first. If you find the spine too difficult, you can remove the tail and re-try it after the spine. It is much more likely to fall out after that though.
- Simply fold the two tabs at the end of the tail inward, so that they are close enough to fit through the hole in the oval section of the body.
- Once it is through the hole, re-flatten the tabs so they can no longer fit through the hole.

Back Legs:
- First, find out which leg is which. You can tell because the knees of each leg only bend in one way - back.
- Once you decide which leg is which, putting them in is simple. First, take a peg and put it in the rear (near the tail) hole so that the long end sticks through to the colored side.
- Glue the white side of the tab to the back of the leg. You should try to place the bend in the tab, and the center of the circle, next to the top apple in Applejack's cutie mark.

Front Legs:
- Tiny bit more complicated, but you still start by picking which leg is which. Once again, the knees only bend the right way.
- Take a peg and put it in the front hole so that the long end sticks through to the colored side.
- The long end of the tab will fit inside the upper portion of the leg, so to make sure it does not interfere with the knee, bend the leg so far that the entire knee assembly comes out.
- Glueing the pin in place is mildly difficult only beacuse it is difficult to see where the appropriate spot is. You want to apply glue to the white side of the tab, and secure it so the bend in the tab, and the center of the circle, is approdimately in the center of the arc on the top of the front leg.

- This is not only the most difficult part of section 3, but of the project as a whole. Before going on, make sure all four legs and the tail can spin freely. This is your last chance to correct any glueing mistakes.
- There are a very small number of tabs on the spine, because they easily get in the way of the pin backs for the legs and tail.
- Your first task is to connect the pins one at a time, staggering them so you do one on one side then the same one on the other. Once you get to the end, be sure the legs still spin freely or you will have to go back and fix things. Please try to avoid pony surgery.
- Last step: Secure the big gaps on each side with a little glue-and-hold. Once again, be sure all the legs can spin freely. If you accidentally glue one of them you will have to cut open the spine to unglue it.

- Last step, I promise :)
- You will want to put this in place with no glue first, to see how it sits.
- Place a small amount of glue around the main body, forward of where the front legs are. You will want to get some on both sides and the front of the spine.
- Slide the front side of the body into the hole in the neck piece, making sure that the neck and legs point different directions. Seems fairly obvious, but I made the mistake once. You will want the angle between the pony's back and the neck to be roughly 90* (square).
- Hold in place until the glue begins to hold.

Section 4: Party
These items can be done in any order.

- Yay.
- Pin the tail on the pony.
- Dancing.
- Bobbing for Gummy.
- Muffins.
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