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Accessories competition by *Janes-Wardrobe:iconJanes-Wardrobe:


©2007-2008 *Janes-Wardrobe
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Submitted: January 4, 2007
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Here is my submission for the HistoricCostumes accessories competition.

It is a medieval purse, based on an original find which is published in 'Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450' by Elizabeth Crowfoot, Frances Pritchard & Kay Staniland
Publisher: Boydell & Brewer/Museum of London

The original was made in half silk velvet and has a tablet woven 'handle' I prefer to call it a purse string.

My version is made from cotton brocade which would have been available in England in the 14th and 15th centuries but would have been a high status fabric which is why I've chosen it for a purse. The tablet woven purse string was worked by me in cotton pearl embroidery thread in three shades of blue to compliment the purse. The description of the original led me to believe it was worked directly onto the edges of the purse over the raw edges of the fabric. This allows for a narrow, yet strong seam where no raw edges are exposed. The purse is lined in with a paler blue linen. The tassels are simple knots in the warp ends of the weaving, the third tassel has been made the same way from left over warp threads, the threads divided, fanned and sewn to either side of the purse so that there is no face or reverse to the purse.

The close ups show the reverse and face of the tablet weaving and the centre tassle, the quality of the close ups isn't brilliant. If I can reduce camera shake I'll update the picture.

Costs:
Linen lining - left over scraps from a kirtle £7.99/metre 60" wide I used about 3"x8" about 8p
Brocade - left over scraps from a gown. Bargain from the market £5/metre 60" wide same quantity = about 5p
Tablet braid = 3 balls of cotton pearl thread purchased as end of line at 50p per ball = £1.50
Sewing thread from stock.
Total costs £1.63
I'm not sure what the exchange rate is but at $1.8 to the £1 that's a really expensive purse of $2.93 :)

For reference of the stye of medieval purses that are similar to my purse I have attached some links.
Unfortunately my copy of the textiles book is in storage so I am unable to add a picture here, I did study the description at length some time ago and decided tht I must try to make the purse with the tablet woven purse string attached during weaving.
Here are some examples of purses in a market,from the Manesse Codex paintings, produced between 1300 and 1315. [link]
This one is 1400-1500 and has more similarities to the one I used for inspriration.[link]
This one is an example of an italian brocade purse made of silk, linen and cotton. [link]
You can just make out the purse on this tomb effigy. [link] , a little larger in this picture [link]
These are more purses of similar shapes and sizes dating from 1200-1300. [link]
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~wandering-dreamer:iconwandering-dreamer: Jan 4, 2007, 3:04:22 PM
I really like the colors and the desing, which is weird for me since I don't normally like purses. I hope you do well in the competition!

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*Janes-Wardrobe:iconJanes-Wardrobe: Jan 5, 2007, 9:42:54 AM
Thank you very much. :)
~MegamiJadeheart:iconMegamiJadeheart: Jan 18, 2007, 6:30:55 PM
That's a beautiful purse ^_^ (Made one of the same style for my gown a while back, but yours looks better)

I love the hand woven purse string. The colors really go well with the brocade, and the weave is lovely (such patience!) The tassels are the perfect finishing touch ^_^

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*Janes-Wardrobe:iconJanes-Wardrobe: Jan 19, 2007, 9:17:32 AM
Thank you. :)
Using the weft to sew the purse string onto the purse while using it to weave was the biggest challenge, I'm glad the purse is small.:D
The rest of the weaving is a really simple repeat and only took about an hour and a half. Threading the tablets takes ages though :(
~MegamiJadeheart:iconMegamiJadeheart: Jan 20, 2007, 9:47:21 PM
That sounds like a pain, certainly ^^, but the result is fantastic, and you don't ever have to worry about the stitching coming undone and loosing your purse ^_^

I've never tried any form of weaving, so even a "simple" weave is amazing to me. I can imagine it would take a long time to set up the warp threads though. Is tablet weaving much different from using a loom? (please pardon my ignorance on this matter ^^,)

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*Janes-Wardrobe:iconJanes-Wardrobe: Jan 21, 2007, 12:01:27 PM
Tablet weaving is completely different from using a loom. The warp threads are threaded through holes in a series of cards (tablets). In this case I used four hole cards (they are the most commonly found form). This braid (ribbon) is made using 12 tablets. It is commonly referred to as a braid although it is technically a weave. In medieval times the warps were tied between two upright poles and worked sitting on a stool. It can be worked by a 'backstrap' method, where one end is tied to something - like for example a door handle and the other end is tied to your belt. I find the medieval method more convenient because I can walk away from it and come back later!
On a loom a heddle forms the 'shed' (which is where the weft passes through) in Tablet weaving it is the tablets that form the shed. The heddle is moved to lift or lower a series of threads to allow the weave. In tablet weaving it is turning the tablets that changes the position of the warp threads to allow the weave.
I hope I haven't confused you more... In the USA tablet weaving s often referred to as card weaving. There are quite a number of publications on the method, there is probably something on the internet if I've whetted your appetite... :D
~MegamiJadeheart:iconMegamiJadeheart: Jan 21, 2007, 3:09:15 PM
I think I understand the basic layout from what you've said. I definitely plan on looking into this more ^_^ It sounds fascinating, and I love both handwork crafts and woven trim ^_~ I'll see if I can find something to help me get set up and walked through the basics.

Thank you so much! ^_^

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~Laerad:iconLaerad: Jan 30, 2007, 11:25:42 AM
I am really impressed by the tablet weaving. I know the purse, I have the same book... Great job !
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